S Type R Rear Brake Job: Help Please!
#1
S Type R Rear Brake Job: Help Please!
Hey Guys, Im getting ready to do a rear brake job on my S Type R. brakingperformance.com has the stuff at a super great price at what seems to be factory spec. From lots of other threads Ive seen several people recommend them here so Im giving them a shot. Im just going to go with their semi-metallic pads and plain rotors. This is for 2 main reasons, they need to match the look of the fronts, and because the car is for sale. I plan to order the parts this week and do it next weekend sometime probably.
My questions are: What parts and tools do I need to do the job besides the actual rotors n pads? Ive done brake jobs before but its been a while and I havent done one on this car.
Where are the Jack Points on it?
Summerized step by step approach to it?
Please try not to laugh too much, im a pretty smart guy jsut not overly mechaincally inclined
Thanks as always! -Erik
My questions are: What parts and tools do I need to do the job besides the actual rotors n pads? Ive done brake jobs before but its been a while and I havent done one on this car.
Where are the Jack Points on it?
Summerized step by step approach to it?
Please try not to laugh too much, im a pretty smart guy jsut not overly mechaincally inclined
Thanks as always! -Erik
#2
You will need a Brake Piston Compression Tool!
(If you don't have, Autozone or PepBoys can rent you a set for a small deposit & fee)
The piston gets turned to the right to compress. However, be certain NOT to compress the piston TOO FAR into its cylinder as you might blow the seal!!!
You MUST hold the Park Brake Switch DOWN (in its release position) as you turn the key to the OFF position else the Park Brake will Automatically engage & you'll NEVER get the pad bracket to swing off the rotor.
Jack points; you'll find them when you're down there. YOU MUST CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS & USE JACK STANDS! When working in the floor I ALWAYS use a 3-TON SET!!! SAFETY 1st..........
(If you don't have, Autozone or PepBoys can rent you a set for a small deposit & fee)
The piston gets turned to the right to compress. However, be certain NOT to compress the piston TOO FAR into its cylinder as you might blow the seal!!!
You MUST hold the Park Brake Switch DOWN (in its release position) as you turn the key to the OFF position else the Park Brake will Automatically engage & you'll NEVER get the pad bracket to swing off the rotor.
Jack points; you'll find them when you're down there. YOU MUST CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS & USE JACK STANDS! When working in the floor I ALWAYS use a 3-TON SET!!! SAFETY 1st..........
#3
Ummmm, a few good pointers their.
With the park brake hold the brake switch down then switch off AND remove the key. This will stop the brake coming on.
Presume you have the Brembos so it really is a nice straight forward job. With reagrds to a compression tool, don't waist your money you do not need one. the 4 pistons in each caliper push back very easily by hand (just make sure that when you push one the others do not move out!!) if they are stiff then you have problems!!! When i done mine the pins needed a fair amount of persuasion to come out courtesy of a punch and hammer (two pins for the main caliper and two for the park brake caliper. Also the park brake caliper is would CLOCKWISE in and i just used some needle nose pliers which worked absolutely fine.
As said don't forget to chock the wheels and always use axle stands (unless you can bench 2.5 tons!!!)
Damien.
With the park brake hold the brake switch down then switch off AND remove the key. This will stop the brake coming on.
Presume you have the Brembos so it really is a nice straight forward job. With reagrds to a compression tool, don't waist your money you do not need one. the 4 pistons in each caliper push back very easily by hand (just make sure that when you push one the others do not move out!!) if they are stiff then you have problems!!! When i done mine the pins needed a fair amount of persuasion to come out courtesy of a punch and hammer (two pins for the main caliper and two for the park brake caliper. Also the park brake caliper is would CLOCKWISE in and i just used some needle nose pliers which worked absolutely fine.
As said don't forget to chock the wheels and always use axle stands (unless you can bench 2.5 tons!!!)
Damien.
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#7
Re: Park Brake Check (Simple)
Remember this IS NOT AN ABSOLUTE VERIFICATION of the condition of the Park Brake Shoes but an easy way to test them is as follows:
1) Car parked on LEVEL GROUND (Also best to have assistant to help stop car just in case)
2) Key On Engine Off
3) Park Brake Engaged
4) Shifter Placed in Neutral
5) Try to roll the car in both directions. If you can't then they're probably okay unless you park on steep inclines.
As you plan to sell the vehicle you are OBLIGATED for safety reasons to inform the buyer that the EMERGENCY BRAKES NEED to be checked if not replaced. Just as you inform them of the recent brake service you HAVE performed. Considering the possibility of their steep hill parking!!
1) Car parked on LEVEL GROUND (Also best to have assistant to help stop car just in case)
2) Key On Engine Off
3) Park Brake Engaged
4) Shifter Placed in Neutral
5) Try to roll the car in both directions. If you can't then they're probably okay unless you park on steep inclines.
As you plan to sell the vehicle you are OBLIGATED for safety reasons to inform the buyer that the EMERGENCY BRAKES NEED to be checked if not replaced. Just as you inform them of the recent brake service you HAVE performed. Considering the possibility of their steep hill parking!!
