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A 22 year old car that has been sitting for 10 years? Of course it leaks fluid!
After 10 years things will happen when you start driving it.
No rust and 5k? I had bought it (and maybe regret it later)
Ha.....that happens to me after sitting for ten hours.
Not quite sure what you mean by that last sentence...care to explain?
Ok so we've shaken hands, virtually, on a deal....going back next weekend to try and find the coolant leak.
BUT!
My issue is now I can't find an indy that wants to work on it. I'd go to Syracuse NY or even Rochester. Anyone from those areas?
Also...I've read on another thread on the XJ8 Forum that you only need to replace tensioners....true? Or false economy since your already opened up?
..... Seller says it had been on the road last in 2013 .....
After that length of inactivity, it's beyond straightforward servicing and needs proper recommissioning. At a minimum this will be:
1. all fluids
2. all coolant hoses
3. new tyres
4. new battery
Factor in that wishbones are also likely to be stiff or partially seized and fuel pumps don't like inactivity. There will inevitably be plenty of electrical gremlins
The big questions for me would be:
1. how long has the vendor owned the vehicle (if not since 2013 then the story doesn't add up)
2. why has it stood for ten years
My suspicion is it could have had an overheat. If it has then warped heads aren't recoverable. At the asking price it still makes sense to take on major engine repair if the body and trim are good.
The CEL could be many things of which an O2 sensor is one of the more optimistic. I'd have used SDD before even driving it. A diagnostic session tells more than any vendor ever will.
Parts are becoming increasingly difficult for all JLR models. Repairs could be protracted both sourcing and waiting for spares. However, a major consideration has to be not doing the work yourself. Labour is going to be very high and once an Indy sets out on any significant dismantling you are locked in to go to completion regardless.
If the time, garage space and cost aren't a cause for concern then I'd go for it. All Jaguars are a project to some degree and this is a better proposition than buying an example that initially appears mechanically sound then develops cooling issues.
With sufficient determination, you will end up with a good example. However, this is not the best outcome. Taking your brother out for a drive is beyond price but don't forget, if it goes wrong, he's top dog forever. We're talking a lot more than just an old Jaguar here.
You've received a lot of great input from some of our most knowledgeable members!
Just to add to their recommendations, the tester that olddavidp mentioned is called a Block Tester or Combustion Gas Tester. NAPA and Amazon sell a kit for less than $50, and some of the other auto parts stores like O'Reilly and AutoZone may rent the kits, though you'll have to purchase a bottle of fresh test fluid (the fluid has a shelf life so must be fresh). The apparatus includes a glass cylinder with a conical rubber base and a suction bulb at the upper end. The special blue test fluid is poured into the cylinder and the conical base is seated on the coolant reservoir filler neck. With the engine running and warm, the suction bulb is worked slowly to draw coolant vapors up through the test fluid. If the blue test fluid turns yellow, the cooling system contains combustion gasses, a clear indicator that a head gasket is leaking (or the block is cracked, but that is rare on AJ engines). Note that some coolant may need to be removed from the reservoir so liquid coolant is not drawn up into the glass cylinder, contaminating the test fluid.
A cylinder compression test would also be helpful, but all eight cylinders would have to be tested. A cylinder leakdown test on all cylinders would also be helpful, but that requires a special apparatus, compressed air and turning the crankshaft to set each cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, so it probably is not practical in the field.
You may also be able to rent or purchase a cooling system pressure test kit. The pressure cap needed to fit the coolant reservoir also fits many Fords, GMs, Land Rovers, C6 Corvettes, etc., so it's included in some basic kits like the MityVac MV4560. The U.S. General or Pittsburgh kit from Harbor Freight has a Land Rover/BMW pressure cap that will thread onto an X100 but may or may not seal - you just have to try it. These kits all use a hand pump to pressurize the system, so they are portable. Also check for dried coolant residue below the water pump. Pump leaks often do not flow during a pressure test but only when the engine is running.
