My XK8 had sat on my driveway since last Thursday, with sub-zero temparatures over the weekend followed by rain. I got into it yesterday morning and it started instantly. Unfortunately it stopped almost as quickly and it was obvious that cranking it was just going to drain the battery. I concluded that the fuel pump wasn't working, so after work I checked the fuses and relay and confirmed they were ok.

Today I rang my friendly local independant Jaguar specialist who confirmed my diagnosis, so I started my research into replacing the pump - some great information on the forum.

This evening, when my son got home I asked him to turn the ignition on while I had my head in the boot (trunk) to listen for the pump. Unfortunately the lure of the Jag is too much for him and he cranked it as well, but no sound of the pump. I asked him to do it again, but without cranking the engine. This time a click, followed by a whir and the pump was working again. I took it for a 12 mile run and everything seems fine again.

Have I got a self repairing pump, or can anyone shed any light as to why it may have failed and then worked again? All suggestions welcomed.

As an aside, looking at the problems of replacing a pump, the main issues appear to revolve around removing the tank (all examples seem to be convertibles). Is this necessary on a coupe, as I thought there was access from above, beneath the sub-woofer.

 

Brush type motors like the fuel pump are know to sometimes fail intermittently. In addition, the 'link lead' wires (including the inline electrical noise filter module) feeding the pump in the tank are sized very marginally, and sometimes begins to burn up, especially if the pump is not running well and pulling excess current.

It is best to replace the lot. An easier job in the coupe.

 

This link has photos of how to replace the fuel pumps through the subwoofer. And I believe an ebay listing for a bosch pump . https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...bwoofer-70631/ I also used JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
I think you'll find what you need between these two links.

 

The pump failed again a couple of days later, so I had the car recovered to my local independent specialist. The electrical connections were all ok, so one new pump and filter were fitted and all is well. The cat is purring nicely.

 

My wife owns a 2002 XK8 soft-top. Has about 120,000 miles up.

So far I've replaced the throttle body, the nasty plastic thermostat housing,a leak in the octopus hose and replaced the valve cover gaskets.

Last week the car died in the driveway after being re-started. Did a fuel
pressure test no fuel pressure. Replaced fuel filter still no fuel pressure.
Checked relays fuses inertia switch etc. Will start on Easy Start but not
otherwise, cannot hear fuel pump. Conclude that fuel pump is kippered.

Hop on Flying Pigeon ( English Gentlemans Roadster ) bicycle and pedal
to auto parts store, purchase pump $90 and two 5 gal gas cans. Pedal
back handlebars come loose crash into large bush.

Peruse video on tank/pump removal get stuck in. Remove all bits but cannot access the fuel pipe connection under the car. Enlist neigbour
( ex-tank mechanic ) we manage to wriggle tank forward just enough
to remove blue thingy from top of tank. Reach into tank and undo one pump securing bolt then find that other bolt has rounded and nothing in our tool collections will shift it.

I am contemplating cutting an access "hatch" in the rear face of the tank so I can get at the bolt and the pump. After the new pump has been installed a plate secured with permatex or jb weld and possibly bolted
as well would close off the hole. Welding or brazing not really being an option with the tank still in the car.

Comments advice please

 

You should be able to get the fuel line connections out of the tank. Get a fuel line disconnect set for about $10 from any auto parts store. Use the 3/8" disconnect tool from the set. If you made the long custom tool from plastic pipe described in the video, use that tool, or a very long screwdriver to push the real disconnect tool into the tank to release the pipe.

 

Since you ask ... it is a truly bad idea ... find another way

 

Anything you use to cut a hole in the tank will generate sparks Even it the tank is bone dry it will EXPLODE.Remember it is the Vapor that burns not the liquid. You would have to fill it with water or an inert gas. the problem with water is your trunk will need drying out and all the electrical stuff will get wet. Inert gas you can't tell when it leaks out.
On my XKR I replaced the 2 pumps one had a screw stripped to get it out I used a stubby flathead screw driver to pry up and used a 1/4 inch drive with I think a 6mm socket and it took an hour to get it out. I then retapped the hole and used a new bolt.

 

Gosh, I misread the post...I thought he was going to cut a hole in the deck to get better access to the tank, not the tank itself.

I agree with the others...do not cut the tank!

 

years ago a friend told me of an old trick he uses on electric fuel pumps that are on their way out.seems alot of times they are intermitent on there way out,and develop a flat spot inside the pump.so if your stranded take your fist,or a rubber mallet[prefered],and smack the tank,as it will jar the pump.hopefully it will then work.he told me of this trick after i told him of my breakdown 90 miles from home,in my xk8...stev.

 

Yes, I tried that trick, but unfortunately, in my case it didn't work.

 

Additional points to the very useflul prior threads on this subject, after doing this over the weekend:

The difficult part is indeed removing the fuel lines from the front bottom of tank from under the car. Get/find/borrow time on- a lift, I cant imagine the pain in the *** doing this from the floor under jack stands.
The collar on the plastic tool for removal of the lines did not reach deep enough on the right side line, and it has to get on there exactly coaxially. I had no luck with the pvc pipe tool suggested by others, couldn't get it to fit on. Finally I purchased a midget set of aluminum removal tools from auto-zone, in addition to the plastic set. $19.95 and totally worth it. You can get this tool on, in the tight confines, if it faces one particular orientation. Then push it with a long screwdriver or small crows foot socket on the end of a long extension. The 3/8" diameter tool is the one. getting a piece of thin but unbreakable twine around the 90 degree elbow in that right fuel line(return) helps to be able to put pulling tension on the line as you push the release tool forward. A nuisance to get the twine in there, but it was worth it. Otherwaise I couldnt get fingers of left hand in to pull the line while pushing the tool. Areal pain.
Putting the lines back in was less problematic , you will feel a click when they engage. Still an unbelievable pain.

pull the gas door locking mechanism for sure. It will definitely break when you pull the tank back, from the filler neck hitting it. The tank fits in the space so tightly it is just a really bad design, similar to electrical fixture boxes that are just 2 mm smaller than necessary to accomadate their contained parts.Pay attention to the way the plastic nut engages 1/4 turn only on the filler cap cover lock, and the orientation , it will pop open the door only one way. Leave it connected, and let it fall down on trunk floor out of the way.

release the right sided wiring harness from the annoying stuck body plastic hold-downs for sure, and pull wires gently forward , Wrap with a thin rubber or other protection, and tape it onthe harness to keep it from falling off, wedge another thin rubber pad over the tank flange, it will definitely cut and damage multiple 22 gage wires in the harness when you pull the tank back, without question.

Lift up the short rubber hoses on the fuel tank module after removing all six clamps out of the way,lift the edges of the hoses with a sharp right angle pick, and squirt some kroil or other penetrant oil in the space so the rubber hoses get moveable. Otherwise you'll never get the hoses off the module tubes.

The rest of the work is easy. The attaching screw that holds the pump inside the tank is a pain. Carefully loosen with a 8mm socket on along extension, don't strip it.