Car delivered to me by transport company with low battery voltage and lots of related issues.
I have spent hours trying to figure out what I am facing
After bringing battery up with charging, the best it seems to hold is 12.25 volts.
I am able to get what I think is "normal" function of car electrical now....but not sure.
Car starts and runs fairly well, but I have been unable to get the check engine light to clear so I am not driving it much except to get it OBD checked.
First effort to get it checked failed....closest to me auto parts place could not get its reader to read the car at all. Next closest handed me the reader (due to COVID) and I connected it to diagnostic port.
Their reader was an INNOVA 5210. What came up on screen was "Global OBD2 Jaguar" and in red letters: P0300(1/6)Stored In black letters thereafter: Random Misfire Detected DTC Severity 2 of 3. Repair immediately if drivability issues.
Then in red letters: P0301(2/6) Stored. In black:Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected. Then in red letters P0303(3/6)Stored. In black: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected; Then in red: P0304(4/6)Stored. in black: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected; In red: P1316(5/6)Stored.in black: Misfire Rate Exceeds Emissions. Then P1000(6/6)Pending In black:OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete.
I have no experience with readers or even whether I got all that I was supposed to from the diagnostic tool. I have reviewed posts, but don't see a clear path to diagnosis or even if I have a valid test.
I would be most appreciative if anyone has suggestions or can point me in the right direction.
Thanks,

 

Hi Ken,

Here's a summary of what you have reported:

P0300: Random misfires occuring (usually indicating misfires in multiple cylinders)
P0303: Misfire cylinder 3
P0304: Misfire cylinder 4
P1316: Misfires are so serious that damage to your catalytic converter may occur
P1000: Readiness monitors have not reset (this simply tells you that other DTCs are present, or the diagnostic emissions readiness monitors have not reset since the DTCs were cleared)

In addition to the many Possible Causes of your P0300 series codes shown on the chart in Post #2 of this thread, other possible causes include fuel contaminated with water and possibly low battery or alternator voltage. Before working through the list of possible causes, I would first try to determine why the battery will not charge to 12.6 volts. Once you have resolved that, work through the list of possible causes.

Since this thread was marked RESOLVED, I may move your post to start your own thread if you would like more assistance.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don. Yes on moving the post. I will get battery stress tested and spring for new battery if present one doesn’t pass.

 

Hi Ken,

I have moved your posts from the old RESOLVED thread and reproduce here the definitions and possible causes of your diagnostic trouble codes that were posted in that thread:

Cheers,

Don

 

Check (or change) battery
Check charging voltage
Change all spark plugs
Reset ECU and see if misfire are still there
Swap coils between cylinder 1 & 2 with those on cylinder 3 & 4
If misfire moves to 1 & 2 - change coils
If misfire still is on 3 & 4 - check wiring
Good luck!

 

NorXKR,
I checked battery and charging voltage. Battery voltage: 12.56; charging at 14.2
Previous owner had plugs and coils changed at 77K on Oct. 2019 according to documented service records provided to me by servicing center.
How do I reset ECU??
Thanks for your help!

 

I don't say this lightly, money matters - at least to me - mostly because I don't have a lot. Go, spend the 150-170 and get a new AGM battery and be done with it. Battery and charging problem with these cars cause all kinds of strangeness. It's a great investment.

To reset the ECU and most everything else, disconnect the positive and negative cables in the boot and clip them together over night. What I usually do on reconnect is hold (and I know it sounds strange) the negative cable to the CONNECTED positive terminal for 30 seconds then connect the negative cable (hopefully to your new battery.

Get an obd scanner off of Amazon. A simple scanner will do and maybe you can get a better scanner later... $$$. Ohhh money. This way, you can clear the codes. If they return, swapping around plugs and coils is the right and great suggestion.

 

PCM reset is unlikely to achieve anything useful (but is easy). Be sure never to do it if you have P1111 and smog (or equivalent) due.

