Hi guys,

Can anyone post the JTIS for replacing lower ball joints please. (Have not figured out how to run them on Mac with wine bottle)

I have both lower ball joints to replace, got them from Welsh.
Would like to change on vehicle if poss but can remove lower control arm if necessary.

Would really like to read through JTIS first so I get an idea of what I'm gonna run into and torque settings etc.


Thank you

 

JTIS 60.35.02 : Front Lower Arm & Rear Lower Arm Assembly:

JTIS - XK8 Front Lower Arm & Rear Lower Arm Assembly.pdf

Graham

 

Hi David,


I replaced the lower ball joints on our 2001 XKR, though I did not try to do it in the car. I actually replaced every other front end part, so I had every part out of the front end anyway. I do feel that removing the lower arm will be the best way to do this job, though. Also, it will be easier to take the lower arm apart as well. Once you are at that point, the lower ball joint is as easy to remove as the upper once you cut off two parallel sections of the ball joint flange so you can, ideally, place the arm on a press to press out the ball joint. Pressing the new ball joint in using a press is not nearly as straightforward as the upper, though, since there is a compound angle that you have to deal with instead of a flat, parallel surface as you have with the upper joint. I ended up making a fixture to hold the arm correctly and it worked quite well. I am sure others on the forum, especially the pro techs, will have good ideas on how to do this, though this worked for me. It was a good challenge and now the car handles great! I have attached a pic of the fixture with the arm in it.
Have fun!
Bill


2000 XKR Coupe
2001 XKR Coupe
2002 XK8 Coupe
2002 XKR 100 Coupe
2002 XJR 100

 

I had a local shop do the job for me on my 1997 XK8 cost $30. I just took the whole lower arm to them, didn't bother taking it apart.

 

What was the part numbers for the upper and lower ball Joints (bushings)?I recently changed the upper and lower shock bushings on my 2000 XKR Went to get it aligned and the alignment shop said it wasn't out of alignment but did need new lower Ball Joints and said I may as well change them all. I would like to do that but it seems there is a reference to different parts as far as the lower joints.

 

The upper balljoint part # is JLM21380, and is relatively straightforward to replace.

Lower is reputedly MNC1350AA. Jaguar will only supply the control arm complete ($$$), although non-OEM joints are not difficult to source. Removing the old ones is again straightforward, but pressing the new in is challenging, as you will see from above.

Do check the control arm bushings 'while you're in there'

 

Thank you for your help. Will buy both upper and lower and the bushings. thanks

 

My neighbor and I removed all the control arms and pressed the joints out of the right side with a large c clamp and heat after we damaged a 6 ton press trying to get them out. We took the 6 ton back to Harbor Freight and got a refund and bought a 12 ton and a metal wedge to go under the angle of the control are that is slanted. We haven't tried to press them out yet. The tie rod ends will be here tomorrow and we will try our luck at pressing out all bushings and joints and putting everything back in. Figured it would cost as much as the press to take them to a machine shop to have them pressed out. Hope so.

 

Hal,
You will need some way to stop the wedge and the control arm from sliding apart when you push the new lower ball joint in. I did mine over the weekend:- it took about 8 tons in the press to get them fully home.

There have been several ingenious solutions including the one above from B&DWoolley (which I mostly copied) and these:

ungn:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1396395

RaceDiagnostics:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e3/#post705064

A thread by phtole:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1761174


Separately, I've attached a TSB (kindly provided by motorcarman) that shows the official way to R & R the bushings. IMO the method shown in JTIS (and all the workshop manuals I've seen) for removing the old ones is incorrect as they all appear to refer to the early nylon-cased versions. It may be possible to fracture off the flange on the later steel varieties in a press but I wouldn't like to try it.

Good luck.