How does one remove the micro switch from the latch without breaking it? Do not have the new one yet so I cannot see how it is mounted. The plastic pin on the lower end pulls out of the latch easily but the top part has me baffled.

 

The 'plunger' should be depressed and then the hook part can be pushed towards it and then the switch should pull free.

 

Do I have to remove the latch to do this?

 

Took the latch out - no part of the switch is visible or touchable. There has to be a way short of brute force to remove the switch?

 

Brute force is the answer. Switch tested OK, now I have a problem.

 

Have you checked the wires rubbing to the truck. Minevhadca break below the hindge which is a common failure.

 

Have you checked the wires running to the trunk? Mine had a break below the hinge which is a common failure.

 

This is problem we found regarding the Boot, maybe this could be the problem :
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Default Boot/Trunk Button inoperative, but key & dash button work OKThis is an addition to Race Diagnostics thread regarding the great info he provided and pics regarding the broken wire,wires in the loom from flexing of the harness. Just happened to me and search revealed that info plus other threads regarding the broken wires. I removed the lid liner on right side to gain access to the connector. Afterwards removed the rubber bung/plug and unplugged wire + connector thru the upper hole. Next removed the right side liner covering the CD and amp for access to the lower plug for that harness. Ran small cords thru the upper and another thru the lower holes where the harness was not accessible. Upon removal, was unable to visually determine problem due to the plastic tubing being solid, not split as usual. Took my sharp pointed knife and begin to split the tubing (Be Careful) from the end that goes up into the boot lid. I discovered the smaller dia. wire was totally broken near where it flexed. This wire is Pink/Blue tracer I think. The Red, Blue and Black were good and showed continuity. Added the shrink wrap,pushed it up the wire, and then soldered the wires back together. Heated the shrink wrap, reinstalled the wires into the convoluted tubing; then taped the ends to secure it (bung) and prevent it moving. Tested the continuity and all was good. Plugged the connectors with wiring loose inside the lid. Shut lid and the button operated as intended. Success. Next chore was to reinstall the harness back into its factory location, which the strings helped tremendously. To enable the rubber bungs or plugs install , spray silicone was used on the bung and hole. They slipped in with little effort. Reattached the mount on the lid hinge plus reinstalled the Fir Tree lid fasteners in to the liner. Lastly the CD trim cover was installed and job was complete. THANKS AGAIN to Race Diagnostics for ALL his posts regarding our XK8's.

 

^^ Great explanation of what to do and how to do it. Sure hope I can remember this post if I ever need it....

 

Gave up looking and put everything back together. Upon tightening the latch bolts, the lights came on!! Has to be the switch. Will replace next week.

 

Just installed new switch. Plunger MUST be depressed to install. Everything works fine now.

 

See post #2

 

With the new switch now operating many little gremlins fixed. Used to be that if the Valet switch was touched, had to disconnect battery to resolve. Now valet mode off when key opens trunk.

 

Again, a small (relative) problem quickly diagnosed by this panel of expert helpers. You guy and gals are the best!! TM