 

Since my last post come on the battery was stress tested as good. Voltage typically at 12.75.
I examined the intake pathway for leaks. An aftermarket air filter installed by previous owner looks secure.
I took the car to local garage which cleared the codes and engine light. I left there driving in town at slow speed for less than a mile and parked the car. During this drive, engine ran smoothly and all seemed fine. Lacour set for approximately 40 minutes. I am restored in the car and immediately felt miss firing with rough idle lasting about 30 seconds before smoothing out. However, when I put the car in drive a red and then Amber low performance warning appeared. Once the light went away, I noticed smooth operation and no apparent misfires. I drove the car approximately 3 miles to our home with no misfire or engine rough running. I can start the car in my driveway and the engine idles smoothly and continues smoothly as idle is increased to higher rpm. I plan to get a new read of codes today to see if anything new shows up. Engine misfire occurs infrequently and does not last when it does occur. Perplexed with this!

 

Hi Ken,

One possibility that comes to mind is water in your fuel tank. If the level of water is low enough, the fuel pump may only be inhaling water periodically and briefly. It might be worth adding a couple of bottles of HEET fuel dryer to see if the misfires are resolved. A cheap fix if it works.

We'll be curious to learn whether the same codes have recurred or different ones have appeared.

Cheers,

Don

 

Codes picked up this morning show yesterday misfires triggered engine light due to misfires on cylinders 1,2&3. One side of engine! Appears to occur at startup of engine and doesn’t persist, but engine smooths out to proper engine firing.
I am now looking at causes that would affect the one side. I will get HEET additive as suggested.

 

Check and see if plugs in those cylinders are fouled...
Swap around a few coils while you're at it

 

Secondary timing chain tensioners are an elephant in the room, if they haven't been replaced yet.

 

JayJagJay,
Thanks for your suggestion.
I have had misfires per the OBD readers which have occurred in different cylinders. Previous owner changed plugs and coils less than 5K ago. Also, the misfires appear to occur only during startup and/or shortly thereafter and then all runs fine with no misfires per last more thorough OBD and engine diagnosis yesterday at a local shop. Unfortunately, they don't have the Jaguar diagnostics that would tell more about this intermittent misfire condition.
I placed fuel moisture HEET in the gas tank, re-examined the intake air path and sensor connectors. I also purchased a new AGM battery this morning as the battery I had installed tested at 12.45 this morning which was the first time it has tested so low since I received the car from the transport company on Feb. 2nd.
Because the engine runs smoothly more often than not, I suspect what is happening is an electrical or possibly fuel issue of short duration is causing the misfires that are triggering the engine light. BUT, I certainly don't have the experience and knowledge living and working with these cars that the members of this group have so all suggestions are most appreciated!

 

Yes, the cars previous owner replaced chain tensioner and timing chain damper, guide and sprocket. per the service invoice document I was able to get.
Thanks Jimmy for your input!

 

I don't mean to sound like an alarmist,,, it's just that misfires are much less easy to "feel" once the car warms and is running. Even though the PO changed the plugs 5k miles ago doesn't mean that due to the recent misfire problem that the plug(s) can't still end up gummed due to weak or not firing and the intermittent misfire problems you've been experiencing.

Also. Carefully inspect the 2? or 4? Wires to each coil for breakage and chaffing. Also make sure that the male connector spade/tab down inside the female connecttiin point on each coil has not bent off center, not inserting into the coil plug - lol, did that make any sense... Anyways - I've bent tabs like that in connectors.
One thing you can do while you work thru this issue is leave the plastic and largely decorative coil cover(s) off and even leave (maybe just on the offending coils) the coils unbolted from the valve cover until you have this sorted. Having to to pull all of the things you need to pull in order to check the coils and plugs can be a real pain. Leave things a little more accessible until the problem has been solved, is all I'm saying. Some may think that a bad idea, but that's just me.

 

Where is the resolved post. My problem is almost idetical

 

Hi Beerline123,

Jagvert2000 never reported back with his resolution.

What are the exact codes you've scanned and what diagnostics have you done so far?

Cheers,

Don

 

Meaning they could be a part of the rough running? Yes if skipped one tooth, but JagV's car ran smoothly sometimes. I bought a 2000 w/o knowing these cars. Now have to plan for 4k for replacing tensioners. Not an immediate must do (no chain slap or noise at idle) but still a big ticket item. Also having rough idle/warning lights problem. May fix and sell mine then look for a 2003-2006

 

You're lucky. Seller of mine never mentioned tensioners. Checked records. She knew.