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#8
Great tips about shutting down the Park Brake to allow for rear pad replacement, and also about testing how well the Park Brake is doing its job. Thanks to all that have contributed in this thread - it will help any S-Type rear brake job go a lot smoother and faster. I made some quick notes and filed them away in my S-Type maintenance folder for when it's time for me to replace the rear pads on our 2005 S-Type....
Last edited by Jon89; 04-28-2009 at 11:30 AM.
#9
TBJCC: thanks for being so concerned, as it was at the dealer just last week getting serviced and how I learned about my rear brakes im sure my tech checked them (a fellow styper owner) but i did your test just to be safe and my car didnt budge at all
Thanks to everyone else too, how does $190 including shipping for both rear rotors n pads sound?
Thanks to everyone else too, how does $190 including shipping for both rear rotors n pads sound?
#10
Update: I got them ordered last Friday and they were shipped the same day, I should have them by Thursday according to my UPS tracking number. Hopefully, Ill have time to get to them this weekend. I plan to take pictures as well at least of the product when I get it if not the installation process for others
#11
Great tips about shutting down the Park Brake to allow for rear pad replacement, and also about testing how well the Park Brake is doing its job. Thanks to all that have contributed in this thread - it will help any S-Type rear brake job go a lot smoother and faster. I made some quick notes and filed them away in my S-Type maintenance folder for when it's time for me to replace the rear pads on our 2005 S-Type....
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What is being asked here is it a mechanical parking brake VS. electronic parking brake.
My 01 3.0 stype had a mechanical brake that when released allowed me to remove the caliper and pads.
My 06 STR has an electronic parking brake that must be held down when shut off to stop the brake from engaging.
So we must determine which year of car we are talking about when doing rear brakes.
My 01 3.0 stype had a mechanical brake that when released allowed me to remove the caliper and pads.
My 06 STR has an electronic parking brake that must be held down when shut off to stop the brake from engaging.
So we must determine which year of car we are talking about when doing rear brakes.
#15
What is being asked here is it a mechanical parking brake VS. electronic parking brake.
My 01 3.0 stype had a mechanical brake that when released allowed me to remove the caliper and pads.
My 06 STR has an electronic parking brake that must be held down when shut off to stop the brake from engaging.
So we must determine which year of car we are talking about when doing rear brakes.
My 01 3.0 stype had a mechanical brake that when released allowed me to remove the caliper and pads.
My 06 STR has an electronic parking brake that must be held down when shut off to stop the brake from engaging.
So we must determine which year of car we are talking about when doing rear brakes.
#16
More info on Rear Brembo STR replacement
Thanx for all the posted helpful tips. Here's is what I just found changing them. I replaced my front rotors and pads. I have a 2005 STR with Brembo calipers. Front's are easy. The hard part is breaking loose the bolts, etc. Arkobono pads are great so far, no noise no dust.
Now this weekend I palnned my rear. My car has 45k, the rear discs looked bad and machined with scratches. I knew my pads were low. The rear Brembo are almost exact for replacement as the front, but smaller pads. The issue is that I assumed my parking/emergancy brakes were fine so after I changed the rotor I put the parking brake caliper but on. Mistake. CHECK YOUR PARKING BRAKES. The dealer didn't say a thing while in for a oil change and warranty work. They were GONE! I've added pictures. I lost a new rotor because of them. So now, today, I picked up the parking brembo pads from the dealer for $121 ouch!
Now that caliper is not the same, the tips here were VERY helpful! The tip about spinning the pistin to the right and being able to use needle nose pliers to turn it really helped. I now have new discs and brakes all around for 1/4 the dealer cost!
Now this weekend I palnned my rear. My car has 45k, the rear discs looked bad and machined with scratches. I knew my pads were low. The rear Brembo are almost exact for replacement as the front, but smaller pads. The issue is that I assumed my parking/emergancy brakes were fine so after I changed the rotor I put the parking brake caliper but on. Mistake. CHECK YOUR PARKING BRAKES. The dealer didn't say a thing while in for a oil change and warranty work. They were GONE! I've added pictures. I lost a new rotor because of them. So now, today, I picked up the parking brembo pads from the dealer for $121 ouch!
Now that caliper is not the same, the tips here were VERY helpful! The tip about spinning the pistin to the right and being able to use needle nose pliers to turn it really helped. I now have new discs and brakes all around for 1/4 the dealer cost!
Last edited by chrislynn5; 10-26-2010 at 08:10 PM.
#17
#18
Thanks for the tip about NAPA having the E pads.
Part #?
Bob S.
#19
The STR rear parking brake pads are hard to find anywhere but the dealer. I did find them for about $80 on Rock Auto.
I release the parking brake differently. I just shut the car off in gear. This makes sure the parking brake is not partially applied. The electronic parking brake can be applied while the car is moving BUT Jaguar was smart and it only partially applies with one pull. Multiple pulls on the switch will apply the parking brakes more and more.
I have always been able to get the calibration back and shut off the error light by just applying the parking brake multiple times. It seems to find a comfortable spot with use.
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I release the parking brake differently. I just shut the car off in gear. This makes sure the parking brake is not partially applied. The electronic parking brake can be applied while the car is moving BUT Jaguar was smart and it only partially applies with one pull. Multiple pulls on the switch will apply the parking brakes more and more.
I have always been able to get the calibration back and shut off the error light by just applying the parking brake multiple times. It seems to find a comfortable spot with use.
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