An XK8 Project (1999MY)
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#64
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Rezzz (01-02-2015)
#65
Trans In
Ok so the trans went in on the weekend and I was able to install the new combination dip stick - fill tube from 5HP24 Dip Stick
#72
Thanks. Yes I did them. This is not a difficult task. The seat covers come from Convertible Tops, Headliners, Convertible Top Parts, and OEM Seat Covers , there are a number of posts on the forum on this, fit is excellent in my opinion. Just be careful if you in colder climate and attempting this work the plastic fitting, covers, etc become brittle. I have a fully heated garage so it all worked well.
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JagSlave (03-04-2021)
#73
And did you happen to notice if there were abnormalities in the gear marking pattern?
For example, favouring the heel?
#75
Still At it
Rear suspension is complete, rear brakes completed. New valve cover seals and plugs in. Throttle body on this weekend and starting the Cat up for a little spin around the lot most of the snow starting to melt off. Then back on the hoist for the front suspension removal and re-furbish. Body Shop hopefully by first week of April. Fingers and toes crossed.
#76
Keep up the good work maybe a little inspiration for you! Spring is coming!
Just a word about the aluminum cooling tower. I could not keep the cap sealed, so I ended up using the original cap off the plastic tower, no leaks.
I also insulated the fuel line right behind the aluminum tower. That tower gets incredibly hot.
This engine shot was before I changed the cooling tower so you cannot see the insulation on the Fuel line. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-2575/
I had my seats recovered. The photo appears to show the leathers is a little loose. When mine were covered we added extra foam to take up the "baggy" cover. We did this because of the original foam compressing over years of use. Mainly on the wear area's center seat and center back and head. Just an observation. I do not mean to imply any negative vibes!
Just a word about the aluminum cooling tower. I could not keep the cap sealed, so I ended up using the original cap off the plastic tower, no leaks.
I also insulated the fuel line right behind the aluminum tower. That tower gets incredibly hot.
This engine shot was before I changed the cooling tower so you cannot see the insulation on the Fuel line. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-2575/
I had my seats recovered. The photo appears to show the leathers is a little loose. When mine were covered we added extra foam to take up the "baggy" cover. We did this because of the original foam compressing over years of use. Mainly on the wear area's center seat and center back and head. Just an observation. I do not mean to imply any negative vibes!
Last edited by daddyo007; 03-11-2015 at 11:35 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Rezzz (03-12-2015)
#77
Keep up the good work maybe a little inspiration for you! Spring is coming!
Just a word about the aluminum cooling tower. I could not keep the cap sealed, so I ended up using the original cap off the plastic tower, no leaks.
I also insulated the fuel line right behind the aluminum tower. That tower gets incredibly hot.
This engine shot was before I changed the cooling tower so you cannot see the insulation on the Fuel line. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-2575/
I had my seats recovered. The photo appears to show the leathers is a little loose. When mine were covered we added extra foam to take up the "baggy" cover. We did this because of the original foam compressing over years of use. Mainly on the wear area's center seat and center back and head. Just an observation. I do not mean to imply any negative vibes!
Just a word about the aluminum cooling tower. I could not keep the cap sealed, so I ended up using the original cap off the plastic tower, no leaks.
I also insulated the fuel line right behind the aluminum tower. That tower gets incredibly hot.
This engine shot was before I changed the cooling tower so you cannot see the insulation on the Fuel line. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-2575/
I had my seats recovered. The photo appears to show the leathers is a little loose. When mine were covered we added extra foam to take up the "baggy" cover. We did this because of the original foam compressing over years of use. Mainly on the wear area's center seat and center back and head. Just an observation. I do not mean to imply any negative vibes!
#78
Upholstery foam is best. If you can find a small shop get some pieces of 1/4"/6mm; 3/8"/9mm; and 1/2"/12mm. It took us several tries to get it right. The key to it was to not stress the cinch points to the point that the new covers might start to prematurely rip. It was one of those moments when you know when to much is to much. Its kind of like when you are cutting something with a knife and you draw the blade towards you and just before it slips and slices you wide open you wise up and stop knowing you should.
You might be able to just grab at the leather and pull it out you might get a feel of how much foam you should add.
If memory serves me right we added the foam to the surfaces and not on any of the edges. The edge seams of the leather cover should still be at the edges of the seat and back form.
Hope all this makes sense!
You might be able to just grab at the leather and pull it out you might get a feel of how much foam you should add.
If memory serves me right we added the foam to the surfaces and not on any of the edges. The edge seams of the leather cover should still be at the edges of the seat and back form.
Hope all this makes sense!
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Rezzz (03-17-2015)
#79
Rear suspension is complete, rear brakes completed. New valve cover seals and plugs in. Throttle body on this weekend and starting the Cat up for a little spin around the lot most of the snow starting to melt off. Then back on the hoist for the front suspension removal and re-furbish. Body Shop hopefully by first week of April. Fingers and toes crossed.
How did it drive when you took it out before the front end work?
#80
You're getting to the body shop before me I'm waiting for a new pinion flange for the diff. Then the rear end will go back in. I'm replacing the timing chains and primary tensioners (already did the secondary).
How did it drive when you took it out before the front end work?
How did it drive when you took it out before the front end work?
It drove well thanks. Good to see I'm not the only one investing time and money into one of these older ladies. I didn't have to do the chains and tensioners the motor had been replaced under an extended warranty in 2002 with new crate engine believe it or not. Best of luck to you that work I would imagine is not easily completed