really stuck parking brake
#1
really stuck parking brake
While trying to go through the teaching process I had the e brake set and holding the brake pedal down. When revs were increased in drive during the process the car lurched and I instinctively jerked the e brake harder on
I guess I pulled it to hard because now I cant raise it far enough to get it to release with the button.
Maybe have to limp it to a lift and release some tension at the brake drums.
Any Ideas appreciated.
I guess I pulled it to hard because now I cant raise it far enough to get it to release with the button.
Maybe have to limp it to a lift and release some tension at the brake drums.
Any Ideas appreciated.
#2
Dennysjag, look at Chilly Phillies excellent instructions on rear bearing replacement. Part of that job is removing ebrake cable.
See his photos of ebrake adjuster under car center, in front of rear wheels.
Looks like a great spot to loosen the nut (use compressed, lots of spins involved), should make release of the lever in cabin manageable.
Years of use have already marked where the nut sits with proper adjustment.
I hope this helps if No One has better idea.
John
See his photos of ebrake adjuster under car center, in front of rear wheels.
Looks like a great spot to loosen the nut (use compressed, lots of spins involved), should make release of the lever in cabin manageable.
Years of use have already marked where the nut sits with proper adjustment.
I hope this helps if No One has better idea.
John
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dennysjag (03-12-2018)
#3
Its a ratchet system in the cabin of the car that you have jammed. The button on the top of the brake lifts up a lever freeing the cog.
If you lift up the surrounding leather boot from the bottom, it just pulls upwards but do it carefully. On the inside edge you have the cog. Spray it with WD40 etc. Take your phone camera and take a photo so you will see what your aiming for. You may also be able to pry the lever bit out of the cog.
Will try and find some photos for you.
Update. I had someone with a similar problem to yours. This was my reply, you may find it useful. http://www.jaguarforum.com/showthrea...=1#post1073297
If you lift up the surrounding leather boot from the bottom, it just pulls upwards but do it carefully. On the inside edge you have the cog. Spray it with WD40 etc. Take your phone camera and take a photo so you will see what your aiming for. You may also be able to pry the lever bit out of the cog.
Will try and find some photos for you.
Update. I had someone with a similar problem to yours. This was my reply, you may find it useful. http://www.jaguarforum.com/showthrea...=1#post1073297
Last edited by frankc; 03-11-2018 at 04:19 PM.
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dennysjag (03-12-2018)
#4
Graham
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dennysjag (03-12-2018)
#6
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#9
teaching
I have been fighting with an erratic idle. The process is outlined somewhere mon this forum.. Cant really tell you where I found it.
The Idle on cold start drops too quickly and I get miss fires.. Almost always on # 8. I have another 2000 xk8 that I am basing these assumptions on.
On cold start it revs to about 1200, then steps down tp 975 then drops down to normal 675..
The Idle on cold start drops too quickly and I get miss fires.. Almost always on # 8. I have another 2000 xk8 that I am basing these assumptions on.
On cold start it revs to about 1200, then steps down tp 975 then drops down to normal 675..
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GGG (03-12-2018)
#10
#11
I have been fighting with an erratic idle. The process is outlined somewhere mon this forum.. Cant really tell you where I found it.
The Idle on cold start drops too quickly and I get miss fires.. Almost always on # 8. I have another 2000 xk8 that I am basing these assumptions on.
On cold start it revs to about 1200, then steps down tp 975 then drops down to normal 675..
The Idle on cold start drops too quickly and I get miss fires.. Almost always on # 8. I have another 2000 xk8 that I am basing these assumptions on.
On cold start it revs to about 1200, then steps down tp 975 then drops down to normal 675..
Have you been reading about the battery reconnection procedure for the 4.2 litre models and allowing the ECM to learn the idle values?
1. Start the engine and allow to idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
2. Switch the engine off.
3. Start the engine and allow to idle for approximately two minutes (this will allow the ECM to learn the idle values).
4. Apply and hold the brake pedal, select drive and allow the engine to idle for a further two minutes.
5. Drive the vehicle for approximately five miles/eight kilometers of varied driving to enable the ECM to complete its learning strategy.
If so, it doesn't apply to the 4.0 litre models.
Graham
#12
#13
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dennysjag (03-12-2018)
#14
But if its specific to one cylinder then the problem is with that cylinder. No point chasing anything else, if you've eliminated plugs and coil then you've only got compression/valves or the LV side of the coil including the ignition module.
#15
It does get random miss fire cylinder codes all an the left bank. mostly #8 when cold. Coolant temp sensor changed mass air flow changed.. I assume the air intake temp sensor is in the mass air flow sensor. If there is another temp sensor I don't know where to find it.. Feel kind of stupid for falling into the parts changing mode, but here I am
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