Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
And here we go
And here we go
0 2022/11/19 04:55:48
Double-sided 3M-like clear sticky tape...
Double-sided 3M-like clear sticky tape...
0 2022/11/19 04:55:46
And when ever doing straight cuts add this "special feature" to reduce vibration.
And when ever doing straight cuts add this "special feature" to reduce vibration.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:44
I am not sure if anybody ever attempted before to cut out a tiny circle with an angel-grinder - but it is possible - obviously wear a full face-mask.
I am not sure if anybody ever attempted before to cut out a tiny circle with an angel-grinder - but it is possible - obviously wear a full face-mask.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:41
0.4mm stainless steel. First I used cardboard to make a template over the 2 plastic parts (2 attempts), then I transferred the shape onto the stainless steel.
0.4mm stainless steel. First I used cardboard to make a template over the 2 plastic parts (2 attempts), then I transferred the shape onto the stainless steel.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:39
That's the result... And I just love the Jag-emblem in the middle. My inspiration for that was the Ferrari horse in the same spot on a Ferrari.
That's the result... And I just love the Jag-emblem in the middle. My inspiration for that was the Ferrari horse in the same spot on a Ferrari.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:36
It's a 1976 Jag
It's a 1976 Jag
0 2022/11/12 03:47:12
It's a Jag Ute project car
It's a Jag Ute project car
0 2022/11/12 03:47:10
Van
Van
0 2022/11/11 01:32:53
On the back it says on the left: "This is a (Mazda) E2000", and on the right: "...thus it's an E-Type ;) " and I added the jumping leaper emblem... On the front it says just E2000 and on the right just "E-Type ;) "
On the back it says on the left: "This is a (Mazda) E2000", and on the right: "...thus it's an E-Type ;) " and I added the jumping leaper emblem... On the front it says just E2000 and on the right just "E-Type ;) "
0 2022/11/10 15:17:45
Originally this ride-on came in orange - so I just had to respray it - so which colour, if not racing green? ;)
Originally this ride-on came in orange - so I just had to respray it - so which colour, if not racing green? ;)
0 2022/11/10 03:57:59
Better!
Better!
0 2022/11/08 03:48:41
And while others release the tension of the tensioner (when installing the new drive belt) from underneath, I did it from the top, making my "special tool" even more special: After pulling the ratchet via the pipe extension up, I stuck a huge screwdriver into that pipe to arrest the tensioned in that position, which allowed me to very comfortably and slowly bring the drive belt into position (the correct position after 1 failed attempt in the wrong position (see top of thread).
And while others release the tension of the tensioner (when installing the new drive belt) from underneath, I did it from the top, making my "special tool" even more special: After pulling the ratchet via the pipe extension up, I stuck a huge screwdriver into that pipe to arrest the tensioned in that position, which allowed me to very comfortably and slowly bring the drive belt into position (the correct position after 1 failed attempt in the wrong position (see top of thread).
0 2022/11/08 03:48:40
And another "special tool" to fix pulley 6. Btw.: the space is that limited around pulley 2 and 3 that it is possible only to just get a special tool in to loosen or fasten the bolt - the rest of the action (screwing out and in) is best done with the two pointer-fingers of your two hands.
And another "special tool" to fix pulley 6. Btw.: the space is that limited around pulley 2 and 3 that it is possible only to just get a special tool in to loosen or fasten the bolt - the rest of the action (screwing out and in) is best done with the two pointer-fingers of your two hands.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:38
All 3 pulleys are "better" now... ;). Btw.: Since removing the 3 pulleys form the car, I took special care not to mix up the bits and pieces (bolts / washers, etc.) associated with each pulley.
All 3 pulleys are "better" now... ;). Btw.: Since removing the 3 pulleys form the car, I took special care not to mix up the bits and pieces (bolts / washers, etc.) associated with each pulley.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:36
This would be the easiest and best way to get the new bearing back into the pulleys: A hydraulic press, and I press the new bearing in with the old one on top, and then I remove the old one afterwards again.
This would be the easiest and best way to get the new bearing back into the pulleys: A hydraulic press, and I press the new bearing in with the old one on top, and then I remove the old one afterwards again.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:34
I did the research at home to make life for the guys at the bearing shop easier: both smooth idler pulley had the same bearing (I found that it is 6203-2rs, they sold me 6203 C 2HRS by FAG), and the grooved one (I found that it is 6303-2rs, they sold me 6303 C 2HRS by FAG).
I did the research at home to make life for the guys at the bearing shop easier: both smooth idler pulley had the same bearing (I found that it is 6203-2rs, they sold me 6203 C 2HRS by FAG), and the grooved one (I found that it is 6303-2rs, they sold me 6303 C 2HRS by FAG).
0 2022/11/08 03:48:31
Left the bearing of pulley 6, and right of the one, which was stuck completely: No. 2. Both obviously disintegrated already. The bearing of pulley No. 3, the grooved one, did not look that bad, but I swapped it as well - for good measure.
Left the bearing of pulley 6, and right of the one, which was stuck completely: No. 2. Both obviously disintegrated already. The bearing of pulley No. 3, the grooved one, did not look that bad, but I swapped it as well - for good measure.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:29
That's how to remove the pulleys.
That's how to remove the pulleys.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:27
That is the cleaned up idler pulley no. 2, already with the new bearing - but you can still see the discoloration at the inner backside: That spot got really hot, while the pulley did not rotate anymore (friction heat).
That is the cleaned up idler pulley no. 2, already with the new bearing - but you can still see the discoloration at the inner backside: That spot got really hot, while the pulley did not rotate anymore (friction heat).
