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This problem has been around for a couple of years, and it is always the front left sensor fault that shows up on the code reader.
And here's the 'but' thing...
First of all I am an electronics' technician (or at least I used to be) so I know my way around pieces of wire.
The things I have done are;
Check the connections, including re-soldering the power connections, in the ABS module.
Installed new Speed Sensors front left and right.
Replaced both front speed sensor cables.
Wiggled, jiggled, stretched and bent said cables with front wheels full left, full right, straight ahead.
Checked and cleaned the castellated speed ring.
Checked both front wheel bearings.
Ran out of ideas!
The fault/code usually clears when the engine is turned off and is ok for a period of time after starting
again. I have yet to notice any particular circumstance that causes the problem to reappear again.
A nuisance problem more than anything, but I am sure that I join most of you owners out there that
can't abide problems of any sort with their cars.
I had a similar issue, same wheel. Found it by sticking the meter on ohms across the pins at the ABS plug to look at the sender resistance, then doing the wiggle and stretch. It was the socket at the car end of the cable/sender
I would also do a drag test on the pin sockets in case someone has been poking with some too big poking things
The 2001 XK8 will require a JLM21323 ABS control module.(the part number printed on the ABS cover is NOT the actual Jaguar part number)
You can fit ANY 4.0liter XJ8 or XK8 ABS module 2000MY onward.
They are all 9 valve (6 pipe) control modules with 9 BLUE solenoids. (Traction Control)
I have several control modules with a PERMANENT C1155 DTC logged in the module that will NOT clear in any car I put them in.
I just wrote C1155 on them and tossed them in a broken part pile.
Last year 2020 the problem with abs/traction control was intermittent then by fall, stayed on all the time. I used my code reader & found all speed sensors were good having speed registered at all 4 wheels. So after reading & searching the web, many suggested the ABS module & shared their tactics to access & solve bad solder joints. Anyway, since car was to be parked & stored for winter I decided to pull the unit off. Instead of cutting cover off, what I did was drilled a 5/8 hole above the trouble zone to have access & cold solder the joints. But! there is a tiny capacitor beige with blue stripe right beside the 2 pins that may be another cause for failure. Only visible with a magnified glass so yes, very small. It was re-soldered as well. Anyway, spring has sprung, I have since re-assembled, flushed the brake fluid & car has been on the road for over 3 weeks now.... No more unwanted dash lights or messages !! P.S. I used a rubber panel plug insert with a little silicone to re-seal hole. Happy Wife, Happy Life !
The 2001 XK8 will require a JLM21323 ABS control module.(the part number printed on the ABS cover is NOT the actual Jaguar part number)
You can fit ANY 4.0liter XJ8 or XK8 ABS module 2000MY onward.
They are all 9 valve (6 pipe) control modules with 9 BLUE solenoids. (Traction Control)
I have several control modules with a PERMANENT C1155 DTC logged in the module that will NOT clear in any car I put them in.
I just wrote C1155 on them and tossed them in a broken part pile.
I'd like to pick your brain on my ABS module. I sent it to Module Repair Pros in Van Nuys. As they advertise they got it back to me quickly. Good for that. But as I inspect the sealed module I am puzzled. The first thing I noticed is the small circle clips that hold the CB to the solenoid half are not there. It seems to be sealed really well, but I remember specifically putting those back on tight after I had done the re-soldering that obviously was not the "fix". Maybe it's OK, but I like to be sure no heat or vibration will let that CB come loose.
THat brings me to the module label and designations. The part number is the same: LJA2210BH. (1997 XK8). But after the words "CONTROL-UNIT" there is also "ABS + ETCS". I don't have Traction control as far as I know, and I don't remember that "+ETCS" designation being there. It's a 6 port module with FIVE brake lines coming in. I am concerned about this being my original....or one that will not end up causing other issues.
They did not include any information about what they did or what was wrong. The $100 plus shipping both ways is fine, but I want to be sure its going to work and solve my lighted up dash and lack of any speedo/odo. I did message them via eBay, but haven't heard back. I forgot to ask if the module was tested, but I'm pretty sure they'd do that.
So, do you think the "ABS + ETCS" is important? Any reservations before I reinstall it?
There is only one ABS module for the 1997 XK8 EXCEPT TRACTION CONTROL JLM20129. (LJA2210BH written on case)
The NINE valve units should also have +DSC as well as ABS and ETCS
The little metal clips are not required and they were DELETED on later control units. (I discard them when I cut open the case)
There is only one ABS module for the 1997 XK8 EXCEPT TRACTION CONTROL JLM20129. (LJA2210BH written on case)
The NINE valve units should also have +DSC as well as ABS and ETCS
The little metal clips are not required and they were DELETED on later control units. (I discard them when I cut open the case)
Thank You! I'm just trying to avoid any issues BEFORE I reinstall the module.
