Oil Drain Plug Gaskets Source and Type MR41
#1
Oil Drain Plug Gaskets Source and Type MR41
It is just a small thing, but it is nice to have them around. The oil drain plug gasket is used on various brands. It is a hybrid type of O-ring known as the MR41.
Here is a link to a supplier on USA eBay: Set of 10 - MR41 Metal Rubber Oil Drain Plug Gasket/Washer for Various Vehicles
Note that the very early vehicles use a different gasket which appears to be an Aluminum crush washer much like a Honda car.
Here is a link to a supplier on USA eBay: Set of 10 - MR41 Metal Rubber Oil Drain Plug Gasket/Washer for Various Vehicles
Note that the very early vehicles use a different gasket which appears to be an Aluminum crush washer much like a Honda car.
#3
The VERY early original 1997-98 XJ/XK used a drain plug (13mm hex) with a renewable rubber seal insert.
We just replaced the rubber seal for the oil change.
I still have a few seals in the original poly bag.
Later drain plugs were still 13mm hex but came complete with a larger rubber seal.
Even later drain plugs were complete with seal but 16mm hex.
A drain plug was renewed EVERY oil change when I worked at the dealer but the seal and plug should last through a few changes if the plug is SNUGGED and not torqued to 'arm wrestler tight'.
The original Jaguar drain plug should have a groove at the sealing base for a rubber ring seal.
We just replaced the rubber seal for the oil change.
I still have a few seals in the original poly bag.
Later drain plugs were still 13mm hex but came complete with a larger rubber seal.
Even later drain plugs were complete with seal but 16mm hex.
A drain plug was renewed EVERY oil change when I worked at the dealer but the seal and plug should last through a few changes if the plug is SNUGGED and not torqued to 'arm wrestler tight'.
The original Jaguar drain plug should have a groove at the sealing base for a rubber ring seal.
The following 3 users liked this post by motorcarman:
#4
Why mess with drain plugs and gaskets?
I haven't bothered with those for years, since I installed a Fumoto drain valve.
Depress and push a small lever and the valve opens. Push it back and the valve closes. You just can't get any simpler than that.
I have had these on all my cars for many years without any problems. I don't recommend many things, but this one I recommend.
They even have one with a nipple that allows you to attach a hose. You can drain the oil directly into a waste container, no drain pan needed. Clean and easy.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/
I haven't bothered with those for years, since I installed a Fumoto drain valve.
Depress and push a small lever and the valve opens. Push it back and the valve closes. You just can't get any simpler than that.
I have had these on all my cars for many years without any problems. I don't recommend many things, but this one I recommend.
They even have one with a nipple that allows you to attach a hose. You can drain the oil directly into a waste container, no drain pan needed. Clean and easy.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/
The following users liked this post:
zray (11-22-2020)
#5
The VERY early original 1997-98 XJ/XK used a drain plug (13mm hex) with a renewable rubber seal insert.
We just replaced the rubber seal for the oil change.
I still have a few seals in the original poly bag.
Later drain plugs were still 13mm hex but came complete with a larger rubber seal.
Even later drain plugs were complete with seal but 16mm hex.
A drain plug was renewed EVERY oil change when I worked at the dealer but the seal and plug should last through a few changes if the plug is SNUGGED and not torqued to 'arm wrestler tight'.
The original Jaguar drain plug should have a groove at the sealing base for a rubber ring seal.
We just replaced the rubber seal for the oil change.
I still have a few seals in the original poly bag.
Later drain plugs were still 13mm hex but came complete with a larger rubber seal.
Even later drain plugs were complete with seal but 16mm hex.
A drain plug was renewed EVERY oil change when I worked at the dealer but the seal and plug should last through a few changes if the plug is SNUGGED and not torqued to 'arm wrestler tight'.
The original Jaguar drain plug should have a groove at the sealing base for a rubber ring seal.
Always thought it kind of nice that they used an engineering seal for the oil drain. The tightness of the plug is only to keep it from loosening not make the seal.
Curious if you have a part number for the two types of seals. I wonder if there is a Ford equivalent.
I have mixed feelings regarding the kits which create a tool-less drain valve. If something is kicked up and hits the regular plug, it would take a lot to break it. Something protruding, not so much force needed to break it off.
#6
The following 5 users liked this post by motorcarman:
CorStevens (11-22-2020),
crbass (12-06-2020),
Don B (11-22-2020),
kstevusa (11-22-2020),
sklimii (11-22-2020)
#7
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#8
Thanks for the clarifications. It was a friend in the UK who told me about the crush washer on his very early car.
Always thought it kind of nice that they used an engineering seal for the oil drain. The tightness of the plug is only to keep it from loosening not make the seal.
Curious if you have a part number for the two types of seals. I wonder if there is a Ford equivalent.
I have mixed feelings regarding the kits which create a tool-less drain valve. If something is kicked up and hits the regular plug, it would take a lot to break it. Something protruding, not so much force needed to break it off.
Always thought it kind of nice that they used an engineering seal for the oil drain. The tightness of the plug is only to keep it from loosening not make the seal.
Curious if you have a part number for the two types of seals. I wonder if there is a Ford equivalent.
I have mixed feelings regarding the kits which create a tool-less drain valve. If something is kicked up and hits the regular plug, it would take a lot to break it. Something protruding, not so much force needed to break it off.
#9
What kind of roads are you guys driving on?
If something could do that much damage do you really think that a drain plug vs drain valve will make a difference? The oil pan is a much larger target than a drain valve or plug.
If it's that bad you need a skid plate, a lift kit, and huge tires.
A drain valve is the least of your worries.
To each his own, I guess. I just love the drain valves.
If something could do that much damage do you really think that a drain plug vs drain valve will make a difference? The oil pan is a much larger target than a drain valve or plug.
If it's that bad you need a skid plate, a lift kit, and huge tires.
A drain valve is the least of your worries.
To each his own, I guess. I just love the drain valves.
#10
#12
Just ordered the Fumoto drain valve. Gotta try new things every so often. With the right receptacle it could eliminate the drain pan. Might use my boat oil change setup with a pump leading to a container.
The area is well protected under there, these cars do have enviable ground clearance and i avoid bad roads.
The area is well protected under there, these cars do have enviable ground clearance and i avoid bad roads.
#13
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: on the road in NE Oklahoma
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Z.
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CorStevens (11-24-2020)
#14
my Fumoto drain nipple doesn’t point straight down, so the ground clearance is not an issue with it. I attach a 3/8” ID clear hose to it with the other end going to my oil bucket that I take to recycling. Nothing much to clean up except the oil coming out when the filter is loosened. All in all, a very tidy oil change.
Z.
Z.
#16
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: on the road in NE Oklahoma
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https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/
#17
Thanks stu46h and zray, i looked at the chart and decided upon the one that zray originally linked to. I have a little electric oil change rig that was made for boats that neatly (zero chance of spill) fills any container with the waste oil. Having that hose nipple there is going make things very easy when i go garage-less for a few years.
#18
Thanks to Zray and Stu46h for suggesting the Fumoto drain valve. Installed it a few days ago, easy enough thing to do. Strongly recommend using a torque wrench and crowfoot with a short extension. These are obviously lubricated threads and some of us are members of the international association of people who like to over tighten things.
Looks like the next oil change is going to be very easy.
thanks again.
Looks like the next oil change is going to be very easy.
thanks again.
#19
Anyone using the Stahlbus version of this? I've been looking at this one for a while. More expensive, but no external hangy bits, and positive quick connect-type connector. Not clear this makes any difference in practice, however.
https://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drai...et.html?type=N
https://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drai...et.html?type=N