My brake switch as failed according to my diagnostic device and the lack of cruise control and subsequent dash messages. I ordered two switches from Digikey. I believe they are part number D2HW-A2210. I also have the excellent PDF of how to either replace the switch or repair it. I now have the switch apart and realize that in the PDF, the micro switches have two holes which the author used to mount the switches and adjust them to get the switch to fire at the same point as the original. My microswitches do not have holes and I'm positive I can't just drill them! They switch lever on the new switch is straight (the original is bent down at the tip which I could do with pliers) and at a slightly different angle than the original.

Is there a procedure for these different microswitch? As a last resort, I can solder the new switches onto the circuit board and hope for the best, but there will be no way (that I know of) to adjust the contact point with the cam to make sure it operates correctly.

Thanks for your help!

New microswitch

Original circuit board with microswitches

 

BTW....now that the brake switch is out of the car, it seems to test just fine. I used an ohm meter across pins 1 and 4 (this is the switch that controls the cruise control) and the microswitch worked repeatedly. Maybe I don't have a bad switch? Maybe the connectors just need to be cleaned?

 

Not unusual for your brake pedal switch assembly to test normal once it has been removed. They typically get flaky and intermittent before they fail. Since you already have the two new microswitches, I would install them on your assembly with better soldering. I had an EE friend do that for me in late 2016 after replacing our first failed assembly with a brand-new one (which failed a little more than four years later). I was determined not to shell out the money for yet another new assembly and wound up having my EE friend repair both assemblies with new and better microswitches. My wife and I installed the first repaired assembly back into the car in late 2016, and I have held onto the second repaired assembly in case I eventually need it. So far so good....

 

Thanks for your input! I decided just to replace the microswitches by soldering the new ones on in place of the originals. I did have to bend the last 1/8" or so of the arm because it was too long but otherwise an exact fit. Getting the switch back in the car was a nightmare. We tried for an hour and took a break. On the second attempt, I had my wife looking at the holes through the hood and I was underneath the dash on my back with my head depressing the brake pedal and my right hand maneuvering the switch. After about 15 minutes we hit pay dirt and she hand tightened the nuts. Test drive proved that everything is now working! Yea!