The lack of white steam from the exhaust is not proof that the head gaskets are okay. It is possible for a head gasket to fail such that a coolant jacket communicates with an oil passage, but neither communicates with the combustion chamber, so don't forget to check the oil again on your next visit. The brown murky fluid in the coolant reservoir could be an oil/coolant mix.
Originally Posted by thegreatgarbanzo
Looking closer there is fluid on manifold under the lower hose of the expansion tank that looks like it had been there a while. Old fuid at front of manifold too.
This sounds like the very common leak at the Norma connector O-ring between the notorious plastic Tee-fitting (3-way connector) and the octopus hose, or possibly a cracked Tee-fitting. It is very easy to replace the O-ring, and not too difficult to replace the Tee. It could also be a leaking valley hose, of course, and replacing those requires disconnecting and displacing, but not usually removing, the intake manifold. But this is not too difficult and makes it easy to replace the plastic thermostat tower with an aluminum one.
Definitely scan the car for codes. Most generic scan tools can only read the Powertrain (P-prefix) codes, but those will be helpful, and anything related to misfires, knock sensors, catalytic converter efficiency or the transmission can be cause for concern.
Clean, very-low mileage X100s have become very difficult to find and asking prices tend to be high. I personally consider clean interior and exterior cosmetics to be my primary consideration and don't worry too much about drivetrain issues unless something suggests it's serious and potentially more costly than the car can be worth. So if you're willing to go into the deal with your eyes open, the car may be a great candidate for renovation.
But bear in mind the old adage, "The most expensive Jaguar you can buy will come at the lowest purchase price."
I definitely prefer the appearance of the coupes, but I appreciate the slightly better headroom in the convertibles (I know, it's counterintuitive). But I still want to add another coupe to my garage and am on the lookout. What is the exterior color of this car you're considering? I actually like oatmeal interiors...
I do have a Block Tester and pressure tester for the cooling system.
Trying to get back to the car but can only go weekends due to the lack of daylight.....but as I write this I realize I,ve been under, over, inside etc....just need to do those two tests and hook it up to my diagnostic reader. His garage floor is freshly expoxied and clean.
I have to go to an.....ahem....Black Tie affair in Albany tonight so this weekend is out. Too much driving across NYS.
I did find a tech in Syracuse, CanTech. Actually went there a few years back for a cars and coffee in my MG BGT. Most others were Porsche save for a few Italian exotics.
He can do the chain tensioners but balked at any heavy engine work....ie head gasket. He did say the Block Tester was pretty reliable.....so that coukd be moot.....for now.
It is Titanuim with Oatmeal. Nice color.
Thanks again everyone for the encouragement......Been looking at the vids for the octopus and various cooling fixes.
I'm swamped at work....but I need to act fast as salty roads aren't too far off and I don't want to expose it.
More updates as they happen.
Last edited by thegreatgarbanzo; Dec 2, 2023 at 07:45 AM.
To my eye, that is one of Jaguar's classiest combinations and easier to keep clean-looking than say, black over black. You will get lots of compliments on that car!
(Sorry, I'm getting ahead of your remaining diagnostics!)
To my eye, that is one of Jaguar's classiest combinations and easier to keep clean-looking than say, black over black. You will get lots of compliments on that car!
(Sorry, I'm getting ahead of your remaining diagnostics!)
Cheers,
Don
Ha!!! No enablers on this forum!!!!
Heading up tomorrow morning. I skipped the party in Albany. Tough choice....the hors doeuvres and booze are all top shelf!
When you asked for advise, you sure got it. That's the way it is on this forum. Nothing but help. Good luck on your adventure and I hope it works out. My .02 opinion is you will do the world a favor by saving this car. As mentioned you will find all cars to be a project to an extent. So why not make it a beautiful one and drive it for a long time. Then you don't worry about the "market price". TM
Met up with Seller yesterday. The car looked 100% better than before since he left it out of the garage for a few days and it had been rained on. Car was covered in dust prior. Turns out it has a new battery and fuel pump...I see the new battery but he's still looking for the receipt....uh...yeah....for the fuel pump.
