I have a leaking valley hose. Going to replace all coolant/heater hoses. Taking an out-of-state trip in a month. Already replaced upper and lower radiator hose.
Determined I need:
Heater hose spider/octopus assembly MJ6728AC
Heater feed pipe to throttle body AJ83970
Heater return home NNE3946GA
Feed hose; heater inlet NCA3946CA
Aux water pump to heater MJA6721AG
Water valve to water pump MJB6720AC
Heater hose T connector NNE3944BA
I have the manifold tilted up to get at valley hoses. Looks like I can get in octopus hose and other hoses with the manifold in but will be tight. Thinking of removing manifold with throttle body attached by taking out pivot bolt. Because of injector wiring crossing manifold don't know if can remove manifold without also disconnecting throttle body.


Shows pivot bolt


Have to disconnect this fuel line. Does it have an o-ring? Size?


Finger pointing at injector wiring. Not sure how to disconnect this so can lift manifold up.

 

I think you'll be better off removing the throttle body first, and then the manifold. Yes, it's a PITA. Yes, you'll need to waste money on a new gasket.

 

Where can you find all the hoses at? I'm in the US, NC to be exact

 

Where can you find all the hoses at? I'm in the US, NC to be exact

 

You hit on my main reason for the question. What's another $50?

 

RockAuto had everything but spider/octopus hose and T connector. Found those at AutohausAZ. Unless something is a closeout, I've never seen anyone beat RockAuto prices. Besides those two also have used Parts Geek and FCP. They are a little bit more than RockAuto. I see members using JagBits and SNG Barrett. Their prices for the Jag original are insane and even the aftermarket are 2 to 3 times as much.

 

Stay away from any hose made by URO. Notorious for leaking just days after installation....

 

+1
It will give you a much better workspace with both out of the way.
I would also change the 8 inlet manifold gaskets. I know they're cooled somewhat by ingoing fuel, but they're at the hot top of the motor.

I used a short piece of 15mm plastic plumbing pipe cut longitudinally to form a 'C' section to release the fuel lines. Clip over the pipe and push into the connector to free the retaining tangs.

 

Left one hose off the list in my first post. Also need throttle body to water pipe, NNE3246BA.

 

^^^^^^^ this !!! ^^^^^^^^

the aftermarket hoses SNG Barratt carries are better quality than what you can get on RockAuto, etc. yes they are more expensive. But in this case you do get what you pay for. The price of the URO hoses, etc., may seem attractive at first . But when they fail, as they usually do sooner rather than later, then the bloom is off the rose. It’s better to pay once / cry once.

Z

PS: order by phone on SNG Barratt and mention that you are a forum member. That will get a 10% discount on most parts.

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/US/home

 

Those are Ford quick disconnects. Google Ford fuel line quick disconnect tool and you'll find bunches. No O-ring.

The trick is to grasp the female side, push it toward the male side, and then press the circular edge of the tool into the female side. You'll feel the clips release. Then pull the hoses apart. To reassemble, just push together until they click.

 

All hoses out. The octopus hose goes underneath all the thick wiring on the firewall. It didn't want to pull through towards American driver's side so I cut where splits on passenger side. Tricks to thread back in? Can you to from underneath? Remove bracket holding all wire connectors at middle of firewall?

 

Hmm, of all the pix I took when I did it, apparently I didn't take a single one of the octopus hose. Yes, the hose runs under all that wiring. I found it to be a royal PITA. In my case, the ham fisted guy before me broke just about every mounting tab on every connector, so my bracket wasn't doing much and all the wires are just stuffed back there. In any case, the bracket is mounted to the trans, so you'd need to unbolt it from underneath. You'll need a looooooong extension or super skinny and long and flexible arms. I think you'll be happier just doing your best to work the hose under the wiring. If you have the throttle body out it's somewhat easier.

BTW, a question about just lifting up the intake. I found a vacuum leak between the bottom edge of the manifold and the top edge of the cylinder head on cylinders 5 and 7. If I disconnect the injector harnesses and unbolt the intake, can I lift it side to side, or raise the front, enough to just replace the 8 seals?

Thanks.

 

Definitely. I did the same manifold tilt when I replaced the thermostat tower on my first XJ8 and replaced the gaskets. Replacing gaskets this time too. Not much room for back ones but doable. I wear 2X gloves so I usually enlist my son’s girlfriend who has tiny hands for jobs like this.

 

SNG Barratt sells an aftermarket hose for $14 and a Jaguar branded for $102. URO $6 at Rock Auto. They don’t identify the aftermarket brand. How do we know not URO as that is all FCP, AutohausAZ, Parts Geek and Rock Auto seem to sell?

 

If it's the original octopus, then there's a hidden zip tie which will hinder removal. The bracket isn't accessible from underneath, and removing it will be difficult as it's secured by the bellhousing bolts. It's possible to lift the HO2 sensor connectors off the bracket to get a little more workspace

Does the hose you seek above connect between the coolant reservoir and the tee piece?


Separately, I know it's extra work to remove the TB and inlet completely, but trying to work around them to get at the octopus and to seat inlet seals into place in their recesses just makes a tedious job even more difficult. And you can't easily clean the mating surfaces.

Just my but clearing the workspace as much as possible makes the job easier in the long run.
.

 

Zip tie makes sense. Once I cut before split came out.

On closer inspectionn, hose in screen shot is not on 2002 XK8.

 

you can call them and ask a real live person.


In my limited experience, they have always given out that information when asked.

Z

 

When I replaced all my hoses I found that the Jag ones were few and far between, and very pricey. Sadly, most of the reproduction hoses are, indeed, made by URO. So... many of my hoses are URO. I note that they seemed pretty sturdy and appear to be holding up well. I also note that all of their hoses had an inner diameter just a taaaaaaad smaller than they should have been, requiring a bit more effort (and some silicone lube) to get into place.

 

I have an unused URO lower radiator hose. Way to small. Could see substaintial diameter difference with the old one not attributable to streching. Found a Continal brand one. That one larger than URO but still smaller than old one. Lube did not work alone. Soaking in a pot of hot water worked.