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...but I created myself another problem: This is why I wrote before: Do not turn the upper part of the switch, after opening the 6 clips: I turned it over and over to clean it, and out came those little metal bars - and withoutn those the switch does not work. I had to figure out of how to remove the 4 switches: From inside of the switch with 2 little screwdrivers pressing those little latches inside, while allowing space on the other side for the switch to fall out...
...but I created myself another problem: This is why I wrote before: Do not turn the upper part of the switch, after opening the 6 clips: I turned it over and over to clean it, and out came those little metal bars - and withoutn those the switch does not work. I had to figure out of how to remove the 4 switches: From inside of the switch with 2 little screwdrivers pressing those little latches inside, while allowing space on the other side for the switch to fall out...
0 2022/10/20 04:43:31
and to the other hole (on the other side of the PCB here, where I had less space, but I had to do it here, as the contact on the other side had totally corroded away. Normally I would have solved the problem now...
and to the other hole (on the other side of the PCB here, where I had less space, but I had to do it here, as the contact on the other side had totally corroded away. Normally I would have solved the problem now...
0 2022/10/20 04:43:30
This is again the same picture as the one before last (180 degree rotated), and here I already positioned those 2 little strands of wire with a pair of tweezers and soldered it to the upper hole on this side...
This is again the same picture as the one before last (180 degree rotated), and here I already positioned those 2 little strands of wire with a pair of tweezers and soldered it to the upper hole on this side...
0 2022/10/20 04:43:28
Here you see that same hole from the other side: Third hole from the top in the centre of the picture. There should be a contact from this to that little hole just above. But it is not and this is why the motor turns into the same direction, regardless if you pull the switch up or push it down. If I had a circuit diagram I could tell you "how comes", but that way I can tell you only "because!"
Here you see that same hole from the other side: Third hole from the top in the centre of the picture. There should be a contact from this to that little hole just above. But it is not and this is why the motor turns into the same direction, regardless if you pull the switch up or push it down. If I had a circuit diagram I could tell you "how comes", but that way I can tell you only "because!"
0 2022/10/20 04:43:26
I cleaned off the blue residue and confirmed that this corrosive destruction destroy a little bit of "thru-hole" contact. What you see here is a double sided PCB. It allows for complex designs in a small space. All those little holes are contacts thru to the other side. And that contact "southeast" of the "I" in "IC2" has disappeared. No more contact. I confirm this with a multimeter.
I cleaned off the blue residue and confirmed that this corrosive destruction destroy a little bit of "thru-hole" contact. What you see here is a double sided PCB. It allows for complex designs in a small space. All those little holes are contacts thru to the other side. And that contact "southeast" of the "I" in "IC2" has disappeared. No more contact. I confirm this with a multimeter.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:24
So as you may already have seen on the previous picture: The blue stuff is the result of some kind of destructive corrosion. Most likely not humidity-corrosion, but I do not want to speculate any further. This corrosion on the PCB is right next to the contacts of the driver's window contacts. Thus, I was now 98% sure, that this is the reason for my problem.
So as you may already have seen on the previous picture: The blue stuff is the result of some kind of destructive corrosion. Most likely not humidity-corrosion, but I do not want to speculate any further. This corrosion on the PCB is right next to the contacts of the driver's window contacts. Thus, I was now 98% sure, that this is the reason for my problem.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:22
SO got the master power window switch out of the door trim, opened those 6 clips and took the switch apart, which was now suspect No. 1 for the malfunction. Note: Best be very careful with the upper part of that switch unit: Do not turn it upside down after opening those 6 clips! I will show you the issue, you create, if you do that further below.
SO got the master power window switch out of the door trim, opened those 6 clips and took the switch apart, which was now suspect No. 1 for the malfunction. Note: Best be very careful with the upper part of that switch unit: Do not turn it upside down after opening those 6 clips! I will show you the issue, you create, if you do that further below.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:20
So I had to remove the regulator AGAIN from the door and then I realized that I did not notice a little detail before, when I dested the motor on its own: Yes, it turns for UP and DOWN, but each time in the UP direction! / Above: This is how to remove the switch from the trim: three torx T10 screws! I could not find a hint anywhere of how to do it, and in the end I removed in desperation those screws, expecting to remove the back of the switch, while the switch still sits in there...
So I had to remove the regulator AGAIN from the door and then I realized that I did not notice a little detail before, when I dested the motor on its own: Yes, it turns for UP and DOWN, but each time in the UP direction! / Above: This is how to remove the switch from the trim: three torx T10 screws! I could not find a hint anywhere of how to do it, and in the end I removed in desperation those screws, expecting to remove the back of the switch, while the switch still sits in there...
