Hello Everyone,

Working on cars is not my trade, but I can do the basic. When
I first starting driving the jag it ran fine, then it over heated. I
seen it was leaking in one of the hoses, fixed it, everything is ok
now. When I start it up, it seems to be miss fire on one side until
it warms up, but when I get around 50 mph and punch it, it bogs
down, like its not getting any gas. Not sure if this evens makes
sense to you guys. I have talked to people at the parts store, an
I always get a different answer, their just there to sale as much
as they can. I have standard tools, but I can't get any thing to
fit, I assume everything is metric, am I right?

The lady that owned it had a jag specialist work on it, so she's
no help to me. When I got it the oil looked great, now it's getting
dark, the parts store told me I had to get special oil from a dealer, is
this so? Also I was told the plugs where stranded, but I seen a video
on how to change them, and it seems I need a special socket with
rubber gaskets in it, is this so? Also do I need to change out the
coil when I change the plugs?

Any case, I'm going to attempt to get the covers off, and try to
remove, or at least inspect the plugs. I'll keep y'all posted, and any
advise will be truly appreciated.

One other thing, should I change the fuel filter, as that has been
the problem in other cars?

Thanks,

 

you should download the JTIS manual as a start
see
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-data-29800/

 

Buy an inexpensive code reader, and see if the misfire has resulted in a stored code. Your local parts store should be able to read engine codes, but judging by the ignorance they have displayed so far they will probably say they can't.

When the hose gave out did it spray coolant on one of the valve covers? The plugs or coils may need to be cleansed off. Be very careful with the fasteners on the coil cover and cam cover, they screw into inserts in the plastic and you can break them loose. Also, don't disconnect the coils, the plastic is brittle and may break. The spark plug socket is a standard type which will have the rubber insert.

No special oil required, but if you have records from the specialist continue the same oil. There are many discussions here on the subject, just use the search button on the right side of the bar near the top of the forum page.

Not a bad idea to change the fuel filter, it may have been neglected. Your fuel pump may be failing, but the filter is the first thing to check.


The tools are metric and many of the fasteners are torx type.

 

Could this be vapor lock?

 

Just a stab in the dark- change the fuel filter- also, please check for codes and report back.

One more item- does this car have 3rd gen tensioners? You need to know, and if not change them right away.

 

Get an OBD tool with live data. First check for codes, then check sensors for plausibility, finally check fuel trims.

 

+1

When troubleshooting powertrain issues, ALWAYS reach for the code reader BEFORE reaching for the tool box.

Graham

 

Thanks for the reply's, but y'all just confused the crap out of me.
1) What is 3rd gen tensioners, and what do I do about them?
2) What is a code reader, and can a local mechanic check this for me?
3) What does vapor lock mean, is that like air in the gas line? and is
powertrain issues the same thing?

Any case, I'll try all the above, and let you all know the out come, again
thanks.

 

The original tensioners in the pre 2003s are made of plastic and degrade over time. It is the secondary chain tensioners. If you search on chain tensioners here you will see more than you need/want to know. If there isn't paperwork with the car or you don't know if they have been changed you need to have it checked out. The 3rd gen tensioners are mostly metal and do not cause engine failure. The code reader is an OBD2 reader search Torque or Dash Command. These are 2 smartphone apps one Apple, one Android that with a wireless or Bluetooth adapter will read the error codes in your car's ECU. Vapor lock is a condition that occurred with carbureted engines that does not apply to pressurized Fuel injections such as those used on all XKs. A search on the first 2 items will give you a great read. Good luck.

 

More on code readers

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...-%2A%2A-33347/

 

Thunder Head, Yes I would change the fuel filter, takes about 1/2 hour, you can do it yourself easily. Just don't forget to depressurize the system before disconnecting. You will enounter a heat sheild, it is OK to bend it out of the way.

"Special" tool for spark plugs just refers to sparkplug sockets with Rubber ring inside. The plugs are at the far end of a long tube, the rubber ring engages and holds on to the plug so its easy to remove them once they are unscrewed. Pay attention to what the other member said, those electrical plugs to the ign coils are really fragile. I wasn't able to seperate mine without breaking the locking tab.

If you are going to procede with the plug replacement, you might want to search on my name. After doing mine the first time I posted the socket sizes youwill need for the cover. Finding the right size and shape socket was a huge chunk of the time I spent when I did mine. I'm on a phone now or I'd search for you.

 

The socket you need for the plugs is nothing special, it's simply a spark-plug socket, sold everywhere. Just make sure to get the right size as there are different sized plugs in different cars.

Also, when you get the code reader, make sure you get one that will read Jaguars as not all read them. There's a like in the sticky's regarding which ones have proved useful for our cars.

The bog down issue, and please everyone, correct me if I am wrong because it's always god too learn, to me points to one of two things, A) A faulty throttle position sensor (not expensive). This could be indicated by when you sit at an idle the car doesn't want to idle at one speed, but rev's up and down as the sensor tries to figure out what it's supposed to do, and B) It may be the result of a hole/tear in the throttle body diaphragm. The diaphragm holds pressure/vacuum and if there is a hole, the pressure/vacuum can't be held. The car will bog down until the pressure/vacuum equalizes the position of the throttle. I say pressure/vacuum because it depends on how you see the action.

 

Use the OBD tool as I posted and save time & money. You'll know for sure if you have any air leaks.