XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

P0300 P0303 P0304 P1316

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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 12:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by CA Jag
Meaning they could be a part of the rough running? Yes if skipped one tooth, but JagV's car ran smoothly sometimes. I bought a 2000 w/o knowing these cars. Now have to plan for 4k for replacing tensioners. Not an immediate must do (no chain slap or noise at idle) but still a big ticket item. Also having rough idle/warning lights problem. May fix and sell mine then look for a 2003-2006
Whether or not you do them right away is up to you of course,,, I am not the alarmist type I promise you. Even IF you don't do them right off (do you do your own work) you can just take off the valve covers to get a sense of what you have under there. I would - I know that today - didn't at first.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 01:02 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Jagvert2000
Car delivered to me by transport company with low battery voltage and lots of related issues.
I have spent hours trying to figure out what I am facing
After bringing battery up with charging, the best it seems to hold is 12.25 volts.
I am able to get what I think is "normal" function of car electrical now....but not sure.
Car starts and runs fairly well, but I have been unable to get the check engine light to clear so I am not driving it much except to get it OBD checked.
First effort to get it checked failed....closest to me auto parts place could not get its reader to read the car at all. Next closest handed me the reader (due to COVID) and I connected it to diagnostic port.
Their reader was an INNOVA 5210. What came up on screen was "Global OBD2 Jaguar" and in red letters: P0300(1/6)Stored In black letters thereafter: Random Misfire Detected DTC Severity 2 of 3. Repair immediately if drivability issues.
Then in red letters: P0301(2/6) Stored. In black:Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected. Then in red letters P0303(3/6)Stored. In black: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected; Then in red: P0304(4/6)Stored. in black: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected; In red: P1316(5/6)Stored.in black: Misfire Rate Exceeds Emissions. Then P1000(6/6)Pending In black:OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete.
I have no experience with readers or even whether I got all that I was supposed to from the diagnostic tool. I have reviewed posts, but don't see a clear path to diagnosis or even if I have a valid test.
I would be most appreciative if anyone has suggestions or can point me in the right direction.
Thanks,
I've seen many messages about not being able to read P codes. Had the same problem using an Innova 2100 (known to work). Checked for power
(fuses ok, reader powered up), cleaned pins, wiggled wire harness various places, etc, etc. I spent hours (days) trying to solve the problem. My indie (using Jag ssd) had no problems pulling both P and CAN2 codes. Very good shop. Got multiple P codes for misfire. Got CAN for defective ABS module. Disconnected it. Car now starts and idles smoothly. Are 2003-2006 cars more reliable? Shop recommends (also better engine and 6 speed MBZ trans).
 
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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 01:54 PM
  #23  
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Thanks, good suggest. If plastic looks ok, then I've got some time. Also, based on no noise at start or cold idle, I don't have to do it immediately. However do think they need to be done at some point. No, I don't do my own work anymore for multiple reasons. I can't see doing just the upper set because they are more likely to fail than bottom set. There's a nice 2006 convertible at local dealers for 10k. Higher mileage than I'd like (94K) but full service history.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 04:15 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by CA Jag
Thanks, good suggest. If plastic looks ok, then I've got some time. Also, based on no noise at start or cold idle, I don't have to do it immediately. However do think they need to be done at some point. No, I don't do my own work anymore for multiple reasons. I can't see doing just the upper set because they are more likely to fail than bottom set. There's a nice 2006 convertible at local dealers for 10k. Higher mileage than I'd like (94K) but full service history.
More I was meaning - see if the tensioners have already been upgraded to the new ones with the steel/alloy bodies. If you see pumpkin pie looking plastic as the bodies for the uppers my suggestion would be to change them ASAP and to not drive much or at all until you do. It's a worl of hurt (so I hear) if and when they let go at the wrong time. And it's always the wrong time.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 07:14 PM
  #25  
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Thanks. I doubt they've been replaced. Jag guy quoted me 2,500 for the uppers. Am surprised he didn't recommend all 4. This a must?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 07:45 PM
  #26  
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Default Intermittent problems continue

Sorry for not keeping this situation current. The weather here was exceptionally cold for a couple weeks and I did nothing with the car but keep it on battery tender. I did purchase a new battery which I believe I reported in an earlier post. Since that time, the car has has few outings as I don’t trust it. I purchased a Foxwell NT 630plus code reader and pulled a code PO 442 evaporative system leak; P1637 & P1643. CAN link ECM/ABSCM circuit network malfunction; Fuel pump circuit monitor low input is what the cost de reader is suggesting. The antifreeze coolant plastic reservoir was found to be empty upon visual inspection although no light or warning displayed specific to that.
I am at a loss. No local to me Jag mechanic found as of this writing and I haven’t the time now to figure things out.
 

Last edited by Jagvert2000; Mar 16, 2021 at 08:07 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 09:29 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CA Jag
Are 2003-2006 cars more reliable? Shop recommends (also better engine and 6 speed MBZ trans).
The 4.2L cars have the ZF 6HP26 transmission, which, thus far, has been more reliable than the 5HP24 in the normally-aspirated 4.0L cars, especially when properly maintained and with the latest firmware update. The supercharged 4.0L cars have the Mercedes-Benz W5A580/722.6, which has been pretty reliable aside from some known issues such as conductor plate failure. The 5HP24 is known for A-drum cracks and other failures. The Transgo pressure control valve upgrade can forestall or prevent drum failure if installed when the transmission is still healthy.

The 4.0L and 4.2L engines seem to be similar in reliability when well maintained and known issues are addressed (4.0L plastic timing chain tensioners) and minor problems are addressed before they become serious problems.