0 2022/10/20 04:43:18
Also: I tried already, and moving the window up worked great. I was very disappointed when I realized, that I had the same problem as before: The window does not come down anymore. / Above picture: This is how to get that stator past the brushes without having to remove the PCB unit: Briefly unhinge the springs behind the brushes, but put it back on before final reassembly.
Also: I tried already, and moving the window up worked great. I was very disappointed when I realized, that I had the same problem as before: The window does not come down anymore. / Above picture: This is how to get that stator past the brushes without having to remove the PCB unit: Briefly unhinge the springs behind the brushes, but put it back on before final reassembly.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:16
...window-latches towards the top position by hand: This will automatically pull in the motor spindle! And then put everything back into the door. So I assembled everything again and put the window back in (while the regulator was close to top position, which was possible but made things very difficult, as it is a lot easier with the regulator half way down). Again: Think a few steps ahead not to damage the glass. SO I thought the regulator must have been stuck somehow and I fixed it.
...window-latches towards the top position by hand: This will automatically pull in the motor spindle! And then put everything back into the door. So I assembled everything again and put the window back in (while the regulator was close to top position, which was possible but made things very difficult, as it is a lot easier with the regulator half way down). Again: Think a few steps ahead not to damage the glass. SO I thought the regulator must have been stuck somehow and I fixed it.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:13
Now putting the motor (with its spindle) back into the regulator is a bit tricky, coz as it is pushing it past the white plastic sprocket inside the area I just greased would not be possible. The trick is: Start with those latches, which will hold the window, somewhere below the top position and after carefully feeding the rotor past the brushes, push a motor and spindle carefully back. But for the last bit (as in picture above), where you cannot push the motor further, push instead those...
Now putting the motor (with its spindle) back into the regulator is a bit tricky, coz as it is pushing it past the white plastic sprocket inside the area I just greased would not be possible. The trick is: Start with those latches, which will hold the window, somewhere below the top position and after carefully feeding the rotor past the brushes, push a motor and spindle carefully back. But for the last bit (as in picture above), where you cannot push the motor further, push instead those...
0 2022/10/20 04:43:11
I figured a bit of bearing grease cannot harm. Putting the grease into a massive syringe is my idea. This is very helpful.
I figured a bit of bearing grease cannot harm. Putting the grease into a massive syringe is my idea. This is very helpful.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:10
So I assembled those parts above again and holding them together I connected them to the connector on the car and tried the window UP and DOWN button (with ign. on). The motor moved each time.
So I assembled those parts above again and holding them together I connected them to the connector on the car and tried the window UP and DOWN button (with ign. on). The motor moved each time.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:08
Note those brushes (inside the circle on the lower part). Be very careful not to damage them. There are various way to assemble this again, but assembly is done the slow way, making sure you move the brushes temporarily back when pushing the rotor thru.
Note those brushes (inside the circle on the lower part). Be very careful not to damage them. There are various way to assemble this again, but assembly is done the slow way, making sure you move the brushes temporarily back when pushing the rotor thru.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:06
Since I initially figured that the mechanism of the regulator is stuck somehow (and I could not see any defect parts on the regulator), I went on to remove the motor, and to remove the rotor from the stator. With the motor removed I could move the regulator down and up by hand, i.e. that was all OK.
Since I initially figured that the mechanism of the regulator is stuck somehow (and I could not see any defect parts on the regulator), I went on to remove the motor, and to remove the rotor from the stator. With the motor removed I could move the regulator down and up by hand, i.e. that was all OK.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:04
There it is. I should also mention that I initially thought I would have a problem in my attempt pulling the window glass out, since it needs to be pulled out by pulling it UP and OUT (and be very careful with the glass), But luckily, removing those 5 x T27 screws lowered the window JUST enough to get it out (after loosening those 2 hex-screws going thru the two silver parts on the left in the picture above.
There it is. I should also mention that I initially thought I would have a problem in my attempt pulling the window glass out, since it needs to be pulled out by pulling it UP and OUT (and be very careful with the glass), But luckily, removing those 5 x T27 screws lowered the window JUST enough to get it out (after loosening those 2 hex-screws going thru the two silver parts on the left in the picture above.
0 2022/10/20 04:43:01
After that you can "fold the regulator together" inside of the door and pull it out.
After that you can "fold the regulator together" inside of the door and pull it out.
0 2022/10/20 04:42:59
...damage, use a heat-gun. Shown here is the connector to the regulator. To remove the connector from the regulator you need to press that point, which I indicate here with the blue tool. Note that that point will be on the far side from you, i.e. pointing to the outside of the car, i.e. this is a fully blind "operation". So: Push and pull.
