Hi - I performed the ABS repair yesterday on original module, having same issues as well as speedo not working and e-brake light illuminated, only codes are P1637 and P1000 (but have had P1000 and CEL for a while now) . All pins look good. Tried the hard reboot as it seemed it couldn't hurt. Checked all fuses. Have uninstalled and reinstalled ABS unit. Have cleared codes with my code reader.

Any other ideas I can try?? Thanks in advance.


Is there a DIY procedure or is this a reflash that has to be performed at the dealer?

 

Update: After the re-install of the ABS module I am getting the following codes:

P1637
P1000
P1175
P1165
P1137

Question: It seems that the majority perform this fix and everything works perfectly. Of the repairs that don't work out, it seems this is the problem most of the time. Do we know what causes this failure? What is the function of the solder joints we are repairing? Will too much heat or too much solder cause this failure to occur? Just trying to understand what went wrong.

Also it seems the fix to this problem is unbending a pin or two, re-flashing the ABS module, or admitting defeat and purchasing a new ABS module. My pins all look fine, and I'm a bit stubborn about admitting defeat...so can I go to my local mechanic for a re-flash as I don't own this equipment, and is there anything I should say or be aware of to make the experience less painful? (Mechanics make me feel stabby ). Thanks!

 

Those are not ABS codes, which start with C. Unless you have Autoenginuity or similar, you can not read ABS codes.

 

I've moved your post to a new thread - you'll get more help than by tagging onto an old one.
P1637 = CAN ECM to DSCCM network malfunction
P1175/1165/1137 don't exist.

I'd suspect a solder bridge or other electrical problem in the ABS unit.

 

Thank you!

By "solder bridges" do you mean excess solder is connecting things that should not be connected? I'll open it back up. Also I used the RTV that "smells like vinegar" - would that cause problems like this?

 

Yes, a gob of solder shorting adjacent tracks.
Using the acid cure silicone on electrics is a bad idea.
You can get neutral cure easily in the US.
Try just disconnecting the ABS module + see what fault codes you get.

 

Found it!! The "teeth" ??? on this contact point were spread apart, either they blew apart or I bumped it when I had the module open. Gently pushed them back together and 1637 message has cleared.

 

The photo is not clear enough for me to tell, but if that is a surface mount component lead that detached it will need to be resoldered. If it is just 'touching' it will become intermittant.

 

The first time in a very long time I have no error lights on dash!

 

I did resolder, but if if the problem resurfaces I will know where to look first. Now if I can get my 6-disc worm gear to stay put my car will be issue-less.

 

Good stuff, nice to see a problem solved.