NOW.....you described testing the module without actually installing it. I think you said it could be hooked to the two connectors, and you put the unit near the fender. That puzzled me because the harness with the big multi-pin connector is held down very firmly and can't be extended. The two pin connector for the pump is only about 4" long and can't reach anywhere. If I could get a new wire and head I'd extend it about 4 more inches so it wouldn't be so hard to get in and out, but for now it's only long enough to barely reach the module after it is installed. Maybe you have a way that works.
The last thing is the brake lines. Mine are bent/formed really close to the module and the pump. If I can get the connections together, do I have to have the brake lines screwed down tight? They are definitely in the way of the power and CB connectors. I would only hook the module up and turn the key on to see if all the lights went out. I don't think I would need to start the engine....right?
I hope I made sense. Not the best pic, but you can see how tightly this all fits.
This thread is very helpful to me as I live fairly close to Van Nuys! I spoke with the company and they say they will replace the module for a fitting fee of $100. They need the part number for my ABS unit but I am not near the vehicle. Does any have the correct part number for 2001 convertible xk8 which has traction control and anti skid?
(I notice it was mentioned in the thread that the number listed on the outside of the unit is not the actual part number)
many thanks
Thank You! I'm just trying to avoid any issues BEFORE I reinstall the module.
NOW.....you described testing the module without actually installing it. I think you said it could be hooked to the two connectors, and you put the unit near the fender. That puzzled me because the harness with the big multi-pin connector is held down very firmly and can't be extended. The two pin connector for the pump is only about 4" long and can't reach anywhere. If I could get a new wire and head I'd extend it about 4 more inches so it wouldn't be so hard to get in and out, but for now it's only long enough to barely reach the module after it is installed. Maybe you have a way that works.
The last thing is the brake lines. Mine are bent/formed really close to the module and the pump. If I can get the connections together, do I have to have the brake lines screwed down tight? They are definitely in the way of the power and CB connectors. I would only hook the module up and turn the key on to see if all the lights went out. I don't think I would need to start the engine....right?
I hope I made sense. Not the best pic, but you can see how tightly this all fits.
The sedans are easy to fit the module next to the fitted one and connect it electrically.
You will likely need to unbolt the unit to lift it slightly on the X100? (been a while since I worked on one for this test)
I just lift them to replace the faulty one and reinstall. I never had one fail after I repaired it for a C1095.
I have a few with C1155 HARD FAULT that would not clear on any car that was proven to NOT have a problem with a speed sensor or circuit wiring.
I just toss them and move on.
The sedans are easy to fit the module next to the fitted one and connect it electrically.
You will likely need to unbolt the unit to lift it slightly on the X100? (been a while since I worked on one for this test)
I just lift them to replace the faulty one and reinstall. I never had one fail after I repaired it for a C1095.
I have a few with C1155 HARD FAULT that would not clear on any car that was proven to NOT have a problem with a speed sensor or circuit wiring.
I just toss them and move on.
Thank you. I'll just re-install it.
I got an interesting message back from Module Repair Pros. "After installation erase all the history trouble codes stored in every computer on the vehicle (important) using appropriate scan tool." THEN: "....you did mention that mechanic tried to "program" the module to the vehicle. Hopefully, he did not corrupt the original programming. This is not something that can be fixed on the distance."
The Jag shop didn't attempt to re-program or program because they could not communicate with the module at all. So they said.
I have a cheap scanner that can delete codes like the P1637, and maybe the P1798 and P1799....not sure about others. There were NO "C" codes,and the rest were modules(s) for other "B" code things that seem to work fine. I gave up on the iCarsoft 2.0 because it would not accept the downloaded upgrade for Jaguars. Am I OK to use the scanner I have and hit "delete all"? The battery is unhooked and will be fully charged when I reconnect it.
I've never read of guys who reinstalled their repaired units saying anything about clearing ALL codes before putting power back to their modules. But at this point I don't want to bugger up anything. I think it was a simple repair by inspecting and correcting any solder joints or other connections.
Ken
Last edited by oldjaglover; Nov 22, 2021 at 01:45 PM.
You cannot really 'reprogram' the 4.0 liter ABS modules, you can only configure them to the car (CAN bus) so they will be recognized.
The software is 'built-in' as far as the solenoid operation is concerned.
The WDS or IDS will read and clear as well as configure to the CAN bus. I don't use anything else so I don't have recommendation for alternate diagnostic devises.
You cannot really 'reprogram' the 4.0 liter ABS modules, you can only configure them to the car (CAN bus) so they will be recognized.
The software is 'built-in' as far as the solenoid operation is concerned.
The WDS or IDS will read and clear as well as configure to the CAN bus. I don't use anything else so I don't have recommendation for alternate diagnostic devises.
What's the difference between WDS and IDS scanners....other than price and features(?)?