...damage, use a heat-gun. Shown here is the connector to the regulator. To remove the connector from the regulator you need to press that point, which I indicate here with the blue tool. Note that that point will be on the far side from you, i.e. pointing to the outside of the car, i.e. this is a fully blind "operation". So: Push and pull.
0 2022/10/20 04:42:57
This is actually a picture from when I fixed everything already, but I show it here already to point out that that little white clip in the centre need to be pushed to dislodge. And those 5 torx T27 screws need to be removed to remove the pwr window regulator. And to remove the inner black insulation with minimal
This is actually a picture from when I fixed everything already, but I show it here already to point out that that little white clip in the centre need to be pushed to dislodge. And those 5 torx T27 screws need to be removed to remove the pwr window regulator. And to remove the inner black insulation with minimal
0 2022/10/20 04:42:54
The coins are just there as size-reference: Those 2 little 7mm long strands (in the middle), which I cut off a thin 7-strand cable, were all I needed to fix the stuck window...
The coins are just there as size-reference: Those 2 little 7mm long strands (in the middle), which I cut off a thin 7-strand cable, were all I needed to fix the stuck window...
0 2022/10/20 04:42:50
A bity hard to see - it would be clearly visible when fitted to the car: This is my final touch to those headlights: Chrome surrounds. I just love then - for front light, rear lights and side-indicator.
A bity hard to see - it would be clearly visible when fitted to the car: This is my final touch to those headlights: Chrome surrounds. I just love then - for front light, rear lights and side-indicator.
0 2022/10/10 05:39:41
Here are those rubber surround fitted now. It would be rreally bad, if you would forget them and fit them and fit the bumper and THEN notice that you forgot them...
Here are those rubber surround fitted now. It would be rreally bad, if you would forget them and fit them and fit the bumper and THEN notice that you forgot them...
0 2022/10/10 05:39:37
Here we go. But don't screw the headlamps back onto the car just yet - because in the picture above the rubber-surrounds have not been fitted back on again.
Here we go. But don't screw the headlamps back onto the car just yet - because in the picture above the rubber-surrounds have not been fitted back on again.
0 2022/10/10 05:39:34
And after also pulling the soft rubber thru that opening again, then you can finally attach the reflector back to the housing, and than heat it it up as before, to melt that black glue again to be able to attach the front clear lenses again in a water-tight way (cause that is the idea of that black glue).
And after also pulling the soft rubber thru that opening again, then you can finally attach the reflector back to the housing, and than heat it it up as before, to melt that black glue again to be able to attach the front clear lenses again in a water-tight way (cause that is the idea of that black glue).
0 2022/10/10 05:39:31
Now, before fixating the reflector in its final position in that housing, put the motor for the headlamp leveling back in place: Slide the reflectors just that little bit to the side so that you can slide that white ball into the new black "guiderail", before mounding the motor.
Now, before fixating the reflector in its final position in that housing, put the motor for the headlamp leveling back in place: Slide the reflectors just that little bit to the side so that you can slide that white ball into the new black "guiderail", before mounding the motor.
0 2022/10/10 05:39:28
This is how it looks with all the new black parts from the kit in place.
This is how it looks with all the new black parts from the kit in place.
0 2022/10/10 05:39:25
To insert the new black part here I needed the extra force provided by a pair of pliers.
To insert the new black part here I needed the extra force provided by a pair of pliers.
0 2022/10/10 05:39:23
0 2022/10/10 05:39:21
Those parts, which were broken, however, were that brittle that it was very easy to remove the sad remainders of them. Now, if some parts were that brittle after 18 years, and the other white parts where still OK, it clearly shows that Jaguar did something horribly wrong there...
Those parts, which were broken, however, were that brittle that it was very easy to remove the sad remainders of them. Now, if some parts were that brittle after 18 years, and the other white parts where still OK, it clearly shows that Jaguar did something horribly wrong there...
0 2022/10/10 05:39:19
Sad picture of broken plastic parts. Unpack the repair kit with the parts you need. I found it on ebay under "Jaguar S-Type headlight adjuster 1999-2007". It contains 10 little parts. Most of those parts will be broken on your headlight. However, I did not use those 4 "sprockets: in the kit, as my old ones were not broken and I could not see how to replace them anyway. But those other 6 parts where utterly broken on my headlight, while other white plastic parts were perfectly OK.
Sad picture of broken plastic parts. Unpack the repair kit with the parts you need. I found it on ebay under "Jaguar S-Type headlight adjuster 1999-2007". It contains 10 little parts. Most of those parts will be broken on your headlight. However, I did not use those 4 "sprockets: in the kit, as my old ones were not broken and I could not see how to replace them anyway. But those other 6 parts where utterly broken on my headlight, while other white plastic parts were perfectly OK.