Originally Posted by CA Jag
Thanks, good suggest. If plastic looks ok, then I've got some time. Also, based on no noise at start or cold idle, I don't have to do it immediately.
You can't really assess the condition of plastic tensioners without removing them. Several of our members have found cracks that could not be seen with the tensioners in situ. If you find that you have plastic tensioners, you should replace them.

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; Mar 16, 2021 at 09:33 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 10:04 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Jagvert2000
Since that time, the car has has few outings as I don’t trust it. I purchased a Foxwell NT 630plus code reader and pulled a code PO 442 evaporative system leak; P1637 & P1643. CAN link ECM/ABSCM circuit network malfunction; Fuel pump circuit monitor low input is what the cost de reader is suggesting. The antifreeze coolant plastic reservoir was found to be empty upon visual inspection although no light or warning displayed specific to that.
I am at a loss. No local to me Jag mechanic found as of this writing and I haven’t the time now to figure things out.
Hi Jagvert2000,

Here are the definitions and published possible causes of P1637 & P1638:



Problems with wiring, connectors and grounds are more common than module failures, so it would be worth checking and cleaning all the relevant connectors and ground points. The CAN wires are Yellow and Green pairs. The ABS Module connects to the Transmission Control Module by way of the Adaptive Speed Control Module, so the connectors at those modules and any connectors in between would be good places to inspect and clean. Cracked, starved and cold solder joints on the circuit board of the ABS Module are very common and can usually be cured by sawing the case apart, reflowing and supplementing all the solder joints, and gluing the cover back on.

See the diagram of the CAN on pdf page 131 of the Electrical Guide, which you can download at this link:

Jaguar X100 Electrical Guide 2002

Here the info for P0442. The most common cause is a loose gas cap or a worn gas cap seal, but there are several other possible causes:



Your instrument cluster/pack (IC or IP) should display a low coolant warning before the reservoir is completely empty. Your lack of a warning may be related to problems with your CAN, or with the coolant level sensor.

Cheers,

Don



 

Last edited by Don B; Mar 16, 2021 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 10:45 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CA Jag
You're lucky. Seller of mine never mentioned tensioners. Checked records. She knew.
just do the uppers, 2 hour $50 job

cracked primary guides = no problem, 99% of the time they fail with lots of warning
 
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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 10:57 PM
  #30  
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Thanks. May have to dust off my tools. I'm hearing the uppers more likely to fail. Even so, best to do all four?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 09:45 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by CA Jag
Thanks. May have to dust off my tools. I'm hearing the uppers more likely to fail. Even so, best to do all four?
Doing all four is a much bigger job than just doing the uppers, which is really easy. So since you don't have startup timing chain rattle, you could certainly just replace the uppers now. As xalty stated, you'll usually get plenty of warning when the primary guides develop problems, and you can plan other jobs at the same time (water pump, thermostat housing, crossover pipe, idler pulleys, front crank seal, etc.).

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; Mar 17, 2021 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 09:59 AM
  #32  
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Thanks for the feedback. Still learning here. When the uppers fail, it means engine damage right? If it's so easy, why do shops charge so much? zip tie is the quick around that they don't want to use?
What happens if the primary guides fail? Time to pull covers and check if uppers original or replace (metal).
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 10:16 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by CA Jag
Thanks for the feedback. Still learning here. When the uppers fail, it means engine damage right? If it's so easy, why do shops charge so much? zip tie is the quick around that they don't want to use?
What happens if the primary guides fail? Time to pull covers and check if uppers original or replace (metal).
Some shops will charge whatever they think you will pay. But just because the job is easy doesn't mean it is quick. It does take time to do the job properly and carefully, to avoid breaking brittle age- and heat-hardened plastic parts and wires, to clean oil out of the spark plug tubes (and replace the plugs if they're due), to clean the gasket mating surfaces thoroughly before reinstalling the cam covers with new gaskets, to properly torque the screws, to clean the MAFS while you have the intake pipe off, to clean all electrical connectors you have to disconnect, etc.

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; Mar 17, 2021 at 12:46 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 03:50 AM
  #34  
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Codes were P0300, P0303, PO305, PO308. Moved coils but cylinders 3,5 and 8 continued to misfire.
Replaced the ECU (which has the ignition module). Car is now drivable.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 09:11 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by CA Jag
Codes were P0300, P0303, PO305, PO308. Moved coils but cylinders 3,5 and 8 continued to misfire.
Replaced the ECU (which has the ignition module). Car is now drivable.
That's great news, CA Jag!

Let us know what you learn about your upper tensioners.

Cheers,

Don
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 07:26 PM
  #36  
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Car started misfiring again. Seller had recently installed 8 cheap, no name, coils. My indie replaced w/ Jag OEM's. End of problem. Lesson here is use high quality parts.

I drove for 1/2 hour today. Indie is going to do a 20 mile errand to make sure the problems are solved. That's customer service!

Problems solved with replacement ECU, Jag coils and rebuilt ABS module. Starts immediately, idles smoothly and drives well. Time for real gauges!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 11:34 PM
  #37  
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CA Jag,

Well done! Lessons learnt - beware the cheap replacement parts! This Forum has seen alot of them and some modern re-made parts seem really bad - the non-branded coolant expansion cap springs to mind.

Happy motoring.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2021 | 07:15 PM
  #38  
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Drove home today. Def a lot of fun to drive! It ran perfectly. Super smooth idle. No more warning lights/limp mode. My indie did a great job (even cleaned and washed the car). If you're in the Sacramento CA area, recommend Stewart's European Auto.
 
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