I'm trying to install the Alpine AI net aux input box that goes between the alpine link cable from the changer & the headunit. I saw the reference to it on here so thought it would be pretty straight forward, but I hit an obstacle:

With the unit connected between the changer cable and the headunit port, the headunit still plays the CD changer and not the AUX rca inputs, which are connected to my ipod. The ipod cable definitely works, as I used it in my other vehicle previously.

Any ideas how to fix this? I could live without the changer even, just want my iphone to play

 

Since you have premium audio on your XKR, you should connect the AI-net box between the navigation unit and the power amp in the trunk. It will then override the radio, not the CD when you have an aux. signal. To do the CD, you would need to do a mod to the AI-net box.

 

Thanks for the tip! I hooked up the AI-net box in between the nav and amp in the trunk and ran a stereo RCA to the front and it works great.

Didn't think I'd need to rip half the interior apart to do this though!

 

It would be handy if you mention which AI net adapter you bought as it is confusing people.

I believe you bought the NVE-K200 which is different from the AI net adapter frequently mentioned in other posts.

Nobody ever mentioned the NVE-K200 but this is the small box with only an Aux input.

Now the solution, this box is not auto sensing/swithching.
You have to connect the red wire to ground if you want to switch to your ipod.
then it works!

(I just noticed you solved the problem, meaning you don't have the NVE-K200 either)

 

I used the PIE Alpine AI net adapter, as stated in the title.

XM Satellite Radio at MyRadioStore - AUX Audio Input Adapters - Aftermarket Stereos - Alpine - PIE Alpine AI-Net Aux-Input Switcher ALP/AI-AUX

For anyone hooking up an ipod in the future, like WhiteXKR said, you hook the adapter up between your nav box and amp in the trunk, and then run stereo RCA leads through the cabin near the radio/armrest where you either have a 3.5mm jack, or an ipod cable like I did.

Another helpful hint, my ipod cable had a cigarette adapter for power, but using it caused a noticeable whine. I cut off the adapter and soldered the leads onto the cigarette outlet wires, and this better contact caused the whine to diminish almost completely. Very slight whine still exists - a ground loop isolator would probably fix this.

 

I wish I had known about this P.I.E. adapter two weeks ago. I actually spliced into the AI net cable and soldered leads onto the audio wires within the cable. It works, but I have a pretty significant whine, and the splice looks pretty ugly.

 

This http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002FR2AE and this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062214 should kill your whine.

 

Stupid question.

I am assuming the blue cable going into amp with a white connector is what you pull out from the amp? If so, what is the secret to disengaging this cable, do I need to twist, squeeze, somehow unlock it?

Thanks.

 

I assume you mean the round connector (I have seen various colors). Do not twist, just pull straight out with the connector body, VERY firmly. It takes a bit of force, but the latch disengages just by pulling. If it really is stuck, get some TV tuner cleaner/lube from Radio-Shack and give it a spray...but that probably will not be necessary.

 

Thanks, that did the trick. It definitely took some force, I grabbed the connector with pliers.

The pie alp/ai-aux plugged right in and works like a charm. Absolutely no need to be hacking up wires or the cd changer.

Now to figure out how to run wires from trunk to console!

 

One problem I am experiencing with the PIE adapter.

When I hook up my iPad it works fine. When I use the iPod I have to turn volume on iPod to max in order for the pie to sense the signal interrupt. Even then, it will randomly jump back into radio mode. I tried with another set of shorter cables and another iPod but get the same result.

 

A PAC LD-10 Preamp installed in the trunk (http://www.amazon.com/Peripheral-PAC-LD10-Driver-Booster/dp/B003LWV77Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1303006385&sr =1-1 ) will solve your problem. The audio quality is very good and it is inexpensive. Set the two volume controls roughly half way as a starting point. Then fine tune the volume on your iPod for high enough for a reliable trigger, but low enough to avoid distortion.

 

Just rcvd the PAC-10.

I would like to tap a switched power source in trunk. Where would you suggest? Red wire to amp is only 6v, brown wire is constant on.

Thx.

 

The best way is to use the 3-pin aux power connector that sits beside the battery. You can connect to it with ordinary .250 quick connect terminals. You do need a relay with an internal suppression diode, however, that must be added to the empty relay position in the trunk fuse box. If you PM me I can send you one for $5 for plus $5 priority mail shipping. Black is ground and white/red is ignition switched power.

Alternatively, the white/blue wire going to pin 7 of the 16 pin connector on the navigation unit is ignition switched power if you have navigation, or the white/green wire, pin 1 of the 16 pin connector the reverse parking module in the trunk is ignition switched power. You can tap either of these.

Not sure what you mean by red wire to amp is 6v ...everything in this car as well as the PAC LD-10 is 12v powered.