Issue: I have a 2003 XKR coupe that currently makes noises similar to a washing machine or dryer that I believe is coming from my left rear wheel when driving. It initially started off as a screeching noise, that I thought was a rock stuck between the brakes. After washing and blowing air around the area the noise did not go away. I then proceed to remove the wheel and caliper, but could not get the brake rotor to come off. I did spray brake cleaner into the access port where you turn the gear to loosen the parking brake. Even though I believe I turned the gear for the parking brake all the way to the loose position, I could not remove the brake rotor! I reassemble everything. The screeching noise is now gone, but it still sounds like a bag of rocks is in a washing machine.

Prior to this, I do remember backing out of my slightly inclined driveway with my parking brake still engaged several times. Also ABS light came on when the scratching noise was going on. My question is, with my symptoms of noises and not being able to take the rotor off can we conclude that my parking brake is buggered? How do I go about fixing this?? How will I get the rotor off?

I currently have Cross-drilled rotors but will possibly switch to non-crossdrilled rotors to save money. Maybe my rotors just need to replaced? Or maybe wheel bearings? IDK, any thoughts? Thanks everyone!

 

Entirely possible it could be wheel bearings given the noise and ABS fault. There will be some slight movement when rocking the wheel in the vertical direction, but horizontal movement should be imperceptible.

Make sure the adjuster is completely backed off - the star nut needs to be turned anti-clockwise as far as it will go to ensure the shoes aren't binding on the drum, and ensure there is some slack in the cable. You may still need some extra wiggling and persuasion to get the rotor free.

See this thread from pistnbroke:- he links to a video which may help:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post2524116

 

Thanks michaelh, I have watched that video and when I was trying to turn that star bolt/knob with a flat head it was rather hard, I even tried hammering the flat head but the knob didn’t seem to want to move at all.

To me the video makes it seem that star bolt moves so effortlessly but that just wasn’t the case for me.

 

On mine the friction material detached from shoes due to rust between the two. If you cannot turn the adjuster you are probably trying to turn it the wrong way.

this is the video to watch...

 

I was on the left rear wheel US drivers side pushing the adjuster down or at least trying to. So I don’t think I was turning the adjuster the wrong way? Please correct me if I’m wrong, maybe I adjusted it to the max loose position and the rotor still didn’t want to come off?

I will have to take another look once I buy a new set of rotors. Should I also change out the wheel bearings at this time or can I do that after replacing rotors? Wheel bearings might be a little too involved for me to DIY though

last question should I look into buying something like this? Seems overly expensive to me 🙃 https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...e-832da9d1858b

 

On the LHS, pushing the nearest part of the star nut down is correct. Note I got my clock and anti the wrong way round above (since corrected).

It could be that the rotor is frozen onto the hub - does it move outwards and back at all? Try hitting round the outside of the drum with a hammer - or the back of the rotor - while rotating it (I used a rubber one, but if you're changing the rotors it doesn't matter so much).

You'll probably find once you get it all apart that the inside mechanism will clean up well:- I wouldn't spend money at this point on parts you most likely won't need.

Patience and a good stock of expletives should get you there

 

I found the very soft brakes on mine were caused by bad rear rotors..if brakes are ok try to re use everything.
Tip dont try to unbolt the calliper from the holder ..just unbolt the holder and take it all off as one that is unless you want to change the pads. Before you do anything put a large G clamp around the calliper and push the piston back.
If like me you never use the handbrake just clean up and epoxy the linings back onto the shoes.

 

If you cant move the brake disk at all, as it is welded on, it is not the brake shoes that are holding it but most likely rusted to the hub. Just give it some hammering and it will brake loose. If it sounds like a washing machine it is likely the brake lining material that is detached from the shoes. Just had the same experience on my wife's Mercedes SLK last week.

 

Would I be correct to assume that when you pull up on the parking brake that the red brake warning light comes on, and that when you release the parking brake that that red warning light is indeed extinguished?
At this point, would I then be correct to assume that the parking brake cable to each rear brake indeed has adequate slack?

 

I called two local British specialty shops and they both said that wheel bearings rarely go wrong on these cars. So maybe I should just change the parking brakes, rotors, brake pads? and see how that goes? The shops also wanted a lot of money to change the wheel bearings as well.

 

as someone who had rear bearings fail, they can and will fail just like anything else on these machines.

 

Supprised you have not got the job done by now ..its about 1 hr. Take off the wheel,take off the calliper but by just the two 15mm bolts holding the bracket ..no need to take the pads out. Slack off the adjuster
Put some WD40 around the centre where the disc sits as this may be corroded.
Pull off the disk by rotating. ( both wheels off the ground) and wacking with a 4 LB hammer or copper hammer.
You may find the friction material has come off .either buy new or as a temporary measure glue back with epoxy while you wait for delivery. May just be a spring come-off..you get new ones with new shoes.

If the wheel bearing was gone then rocking the wheel top/bottom and side to side would show play.

Its 9am here so I expect it done by 10.30 OK you can leave it till Saturday.

 

How does the parking brake handle "feel"?

Removing my rear rotors the first time was a bit tough. I struggled with the first rear,,, then cleaned the crap (wire brush and gum cutter) off of the hub shaft for the second, and removal went a whole lot easier.

Sounds like your e-brake cable might be stuck or seized and is not slacking off keeping the e-brake partly or fully engaged?

The bearing job is not hard at all and if you go that route (need to) folks here can help ya thru it. The parts are super cheap... The toughest parts are wrestling with the e-brake cable to loosen it up so you can lean the carrier out towards you, beating the actual hub out of the carrier and tightening the NEW hub/axle nutts back to the (what I think is ridiculous) 200+ foot pounds. Me, for the axle nutts, I didn't go crazy. Used a hydraulic floor jack under a long breaker bar - maybe I got close to the 200lbs or whatever it is.

Bro,,, ya gotta get in there. Have someone help ya with it.

 

Thanks for the encouragement guys. I just have a strong feeling that it is the wheels bearings! Because I get an accompanying ABS light.

And that’s a job I haven’t done before. I suppose I need to rip the bandaid off.

 

All 4 rotors were stuck solidly on my ‘02 XKR. I was replacing them anyway so I didn’t mind beating on them with a 4 lb mini-sledge. But they laughed at my sledgehammer, and refused to budge.

The solution turned out to be the aerosol spray CRC Freeze Off. It took about 1/2 can per wheel, directed at the hub and the wheel studs. Then the rotors practically fell off.

The fumes are toxic, so use outdoors or with a fan behind you.