01 XK8, 100K miles, 04 XKR, 48K miles both incredibly well cared for...and others I'm aware of, are 100% predictable to crank a different number of rounds before starting each start. They never fire immediately, as I'm use to my cars doing, sometimes require an extended crank and rarely, partially "catch" and stammer for a short bit then smooth out. With the advent of electronic ignition, starting became invisible, in my experience. Now with my love of these awesome vehicles, starting is a concern and disconcerting, every time. Is there an explanation? In the XK8 it got much better after I reset with battery procedure but it quickly got rear ended and totalled after getting better. The reset didn't work with the XKR. MAF checks out fine at idol and higher revs, air and fuel filter are new, fuel pressure at start is about 53, plugs are almost new. Anyone have any thoughts on how I can bring this amazing XKR to fire immediately, every time, like my other cars including 4 Corvettes have for many years?

 

Maybe it’s time for your 5th Corvette ?

Z

 

I've been thinking about it and looking. But I was trying to get some honest input into this starting issue on these cats, they can't be that finicky, or maybe they are. How did you like your 70 Datsun? Back in the day I thought they were pretty hot. I had a 78 hatchback Datsun. It started and ran flawlessly without issue for 140,000 miles. Any thoughts on the starting thing?

 

I Don’t have much of an observation, only that these cars that are driven every day tend to be more reliable. My ‘02 XKR is my daily driver, and has been starting driving without any drama.

Z

PS the Datsun was a fun car, an early serial number car too; #882 . It did have the bad habit of shedding the front stock hub caps every time you took a corner over 40 mph. They were on tight as possible, didn’t help.

I ended up getting a set of mags to fix the problem.

 

Aging grounds and electrical connections... Be my guess.

 

do you live in a high humidity / high precipitation area by any chance ?


Z

 

High humidity and fair amount of rain here at the beach, but it stays in the garage most of the time and it's akways completely dry when I take it out. Whst are you thinking?

 

Oh shoot! A million years ago I had a 69 or 70 240z... I was even worse with cars THEN than I am now... It went the funky way and I sold it or gave it away. Recently, I've been thinking about how much I regret that... Duel Webber (I think) carbs, straight six, signal red like my XJS with black interior. Floors had disintegrated before I had it. I was only 18 or 19 at the time. Was simply in over my head. I would love to have it back!

 

Just in general terms the accelerating corroding effect of airborne moisture on electrical connectors, and wiring in general.

Without more to go on, error codes, etc. you are likely starting down a path of examining the electrical system for unwanted resistance or intermittent connection issues. I’d be first checking to be sure I had full battery voltage everywhere that needs it with key on but motor not started yet.

From there you can check for resistance along circuits where there shouldn’t be any .

Not very glamorous, I know. If I were in your shoes I’d be very tempted to just keep driving until the hard starting became something more serious and likely easier to trace.

Z

 

Does the 2004 XKR have 2 fuel pumps? I've read all XKR’s have 2 for heavy acceleration and I've read in 2004 they did away with 2 fuel pumps on the XKR and made other fuel delivery improvements. 2 or 1? Thank you.

 

Not 100% certain , but I believe only the 4.0 XKR’s had the two fuel pump layout.


Z

 

The 4.2L cars have a single pump.

 

An expert I called upon clarified 2004 XKR has 1 fuel pump. Thank you

 

If the car never stumbles while running and if you shut it off and can immediately restart without issue, then you’ve likely got a bad check valve in the pump assembly.

It is a common-ish problem and the valve is a stupid design with a propensity to fail. The check valve is supposed to prevent fuel draining back to the tank from the fuel rail, but when it goes bad the residual engine heat will push the fuel back when you shut it down for an hour or so. This behavior is somewhere between annoying and embarrassing but ultimately not harmful.

If you also have issues while driving (stumbles or quits while moving) then you might have an electrical problem. Been there.

 

Thank you. I dont have stumbling or failue while driving. No lights or messages. Im going to do a hard reset with negative touching positive and key in on position and see if it will improve.
thank you

 

Also worth using OBD to see if any sensor (IAT, ECT, ...) is clearly at fault as they affect fuelling.

 

No codes except the one everyone says is normal, p1000 I think was the code. Thank you.

 

P1111 is the OBDII code which indicates there are no issues and all monitors are cleared and reset....