I replaced the upper control arm bushings. I was suprised that it was actually a fairly easy job, I expected worse. However, I can't tighten the nut on the ball joint on one side. The first side went ok, I struggled a little with the ball joint bolt spinning and then used a floor jack and raised the suspension up and the bolt on the ball joint stopped spinning and the nut tightened, but on the other side this wont work. Any suggestions? Btw, I don't have air or impact tools.

 

I think you are headed in the right direction by applying pressure to engage the taper of the joint more firmly in the hole. Try having a helper with a lever hold it as securely in the hole as they can while you tighten the nut. Without air tools, it might make things a bit more difficult, but I would think you can get it secure with handtools. You may want to put a bit of anti-seize, or maybe a lubricant, only on the threads to help the nut go on easier as well. Just something to try. Good luck!

 

I had the same problem, went to sears and bought a battery powered impact gun $95.00 works great 250 ft pound torque. I use it all the time now well worth it.

 

The threads need cleaning so the nut can run up freely. No need to remove the arm again as you can do this in situ.

First clean the threads with a wire brush. Grip the taper (arrowed in red) with a vice grip. Apply some anti-seize to the threads and fit the nut. Ideally use a new nut but a used one can be cleaned up OK. You may need to run it right up and down the threads a few times before it goes easily.



Once the nut goes freely, remove it and tap the joint back into position. The friction between the taper and the arm will be sufficient to prevent it rotating as you tighten the nut.

Graham

 

Graham's tip should work.
If the friction still isn't enough clean the taper and arm with acetone and superglue it in.
Just a few drops will do and it won't stop you breaking the taper if it needs to come apart in the future.

 

Steve,

A brilliant idea.

I'm filing that away in the memory bank for future reference.

Graham

 

Very kind - don't forget you're dealing with a STTM here
(shade tree TRACTOR mechanic)

 

Thank you to everyone for your ideas and suggestions. I have resolved the issue. As suggested, I tried threading the nut onto the ball joint with the control arm up, not seated. It would not go beyond the bottom thread of the nut. I damaged it popping the ball joint out, didn't have the nut up Hugh enough when whacking it from underneath. Ok, so I learned. I learned to get new nuts if I ever do this again. Thank you again for everyone's help, this forum is awesome.

BTW, I replaced the bushing, as far as I can tell original 78k miles, they seemed ok, nothing obvious, but who knows how much you can see. Anyhow, I used power flex, significant difference in overall steering wheel road feel. I would say more feel, but I like it. I can't say of course how different these are to OEM new bushings, would be interested to know. Anyhow, I like these.

Finally, HUGE thanks to Rev Sam for his videos (Parts 1 and 2) on the procedure, his headaches made this job seem very easy.