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Hello hello!I was having starting issues so I decided to shiny up the starter cable and terminals. Then I realized the starter has 1 short cable connected to another cable , which goes back to the battery. On the bulkhead. Could I just put 1 cable to the battery or do I need it to connect bulkhead? on thdIts on a 2000 Xk8
Battery in trunk on mine ..???? just ensure original wiring and connectors are in good condition
yessir.. in the trunk. I noticed the bulkhead terminal was cracked so I took it off and my fat hands barely fit by the ecu so i thought id bssically just splice the cable to the back.
So there is no specific purpose for the terminal in the bulkhead? It seems too easy ... like its a trap haha
You could certainly replace the whole cable from the starter back to the high power protection (fuse) module in the boot if that is easier for you than repairing what is already there. The stud is just to get through the bulkhead, I don't think anything else is connected to it other than the starter. Given the problems low batteries cause when starting, putting a whole new cable in is not a bad idea.
As an auto electrician of 40 years your flippant splice worries me ....Any joint must be mechanically solid and soldered as well as insulated .
A bolt and some top hat washers to get through the bulkhead would be simpler.or turn up and insulator on your lathe.
You could certainly replace the whole cable from the starter back to the high power protection (fuse) module in the boot if that is easier for you than repairing what is already there. The stud is just to get through the bulkhead, I don't think anything else is connected to it other than the starter. Given the problems low batteries cause when starting, putting a whole new cable in is not a bad idea.
I was thinking I could attach the new cable to the end of the old one by the protection box and just pull it through right to the starter. It is crazy how picky she is with always wanting shiny cables and terminals... if all else fails shine something up.
I might just try the long cable to the starter and see if that runs efficiently since i already shined it up... thanks man.
As an auto electrician of 40 years your flippant splice worries me ....Any joint must be mechanically solid and soldered as well as insulated .
A bolt and some top hat washers to get through the bulkhead would be simpler.or turn up and insulator on your lathe.
You being worried about my flippant splice worries me Sir. If i was truly being flippant then I dont think I would be asking for advice and putting forth the effort to research the topic. In fact the whole point and reason for my post was to find a non flippant solution. Ive never been called flippant before... funny word.
What if I dont even join them? Just move the long one to the starter ? Dont worry ive already shined it up .. do you see any issues with that Sir? I feel the more connections, joints etc... always weaken the assembly. So by deleting the short cable and not using the terminal bolt to bulkhead connection I eliminate that from causing any issues. I guess the big question is will it create any issues by not existing. Thanks for your concern and response
To the OP: Running a cable through a sheet metal (knife edge) bulkhead is the easiest way to torch your vehicle. If anyone here is calling the idea flippant, they are giving you the HUGE benefit of the doubt. The cable is not just the starter cable. It is the main power path to the battery from the engine compartment, including the alternator.
To the OP: Running a cable through a sheet metal (knife edge) bulkhead is the easiest way to torch your vehicle. If anyone here is calling the idea flippant, they are giving you the HUGE benefit of the doubt. The cable is not just the starter cable. It is the main power path to the battery from the engine compartment, including the alternator.
I appreciate that but that wasnt my intention. What i wanted to know was if it was necessary to involve the bulkhead and 2 cables. If I could just go from starter to the protection module.. Im not trying to scorched anything... im in Texas and its hot enough already. .
To the OP: Running a cable through a sheet metal (knife edge) bulkhead is the easiest way to torch your vehicle. If anyone here is calling the idea flippant, they are giving you the HUGE benefit of the doubt. The cable is not just the starter cable. It is the main power path to the battery from the engine compartment, including the alternator.
This was never even suggested. Way too many cheerleaders that cant read in this world! ...
If you dont like Flippant then try KISS.......A couple of nylon top hat washers from ebay and a bolt and you are done .
The bolt is there for assembly reasons at the factory ,if you have tried to access the starter solenoid with the engine in situ you will know why particularly on a RHD model ( steering rack off for a start )
If you dont like Flippant then try KISS.......A couple of nylon top hat washers from ebay and a bolt and you are done .
The bolt is there for assembly reasons at the factory ,if you have tried to access the starter solenoid with the engine in situ you will know why particularly on a RHD model ( steering rack off for a start )
I suppose the question is how much room is there to get access to the bulkhead connector? If the OP is struggling to clean up the existing connector, can they get in there to dismantle the connector and add a sleeve or grommet to the new cable to protect it a it goes through the bulkhead and is the hole big enough? I wonder if there is any other route that would be easier?
seems like the OP is trying to reinvent the wheel.
Just clean the existing terminal(s) and move on to the next issue. As for the improvements contemplated, just leaving well enough alone would be the path of least resistance. No pun intended
The starter is separated from the module by bulkheads. You either run two cables and a bulkhead connector, or you run one cable with a grommet. To say that you never suggested that is preposterous.
seems like the OP is trying to reinvent the wheel.
Just clean the existing terminal(s) and move on to the next issue. As for the improvements contemplated, just leaving well enough alone would be the path of least resistance. No pun intended
the terminal was cracked and the 2 nylon nuts were moving around... im not trying to invent any wheels... just want the 4 i got to roll.
I suppose the question is how much room is there to get access to the bulkhead connector? If the OP is struggling to clean up the existing connector, can they get in there to dismantle the connector and add a sleeve or grommet to the new cable to protect it a it goes through the bulkhead and is the hole big enough? I wonder if there is any other route that would be easier?
Exactly... i would have to order the junction terminal but i already have shrink wraps and solder. I have a bramd new 6 foot 4 aug cable that I can attach to theer protection box and thread it to the starter. Or dk I have to make it go to the bulkhead first to a junction? E Appreciate you understanding my issue.
Exactly... i would have to order the junction terminal but i already have shrink wraps and solder. I have a bramd new 6 foot 4 aug cable that I can attach to theer protection box and thread it to the starter. Or dk I have to make it go to the bulkhead first to a junction? E Appreciate you understanding my issue.
My opinion is if you can route your new cable to the starter in one piece then do it. Unfortunately you will always have people losing their minds over any kind of modification to the car, whether its putting a resistor in series with the convertible top pump, cutting a hole in the parcel shelf to access the fuel pump, cutting a hole in the boot to access the diff drain plug, cutting the headlight deflectors down to get more light output, or even attaching a knock sensor using a magnet - they go crazy and tell you your engine will explode, the car will catch fire, your chickens will stop laying and your house will be repossessed, lol.
the terminal was cracked and the 2 nylon nuts were moving around... im not trying to invent any wheels... just want the 4 i got to roll.
I’m just not seeing the difficulty in ordering the cracked junction box and new nylon nuts if needed. If SNG Barratt doesn’t carry them they can be had used from several used parts dealers like NOMA in Texas. They are close to you and have high quality used parts. Same day service .
I’m just not seeing the difficulty in ordering the cracked junction box and new nylon nuts if needed. If SNG Barratt doesn’t carry them they can be had used from several used parts dealers like NOMA in Texas. They are close to you and have high quality used parts. Same day service .
I think its best to keep the 2 cables. I had a couple nylon nuts in my garage and just set it up as kt was. Routing thrlugh thd bkhead secures it best... I have nerve damage on the end of my fingertips sometimes and after dropping 10 nuts in between the heat shield gets incredibly frustrating. But I got a new grabber claw tool from Amazon and I will be buried with it.. haja
Starter cable delete?