0 2022/10/10 05:39:17
Gently push the soft rubber thru the opening.
Gently push the soft rubber thru the opening.
0 2022/10/10 05:39:04
With the clear plastic removed you now need to remove the reflector. Avoid touching the reflector - especially protect it from grease. Here you also see that there was really nothing left of those parts, which were supposed to fixate the reflector. Note the white parts on the grass.
With the clear plastic removed you now need to remove the reflector. Avoid touching the reflector - especially protect it from grease. Here you also see that there was really nothing left of those parts, which were supposed to fixate the reflector. Note the white parts on the grass.
0 2022/10/10 05:38:54
It looks scary, but this is the way to do it: Best choose a warm day. After removing the black rubber from around the head lamps, carefully go around the circumfence of the headlightsand warm it up with a heat gun to soften the kind of black rubber-glue, which holds the head light together, Simulaneously you obviously have to open those clips, while prying open the housing with one of those cunning tools normally used to remove the inner trim from the doors of a Jag (see blue tool).
It looks scary, but this is the way to do it: Best choose a warm day. After removing the black rubber from around the head lamps, carefully go around the circumfence of the headlightsand warm it up with a heat gun to soften the kind of black rubber-glue, which holds the head light together, Simulaneously you obviously have to open those clips, while prying open the housing with one of those cunning tools normally used to remove the inner trim from the doors of a Jag (see blue tool).
0 2022/10/10 05:38:51
Here you see at the bottom some of the "pulverised plastic", which once held the reflector in place. Without them, you cannot adjust your headlamps any more and you have no control of where your light shines to. This should be a clear fail at the rego-check / MOT.
Here you see at the bottom some of the "pulverised plastic", which once held the reflector in place. Without them, you cannot adjust your headlamps any more and you have no control of where your light shines to. This should be a clear fail at the rego-check / MOT.
0 2022/10/10 05:38:47
This is the headlamp leveling motor... adjusting nothing, as everything is broken away.
This is the headlamp leveling motor... adjusting nothing, as everything is broken away.
0 2022/10/10 05:38:43
Here you see that the lenses are pretty clear again (after applying the lens sealing wipe. And here you also already see in the bottom right corner one of the 3 adjustments to end nowhere, as all the plastic-parts have basically pulverised over time. There are 2 adjustment screws and one adjustment motor (leveling) in the middle.
Here you see that the lenses are pretty clear again (after applying the lens sealing wipe. And here you also already see in the bottom right corner one of the 3 adjustments to end nowhere, as all the plastic-parts have basically pulverised over time. There are 2 adjustment screws and one adjustment motor (leveling) in the middle.
0 2022/10/10 05:38:41
The S-Type came with a very obvious fault: Dull plastic headlights, but I already knew how to fix that: "Turtle Wax - Headlight lens restorer". It's not cheap, but it does wonders, if used correctly. My headlights were actually that far gone that I had to start with wet sandpaper, which was more corse than the sanding pads provided: I started with 2000 grid wet paper & then worked my way thru provided pads. To apply the lens clarifying compound I used a drill with a rotation cloth - carefully!!!
The S-Type came with a very obvious fault: Dull plastic headlights, but I already knew how to fix that: "Turtle Wax - Headlight lens restorer". It's not cheap, but it does wonders, if used correctly. My headlights were actually that far gone that I had to start with wet sandpaper, which was more corse than the sanding pads provided: I started with 2000 grid wet paper & then worked my way thru provided pads. To apply the lens clarifying compound I used a drill with a rotation cloth - carefully!!!
0 2022/10/10 05:38:39
I bought this 2004 S-Type 4 month ago - it looked great... - but the deeper I dug... After basically working on it for 4 month full time, I have pretty much fixed it now and restored it back to "new condition"
I bought this 2004 S-Type 4 month ago - it looked great... - but the deeper I dug... After basically working on it for 4 month full time, I have pretty much fixed it now and restored it back to "new condition"
0 2022/10/10 05:38:36
And after very laboriously putting that inaccessible bold of the lower part back in again and all the other part, it looked a whole lot better...
And after very laboriously putting that inaccessible bold of the lower part back in again and all the other part, it looked a whole lot better...
0 2022/10/04 05:09:22
Looks much better than before: Cleaned with rotary wire brushed on drill, and then spray-pained with clear-coat.
Looks much better than before: Cleaned with rotary wire brushed on drill, and then spray-pained with clear-coat.
0 2022/10/04 05:09:19