Stripped star bolt
I am removing the ABS control module to check the solder joints. One star bolt has the head striped. of course it is the lower one closest to the front of the car. It is a 4 mm star bolt. If I can get it cracked, I think I can remove it by hand.
Any suggestions on getting it out?
Thanks
Any suggestions on getting it out?
Thanks
I am removing the ABS control module to check the solder joints. One star bolt has the head striped. of course it is the lower one closest to the front of the car. It is a 4 mm star bolt. If I can get it cracked, I think I can remove it by hand.
Any suggestions on getting it out?
Thanks
Any suggestions on getting it out?
Thanks
I'm thinking it should be a torx 20 or so... If you have a hex socket that you don't mind tossing, you could tap the next size up into the torx bolt... Get it seated and solid... turn slowly without moving it around while pushing down on the bolt... It should break free...
Good luck and let us know...
Cheers!!
Good day,
I'm thinking it should be a torx 20 or so... If you have a hex socket that you don't mind tossing, you could tap the next size up into the torx bolt... Get it seated and solid... turn slowly without moving it around while pushing down on the bolt... It should break free...
Good luck and let us know...
Cheers!!
I'm thinking it should be a torx 20 or so... If you have a hex socket that you don't mind tossing, you could tap the next size up into the torx bolt... Get it seated and solid... turn slowly without moving it around while pushing down on the bolt... It should break free...
Good luck and let us know...
Cheers!!
This won't work. It is a Star bolt, not a torx.
Last edited by MRomanik; Jul 27, 2012 at 08:06 AM.
If all else fails, carefully grind the head off with a dremel tool and with module removed then use vise grips to remove remaining stud. It's a little more work but you are not in a hopeless situation by any means.
Thanks Bob. I will need one .PM me with particulars.
Last edited by MRomanik; Jul 27, 2012 at 08:12 AM.
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Looks like this is the only way to go now.
When I re-soldered mine instead of cutting the module at the seam I drilled a 5/8" hole above the solder joints, using a drill press. I could control the depth with out any damage to the board using a hole saw without a pilot drill. then soldered the joint and capped with a black 5/8" plug (smeared small amount of silicone to seal it), it's less invasive than cutting the module and less time. Hope this may be able to save you a little time.
Always try to use heat.
I've found the Weller type pistol soldering irons invaluable for freeing small bolts.
Give them a really good cooking then have a go while they're still hot.
Rather than grind the head off you could use the Dremel to put a screwdriver slot in the bolt head.
Touch your screwdriver on the grindstone so it makes grind marks parallel with the flat. These bite into the screw slot and help to grip it.
I've found the Weller type pistol soldering irons invaluable for freeing small bolts.
Give them a really good cooking then have a go while they're still hot.
Rather than grind the head off you could use the Dremel to put a screwdriver slot in the bolt head.
Touch your screwdriver on the grindstone so it makes grind marks parallel with the flat. These bite into the screw slot and help to grip it.
I got the control module apart and it didn't look like the solder points were corroded to my old eyes but I did resolder just in case.
Waiting for the RTV to cure.
Thanks to every one.
Waiting for the RTV to cure.
Thanks to every one.
thanks to motorcarman for the bolts.
I noticed there is yellow looking stuff on the back of the unit. looks like foam and is semi hard. I am guessing that something leaked and the module is is toast.
I am going to send it Module Masters for evaluation and repair if possible.
I noticed there is yellow looking stuff on the back of the unit. looks like foam and is semi hard. I am guessing that something leaked and the module is is toast.
I am going to send it Module Masters for evaluation and repair if possible.
Those look like the opposite of a torx head, which here in USA we call them “E-xx” for example instead of a torx “t-20” they would be “e-20” any good mechanic knows a 12pt socket will sometimes work, but if you got em out replace them with same length, pitch, and any kind of head you want. A bolt is a bolt, with exceptions but in this case, hardware store and good
Those look like the opposite of a torx head, which here in USA we call them “E-xx” for example instead of a torx “t-20” they would be “e-20” any good mechanic knows a 12pt socket will sometimes work, but if you got em out replace them with same length, pitch, and any kind of head you want. A bolt is a bolt, with exceptions but in this case, hardware store and good









