We all know motorcarman has given the best way to do this and after my first effort doing it like the Jaguar Manual, I learned by lesson.
I can only add to the method that has been done in several threads. Most are old and with a little search easy to find.
The wedge in the rear plate allows the rear A arms to swing down further. I accomplished this using a log spiller wedge to open it up about an inch or more. to get the hub to down enough for the spring to just fall out, I used a small bottle jack that was in the 8-inch Neiborhood setting on top of the hub and braced against the frame. I turned it so the release was towards the rear of the car.
One of the first things I did was put some yellow paint sprayed across the top of the frame and on to the upper metal top and down to the spring. This allowed me to know where to put things back together.
There are some fuel lines on the left side, but should not come into play but on the right side there is a wiring harness very close to the top plate and save yourself some grief and pull the little stud that holds it to the frame out of the hole and drop it down, you will thank me for sure, very tight and almost impossible to keep from crushing the harness. Let me Edit this, as I was tightening up the left side, I saw tucked behind the frame a covered harness with the same frame clip, removed that and had to drop the top down a bit off the studs to get it clear. The plastic had a bit of crush from original.
My original bushings at the top were dust, the large one not so much, just broken apart along the edges. I replaced my bottom shock bushings as they showed to be very good with great pressure on a rebound.
Most of the whole process has been covered, but I did take the whole brake caliper off and there is a small hole in the body to framing at the front of the wheel well that you can use a bungy cord to hang the caliber and stuff the speed sensor cable in and they will be completely out of the way.
I wasn't sure what was going to go bang in the night, so mostly hand tools and took me 4 hours start to finish to get everything out of the way and both sides of springs, mounts and shock on the ground. Lots of clean up and replaced the lower shock bushing and new sway bar end links.
Next time air could cut this time in half by just knowing what was going to fall on me.
Had a busy day but got everything in the shock spring area back together and best of all, had a great afternoon with Oz and showed him how I did this as he will being doing this job shortly.
Thanks to all of those that came before me and passed the information on to the rest of us.

 

Most of the XKs and XJs I bought had replacement rear dampers but every one of them had the old spring isolators reinstalled.

I had to remove the springs/dampers to get the deteriorated isolators out and new ones in!!!!!!!!!
Some of the upper bushes were deteriorated/worn so I replaced them.

If you are replacing the dampers or just the upper bushes at least order and replace the spring isolators!!!!!!!!!!!

People buy new dampers that come with the upper bushes but neglect the spring isolators.
I guess they think all the parts come in a kit?
You do not get the spring isolators when you buy new 'shocks'.

 

Well done Wayne....

 

Good Writeup Wayne, I wish I could have been there to crash yours and Ozs party.
I had also thought of using my wedge, but was scared that it would get spit back at me.
Glad it worked for you.

 

I tried to send this to Steve ("baxtor") as a private message but his space quota is full so it wouldn't let me. I just got my '06 XK8 back today from the shop. I noticed that the cushion material showing through the holes in the front shock towers was still yellow. My mechanic showed me the front and rear spring seats (the big yellow rings) that they pulled out and replaced, but he did not know what to do with the parts shown in this picture. I think they are supposed to go in the shock top mounts--the sandwiches that the bolts go through--but I am not qualified to advise him on this. I also can't remember what the dumbbell-shaped one wrapped in plastic is. I did figure out that the three pairs shown here are all different from each other--the back pair is the same, middle pair the same, front pair the same. But neither of us know what to do with them. Please advise. Would be greatly appreciated. I'm assuming I'll need to take it back and have him use these bits for what they're intended for, but right now I can't tell him what to do. Thanks, Phillip

 

phil, inbox now cleared.
the components shown are front mount. The dumbbell shaped package is the 4 top damper bushes for the rear, you will also have 2 x rear spring isolators.
I suspect your mechanic has installed front spring isolator but has not dismantled mount to replace the internals, which are the items you have laid out in pic. Respectfully suggest he has not read the instruction sheet included.
message me if you like l can give you a link to video explaining complete process.

 

Thanks Steve. I will remind him of those; hopefully he still has them. I talked to Wayne on the phone and got myself educated enough to write down the steps and things to be careful of. Took some photos of how they're supposed to go and went back over there to talk to him. I think we're clear. He did not realize I wanted him to take apart the upper front mounts. Everything else is done. New isolators in front and back, new shocks in front and back, new sway bar links front and back. Now we just need to do this part!

 

All good Phil, don't hesitate to contact me if required. You won't go wrong with Wayne's advice anyway.

 

Thanks. I will.

 

Did finally get the job finished with the upper shock mounts rebuilt properly and the center shock bolts centered as they should be. He did not charge me any extra for doing that. Unfortunately, it would seem that at some point while the car was there, something happened to it that left five dents in the upper rear wings and boot lid and cracked the lens of the high-mount rear brake light. The dent repair shop thinks someone dropped something heavy on it. So, that's a pretty big price to pay for suspension improvement, but the dents are very shallow, difficult to see except in the right light, and the brake light housing seems fine; it had a mar on top that buffed out easily. I have an insurance claim in progress with Hagerty and so far that has been pleasant. This dent repair shop is good and they're friendly. They're also busy and booked-out--those two things are directly related! So maybe I'll get her fixed before shows in May and maybe I won't. But I'll go anyway.