Hello all, tried searching and not really finding a good match to my issue. I have a 2008 XKR with 94,000 miles on it. Had it about a year now and love the car. Here lately the car lurches and surges on hard acceleration from a stop like it was a standard and i low RPM dropped the clutch. seems to run fine after about 3rd gear. no knocking or clanking and the shifts are smooth up and down shifts. Any ideas?

 

Seen your post on the Brit forum, waste of time posting there to tell the truth unless you have battery problems. Your car is the same as the old x100 xkr . do a hard reset doing the following to reset the gearbox , first turn on ignition, Then press brake pedal hard and hold firm with your foot for over 30seconds, It resests the gearbox. I done that on my 11plate every 3-4 month to reset mine and it works

 

Thanks, I had tried the battery reset of disconnecting both terminals and touching the leads but had not heard of this reset. Any indication when it is successful? I just did it both ignition on but engine off and engine on and never got any indication of anything happening. Clocked my time to over 30 seconds each time then took a drive and unfortunately still happening.

 

Maybe it is time to have the transmission serviced. ZF is now suggesting that the transmission be flushed, new fluid installed along with the pan. There have been several threads about this on the Forum.

 

You won't notice the difference till you take it for a run, you must have a problem , better to get it checked out with a transmission specialist

 

Any fault codes?

There is obviously something wrong so I would get the codes read before doing anything.

 

Fuel Filter or Fuel Pump maybe. Could also be an issue with injectors. Any codes being pushed?

 

thanks everyone, so headed up to the local Jag dealer and they do not touch anything over 10 years old unless they have been servicing it for a while. They did recommend an indy shop that specializes in Jaguars so I will reach out to that shop.

To add more detail i had it serviced at an indy shop that specializes in Euro cars about 5 months ago. oil and filter, fuel filter, and a complete trans service as Ralphwg described. while not as bad this was happening before that. Shop tried to say it was normal and just remind him at next oil change and he would check the supercharger. Haven't been back and the lunging/surging/lurching has gotten worse in the last month although on the drive today it didn't seem as dramatic as before trying the reset suggested by Goerge05. Maybe placebo and wishful thinking on my part...

 

A DEALER said they wouldn't touch an older car?!? Dang, what a worthless place. I'd not go to them again, ever. Bad business practice, that. Just as well, that's where most dealers make a bulk of their profits, service. They way overcharge for per-hour work.
If it were ME, I'd o a fluid change regardless. It's probably mucky goo at this point.

 

Got the wrong pedal . soz It even works on mercs Turn ignition to ON then press and hold gas pedal for 3 mins , Switch off then wait 2 mins then take for a drive

 

Heh. Ignition ON for three minutes and an XK will drain the battery flat, dead, kaput and there ya are.

 

Have you tried re-adapting the transmission?
it does amazing things . I accidentally reset transmission adaptations though my SDD it was horrible after that. Did the transmission adaptation and all is good as new!

 

Is the yellow traction control light coming on or flashing in the instrument cluster during these moments of lurching and surging?

 

Without codes... its a bit of a crap shoot.
Lets start with the easy ones:
1. Fuel and oil caps tight.
2. PCV valve and tubes not leaking
3. MAF sensor clean and clean new filters.
4. System reset.
nearly forgot
5. state of cats.
TCU is pretty resilient.

 

Your spark plugs probably reaching their limit maybe.My spark plugs started failing at 60,000 miles on my 2014 XKR making my car go in restricted performance mode and my Jag was trying to turn off(which it eventually did and had to call a tow truck)and my car was losing power without even going into that mode.I checked for leaks and there was none and it got to the point where i had to smash the gas pedal all the way down just to make it go and for it to stay on before my XKR threw in the towel and turned off on me to let me know it gives up.It started running god awful too and it won't trying to get enough RPM's to make it to the next gear.It eventually started hanging on to 1 or 2 RPM's to let me know it was struggling to survive off the same RPM as a scooter that can't go over 35mph and at that point if i raced 1,even the scooter could beat me

 

Thanks everyone, yeah without codes it really is a crapshoot. Called JagMac in Dallas and he is going to try and fit me in next Wednesday to take a look. He said it sounds like the trans is either low or TCM needs refreshed, but will know more after seeing/driving her. Will give the gas pedal reset a try later today (with the tender hooked up) and see if any change. Car runs great as long as I don't act like Don Garlets at the light looking down the 1/4 mile stretch , but it is so much fun I really want it fixed...

 

Hi Cambo, I usually disable traction control completely as I think the computer overreacts and is annoying. One of these days I plan on upgrading to a limited slip diff, but got to see how much this is going to cost me first.

 

Put an IR thermometer on your CATS. Start it up and let it get to operating temp, then point the thermometer at each CAT first the front of the CAT, then the back of it. Check one against the other. If one is running ridiculously hot, say above 1600 degrees v.s. the other you prolly have a blocked CAT. Normal op temp is 1200 -1600 degrees
If the outlet temp is running 200 degrees or more than the inlet, you're running rich in that bank. If the outlet is about 500 degrees hotter than the inlet, you have unburned fuel in that bank.
If one of the cats is running hot, like around 2000 degrees it's likely clogged. Easy checks while your waiting to visit the transmission man. Cost of an IR thermometer is about $20.

Bad cats don't always throw codes so nothing lost but time by doing this

 

 

Sorry, yes he checked the level and it was at proper level so just the TCM reset/flash did the trick. Will see if it holds