Did a pressure test, 14.5 lbs, and poked around w. my flashlight. Right hand side hose leaking at tstat housing. Did it twice, could not see any other leaks but there was a small puddle at top rear of engine which I had seen last week but had not grown. My plan is to replace every bit of rubber under the hood so pleased to see it wasn't pouring out of the front or side of the block.
Resevoir was low, started car to bring to temp for "Block Tester". Right hand hose heated up in time, left never did save for immediate junction with tstat housing. I pumped the soft cool hose several times and got fluid movement into the resevoir. Kind of leery that I may not be getting real time coolant to test. Started the test and pumped for over a minute.....fluid still blue. I went to the exhaust pipe and did a few sniffs with the tester and it turned yellow almost immediately. So I did it again, pumping the radiator hose continuously while pumping the tester bulb. No change in color again.
The left hand hose never got warm. So bad tstat or radiator. URO aluminum thermostat housing. QUESTION: Would that have been a later replacement part?? Never been a fan of URO.
Of concern the fans never came on with the A/C or defrost running, they spun freely but never activated. The exterior two motor housings were corroded, something my brother noticed....he thought a pipe may have burst, showering the fans with antifreeze and cooking the fans but I doubt that would have killed the motors. The hose leak surely could have sprayed antifreeze on the fans....who knows??
Anyways....perfect buying opportunity. Wife wanted the garage back, Seller was tired of dealing with the incessant Face Book responses. I went over "the list", from tires to hoses, tensioners, suspension etc, etc. Made a fair offer which he accepted.
So....it sits at his house for a day or two until I figure out where to bring it. Checked flat bed pricing...$600... thinking Mr. UHaul will get the call in the morning and I'll tow it home for under $100. Lots of rain in the forecast so no fear of salt spray while hauling.
I'm not going to wrench this other than possibly doing the tstat housing and whatever I feel comfortable with....which ain't much. I will be calling two shops in the sellers market who appear to be somewhat Jag-centric based on their website....or at least non Jag-ophobic. As stated above....the world needs this car. For what I paid there's a lot of room to get it done right.
Now let's see if I can upload the four cruddy pix I took. Many more when I get it to it's winter home....my house or shop.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Last edited by thegreatgarbanzo; Dec 3, 2023 at 11:10 PM.
So, Seller tells me it was Titanium...of course I didn't bother to look at the color code on the car and I see there was no Titanium as far as the UK brochures.
The color combination looks just like my 2003 XJ8, which is Quarts Metallic (LHK) over Oatmeal (AGD). You can find the three-letter color codes on the VIN label inside the driver's door, either on the B-pillar or trailing end of the door.
Regarding the Üro Parts aluminum thermostat tower, I also try to steer clear of Üro Parts because I have had mixed results with them, but for some parts, they are currently the only supplier. Even Jaguar dealerships are selling some Üro Parts hoses and such because they are the only ones available.
As far as the aluminum thermostat tower goes, the only issues I have had are failure of the rubber seals over time, and corrosion on the hose fittings on cars on which the hoses were hardened or the clamps were not properly secured. SNG Barratt, Welsh Enterprises and others offer the aluminum thermostat housings, but I suspect they are all the same unit as the one marketed by Üro Parts.
I figure in a week or two we're going to be in the start of winter....with the slushy salty roads that go with it. So the car is going to sit for four months regardless of the fact I fix it this week or not.
I really doubt I'll be doing any driving at all before Spring.....even if it doesn't snow this month tbey still salt when below freezing and frankly I'd hate to expose it to salt either by driving or flat bedding
I don't think another few months of inactivity will hurt it after not being registered since 13.
First off congrats on your new Jag. It looks like a real beauty. My '97 sits for 6 months each winter in a non heated garage with a trickle charger on it. Starts and runs fine every spring.
I don't think another few months of inactivity will hurt it after not being registered since 13.
Thoughts?
Another few months won't hurt anything, but you may want to connect a trickle charger to the battery and test the freeze point of that murky anti-freeze in case it could put you at risk of a cracked block.