0 2022/11/08 03:48:25
...every mm extra space helps: I removed that connector, to get another mm of access-space. And as you can see I created another "special tool" to release the tension by using a "welded solid" 3/8 ratchet and a pipe extension to move the tensioner to the back of the car. There is not sufficient space for a normal ratchet, hence I used mine, which broke a long time ago and I welded the mechanism together (results in less height). HOWEVER, I saw meanwhile, that you do that normally from underneath
...every mm extra space helps: I removed that connector, to get another mm of access-space. And as you can see I created another "special tool" to release the tension by using a "welded solid" 3/8 ratchet and a pipe extension to move the tensioner to the back of the car. There is not sufficient space for a normal ratchet, hence I used mine, which broke a long time ago and I welded the mechanism together (results in less height). HOWEVER, I saw meanwhile, that you do that normally from underneath
0 2022/11/08 03:48:23
I had to be inventive and create various "special tools", which would allow be to loosen the hex-bolts of the three idler pulleys. Accessing some from above and some from below - and "below" means: Remove the right frt. wheel (plus I removed the rotor and brake disks for the purpose of cleaning the lot), and then remove the plastic splash shield behind the wheel.
I had to be inventive and create various "special tools", which would allow be to loosen the hex-bolts of the three idler pulleys. Accessing some from above and some from below - and "below" means: Remove the right frt. wheel (plus I removed the rotor and brake disks for the purpose of cleaning the lot), and then remove the plastic splash shield behind the wheel.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:21
And this is a picture, where you see how NOT to install the drive belt later on. It is very tempting to do it that way, as it seems more logical, plus, you only note the difference when you see the right and wrong way next to each other. Doing it the wrong way results in less tension on the belt and rubs the belt against itself to the effect that your ears are being blown off...
And this is a picture, where you see how NOT to install the drive belt later on. It is very tempting to do it that way, as it seems more logical, plus, you only note the difference when you see the right and wrong way next to each other. Doing it the wrong way results in less tension on the belt and rubs the belt against itself to the effect that your ears are being blown off...
0 2022/11/08 03:48:19
As it is not possible to take a picture of all the pulleys due to the space restriction, and as it really difficult to find a sketch on the net, I created a sketch myself - more a Picasso than a Rembrandt, but it does the trick. I removed the idler pulleys 2, 3 and 6.
As it is not possible to take a picture of all the pulleys due to the space restriction, and as it really difficult to find a sketch on the net, I created a sketch myself - more a Picasso than a Rembrandt, but it does the trick. I removed the idler pulleys 2, 3 and 6.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:16
...but there is not much point in explaining exactly how I did that, because this was a pointless exercise: On the S-Type that DSC-module cannot be opened and I cannot access the PCB. Thus, I put it straight back in. I think what I saw on the net regarding that PCB must have been on the XJ8...
...but there is not much point in explaining exactly how I did that, because this was a pointless exercise: On the S-Type that DSC-module cannot be opened and I cannot access the PCB. Thus, I put it straight back in. I think what I saw on the net regarding that PCB must have been on the XJ8...
0 2022/11/05 04:36:48
ANNOYINGLY the ABS & Cruise faults were still there. In my extensive research on the net I saw that it is possible that the PCB of the ABS/DSC-module (the elk-test-module ;) ) could have cold welds in need of rewelding. Thus, I actually managed the near impossible to remove the black-box DSC-module from the "octopus", without actually removing any brake-lines...
ANNOYINGLY the ABS & Cruise faults were still there. In my extensive research on the net I saw that it is possible that the PCB of the ABS/DSC-module (the elk-test-module ;) ) could have cold welds in need of rewelding. Thus, I actually managed the near impossible to remove the black-box DSC-module from the "octopus", without actually removing any brake-lines...
0 2022/11/05 04:36:46
Here I measure 2.5 Mega Ohm on each of the brand new sensors. One old one measured 0.7MOhm and the other one started the measurement at that same level, but quickly went down to zero MOhm. I assume one or the other was broken. Anyway, I had now the new ones.
Here I measure 2.5 Mega Ohm on each of the brand new sensors. One old one measured 0.7MOhm and the other one started the measurement at that same level, but quickly went down to zero MOhm. I assume one or the other was broken. Anyway, I had now the new ones.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:43
And this is that connector. I measured (with ignition on) the full battery voltage between those 2 pins, which tells me that the wiring is OK.
And this is that connector. I measured (with ignition on) the full battery voltage between those 2 pins, which tells me that the wiring is OK.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:41
After that pin has been pushed thru it is extremlu easy to lift the connector off.
After that pin has been pushed thru it is extremlu easy to lift the connector off.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:39
This is being done with a screwdriver.
This is being done with a screwdriver.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:38
Those connectors to the ABS speed sensors on the rear axle are a bit tricky to open. The connecots on the left and right are identical, i.e. on one side, the red "pin" need to be pushed outwards, on the other side inwards.
Those connectors to the ABS speed sensors on the rear axle are a bit tricky to open. The connecots on the left and right are identical, i.e. on one side, the red "pin" need to be pushed outwards, on the other side inwards.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:36
0 2022/11/05 04:34:42
0 2022/11/05 04:34:40
0 2022/11/05 04:34:38
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0 2022/11/05 04:34:34
0 2022/11/05 04:34:32
0 2022/11/05 04:34:29
Everything is extremely tight in that area. Thus, I can't properly see it - that picture is from the internet: What is the function of that pulley in the red circle? What is powered via that pulley?
Everything is extremely tight in that area. Thus, I can't properly see it - that picture is from the internet: What is the function of that pulley in the red circle? What is powered via that pulley?
0 2022/10/27 17:33:59
I replaced the old fog lights with those fance LED fog lights with LED DTRL halo. Their cables end in the opposing connector to the one in the previous picture.
I replaced the old fog lights with those fance LED fog lights with LED DTRL halo. Their cables end in the opposing connector to the one in the previous picture.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:20