Hello all,

A quick question... hoping to benefit from your experience. My Xk8 seems to be a project certainly, after sitting for a few years. My main hurdle to driving pleasure though are the error codes, they will make the vehicle fail visual inspection from a smog station I believe.

The vehicle has only sat after being driven from it's resting place. I have topped off the oil, all other fluids are present. Car has been turned over every few days to ensure the battery is not draining, all is fine. Fires up and idles at 1k with some mild rpm dip/rise now and then. A/C is empty, A/C pump can be heard trying to click on as it idles.

Displays multiple errors, traction control, bonnet open... ABS light. Now today it displayed a gearbox error.

I have run my obd2 scanner and cleared codes... it has no effect.

So my assumption is that the ABS and ECU units have the bad capacitor issue and will need to be serviced/replaced? Would this be the first item to tackle in your opinions?

Thanks all...

 

When asking questions about codes ........ post the actual codes!

You can clear error codes but they will simply reset (mostly after two "trips") unless the causes of the faults are rectified.

The first item to tackle in my opinion is the battery. Have it tested and replaced if required. Many weird electrical/electronic faults in modern Jaguars are caused by a partially discharged or failing battery. Once the battery is eliminated as a possible cause, then you can get to grips with what will be genuine errors.

Graham

 

^^ What he said. Start with a new battery. That alone may clear some of your error codes....

 

You can guess and throw parts at the problem, or you can try and get better diagnostics upfront with a proper code reader, something Jaguar/Land Rover specific.This tool will likely pay off quickly. Double check whatever tool you buy is compatible with the early car. Once you ave actual codes, it is much easier to search this forum. Folks mention the iCarsoft all the time. Check eBay/Amazon. The Foxwell device I have starts support in 2001, I believe.

In the meantime, check the TSBs on jagrepair.com, especially for the instrument cluster (take whatever VIN ranges with a grain of salt). There was a rash of clusters with failed solder joints preventing the bus messages from going through. The IC is not hard to remove, and the TSB details the fix (basic soldering).

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

what are the code numbers that you have been clearing ? As pointed out, clearing the codes with a reader is not actually FIXING anything.

Z

PS also in 100% agreement with previous posts re the battery replacement, and keeping a maintenance type charger on it whenever the car is not being used overnight or longer, is very very very important. I use the Battery tender plus, others like the CTEK. Just use something.

Just because the car starts after sitting for a while does NOT mean the battery is 100%. In these cars the batter MUST be 100% at ALL times in order to avoid extraneous error codes.

 

Thank you all for the responses, I apologize for taking so long to respond... our family car just required maintenance so we can have fun this summer, but back into the xk8 project.

Firstly: This car sat with a dead battery. I installed a brand new battery as part of it's initial rescue. Car has been started every few days... with a week span... then every few days again. No issues cranking.

Codes: What I was referring to are the dash error lights. The ones I am currently enjoying are: Stability Control Fail - Poor Vehicle Performance - ABS Light. Also today I enjoyed a new one... the ASC light... while slowly climbing a hill or pulling into my driveway the ASC light would come on, flutter and turn off.. the car also felt like the trans was slipping while climbing a hill only while the light was fluttering.

Actual OBD2 Codes: Just P1000.

I recently drove this car about 1/2 mile roundtrip to top of the gas tank. It's longest drive in 5 years at least. No over heating, stalling issues. Drove it slowly as brake pressure isn't the greatest at this point. No codes after drive.

 

Just keep working thru the problem . You have the best help in the world here on this forum. Sometime it just takes a while to get it. I found out, Big thing is keep the the battery charged. Regardless of the little "Gas" Gauge. This is an electric car.

 

Please include the year of your car in the signature. Click on the User CP at the top of the page.

 

All your warnings usually come if you drop below 12V so many members keep the car on a battery tender even if standing for a just a few days.

Our cars are old and it wouldn’t be unusual for bits to work loose or corrode. 12V isn’t a lot to work with, and you can get voltage drops through bad connections.

You may have a new battery but did you check the battery connections, both ends. Take off, sand down contacts until bright and shiney and then use contact cleaner. Don’t touch the cleaned contacts as you re-connect.




I’ve also attached a pic of the opened HPP fuse box at the positive battery connection. This battery connection here must be clean and tight.