Reset computer for smog certification for the 2003 XKR, I was wondering if anyone could help me know how to do it, had just fixed miss firing engine.

 

You should be able to reset the stored codes with any standard OBD reader.

The issue you will have then is that you will get a P1000 which means the emissions drive cycle has not completed and you will have to drive the car enough to complete this cycle before you you pass the test.

 

Welcome to the forums Scott,

I presume you have already cleared the codes and now want to know how to complete the monitoring cycles? If so, the sequence has been posted on the forums several times BUT as a newbie, you won't be able to download the documents!

I've added the sequence here as graphics:










Hopefully you are using a device with a sufficiently large screen to be able to see them.

Graham

 

Other option is the "hard reset" procedure. At the battery, disconnect one (or both) of the leads and make contact with the other one for a short while. The idea is to feed all the computers with zero Volts. Ideally, you would also introduce a load of some sort (like maybe try and start the car or turn the headlights on) to help discharge capacitors. This should reset the codes, and also zero out your fuel trims, a good thing if you fixed air leaks. You will also have to reset your windows after this (lower your windows all the way down and maintain until you hear a faint click, roll all the way up until you hear a faint click again). Otherwise, the windows will keep inching down every time you activate the door handle and not go back up automatically. Not sure about the status of your radio stations. And normally, none/few US cars had a radio protected by a code when disconnected.

As Charlie pointed out, the next step will be to complete all the OBD monitors and get to that P1111 "code" indicating you are good to go for emissions purposes. It means driving the car around. Some cars seem to go through this quickly, others struggle for dozens of miles. You will need your gas tank at about half (1/4 to 3/4) for the evap test. FWIW, getting your own OBD tool would help keep track of the progress. My advice would be to start with a cheap ELM327 and a mobile app.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

PS: Understand the procedure does not involve shorting the battery terminals themselves, only the cables from the car to the battery. It should not involve sparks. If this procedure is not 100% clear to you, just go to a parts store, borrow their code reader and do a reset with that tool instead.

 

All good advice from above. Speaking from experience, keep in mind that it takes 100+ miles of driving to get the emissions drive cycle monitors to completely reset after disconnecting the battery. I had just performed a hard reset a couple of days before getting a smog check in Nevada 2 years ago and the smog machine returned an "incomplete" code, which kept it from passing. I told the tech that I had just done a hard reset; he told me to drive 100-150 miles to get the monitor to reset itself and then the car successfully passed.

 

Regarding clearing all of the readiness monitors, drive cycle practice certainly speeds up the process as you gain familiarity with it. After a canister close valve wiring repair job on my wife's 2006 XK8 in late September, it took me more than 200 miles of driving to finally clear all of them. After a bank one upstream oxygen sensor replacement job in late December, I was able to clear all of them in less than 30 miles of driving. Staying in 3rd gear using the J-gate at a consistent 50 mph for a couple of miles, coasting to a stop, repeating those steps, doing some routine driving in D in a relatively rural area for perhaps 20 miles, then pulling into an empty church parking lot and allowing the car to idle in P for approximately 12 minutes did the trick for me. My fuel tank was just over half full at the time....

 

I need to do this for an upcoming E test and I seem to recall once seeing an optimized script/driving procedure to go through this sequence in one drive.
I've tried a number of forum searches but have come up empty. Does anyone have a link that?

 

I had the same problem at the smog place. I drove the car approximately 70 miles, and when I came back it passed.

 

Do what I described above in post #6 and let us know if that does the trick for you as well....