upper shock mounts in
Haha, do we get the same troubles at the same time? This seems too coordinated!
hmm
I've got the cricket orchestra at the present moment. I'm thinking of building my own shock mount bushing out of neoprene rubber. Much cheaper.
According to Oregon Jag's advice. (post # 4)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...spacer-104129/
But I think I'm going with a higher Durometer. What's the durometer stiffness of the stock shock mount?
hmm
I've got the cricket orchestra at the present moment. I'm thinking of building my own shock mount bushing out of neoprene rubber. Much cheaper.
According to Oregon Jag's advice. (post # 4)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...spacer-104129/
But I think I'm going with a higher Durometer. What's the durometer stiffness of the stock shock mount?
Last edited by giandanielxk8; Oct 9, 2013 at 10:02 PM.
Gian - interesting option and the last post even talks about using hockey pucks - Welsh does sell a kit which uses poly bushings instead of the foam - sells for $105 ea
When I made that hockey puck post, I browsed a couple of the posts. Apparently NHL regulation hockey pucks have a hardness specification ... something like 90'ish on the Shore Hardness Scale. The "something stage 1" handling kit for the VW was about the same hardness ... according to one post.
Someone pointed out that you can tune by buying kid's hockey pucks which are softer.
The search term was ... "hockey puck" "shore hardness"
They are used as bushings and even motor mounts on other makes.
They also make good jack pads. Not bad for $1 each in the spring ... more expensive during winter for obvious reasons
Someone pointed out that you can tune by buying kid's hockey pucks which are softer.
The search term was ... "hockey puck" "shore hardness"
They are used as bushings and even motor mounts on other makes.
They also make good jack pads. Not bad for $1 each in the spring ... more expensive during winter for obvious reasons
Last edited by plums; Oct 10, 2013 at 08:57 AM.
Phil - hope to complete in the next few days - do have the Capital City Concourse on Saturday so if not tomorrow then either Sun or Mon - yep will take measurements.
plums - saw that not sure how much softer they are from NHL regulation and one post even mentioned the difference between Stage 1 and Stage 2 was minimal - might be something to experiment with later
plums - saw that not sure how much softer they are from NHL regulation and one post even mentioned the difference between Stage 1 and Stage 2 was minimal - might be something to experiment with later
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Plums, I have a drawing of a spacer made to fit between the top of the bushing mount and the well.It shows the three bolt holes 65 mm from the center, and the od 145 mm. Is a hockey puck that big? Also, it looks like the maximum thickness would have to be less than 10 mm to allow the nuts to secure the mount.
And remember to get the car aligned. The renewal of the ride height will change the camber and camber always dramatcly affects toe. And toe being off is the number one wear angle.
Also the several poly kits ive used have sucked for longevity. Less than the oem. To the point i no longer recommend anything but the factory. I've had to redo several
Also the several poly kits ive used have sucked for longevity. Less than the oem. To the point i no longer recommend anything but the factory. I've had to redo several
thanks Brutal - hadn't even thought of needing an alignment
Phil - current ride height is at 14.5 inches both sides
Phil - current ride height is at 14.5 inches both sides
Last edited by sklimii; Oct 10, 2013 at 06:19 PM.
Plums, I have a drawing of a spacer made to fit between the top of the bushing mount and the well.It shows the three bolt holes 65 mm from the center, and the od 145 mm. Is a hockey puck that big? Also, it looks like the maximum thickness would have to be less than 10 mm to allow the nuts to secure the mount.
Official Rules - Rule 13: Puck - NHL.com - Rules
Regulation Ice Hockey Puck
$1.49
Here's my old post with the ride height chart on the first frame. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...se-lift-76446/
With normal being 15-3/4" you're as far down as I was at 14-1/2.
Measuring from the wheel center to the fender arch takes the tire variations out of the measurement.
Mike
With normal being 15-3/4" you're as far down as I was at 14-1/2.
Measuring from the wheel center to the fender arch takes the tire variations out of the measurement.
Mike
Here's my old post with the ride height chart on the first frame. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...se-lift-76446/
With normal being 15-3/4" you're as far down as I was at 14-1/2.
Measuring from the wheel center to the fender arch takes the tire variations out of the measurement.
Mike
With normal being 15-3/4" you're as far down as I was at 14-1/2.
Measuring from the wheel center to the fender arch takes the tire variations out of the measurement.
Mike
Now, in my head, I hope my plan works. My front is down exactly the same amount as you guys. I was lowering the rear anyway so now I'm actually using the front springs as well. I'm hoping by adding the new mounts, and new lowering springs it brings it up a bit more, but not all e way. And hopefully the rear lowered, all will even out.
well - jacked car up to replace the upper shock mount but soon discovered I need to replace the upper wishbone bushings and upper ball joint - parts on order - looks like my weekend will be busy.
no impact on height but does impact alignment and since you have to take apart the upper wishbone to remove the shock/spring assembly - only makes sense to replace what little I have left
Where did you order your upper bushing kit, and did you replace shocks at the same time?
when your old one is collapsed, it is alot lower. So much so that decent bumps will cause the tires to hit the wheel well liners. Theres has never been one i did that has an alignment in spec after replacing the upper mounts










