So I just had my 1969 e type running but not running correctly. It was drivable but at a 2.5k idle. So before I continued on with setting the timing and tuning the carbs I replaced and gapped spark plugs, replaced spark plug wires, dizzy cap and points inside the dizzy also a new condenser and brand new coil. Now since replacing everything I can not get the darn thing to start! I have the Hanes repair manual and although the ipb for the dizzy internals is terrible I am pretty sure I put everything in correctly. Please where do I start? Any very common mistakes when rebuilding these? I also put a screw driver in the lead coming off the coil and there is no spark. Maybe a better repair/troubleshoot reference than the Hanes manual? Any input very much appreciated and thank you in advance.

 

start by checking power to the coil, then google checking older distributors and you will get a whack of info. Same thing happened to me this spring and it ended up being a bad lead at the ignition switch. It will get figured out without a lot of grief.


Alfred

 

So I didn't know there is a protective film on the points so I cleaned them and it is trying to start but just backfires. Any ideas guys?

 

This may be a dumb comment but remember on the E type #1 cylinder is closest to the firewall which is kinda backwards compared to other British cars. Check the plug wires.


If it's trying to start and backfiring the timing could be way out. Set #1 cylinder on the compression stroke and check the static timing.

 

Hello Ol Blue,
What you're describing is consistent with poor ignition timing. If the points you replaced were badly eroded, or the gap was profoundly incorrect, the ignition timing could be altered sufficiently to make the engine difficult to start when replacing the points. Ensure that you have the correct points gap now that the new set of points installed. As you were going to the trouble of replacing the points, I would have replaced the points system with an "In Distributor" electronic ignition system. It is visually undetectable, and you can say good-by to having to set points ever again. In fact, even though you have the new points installed, you should consider replacing them with the electronic system, as they are not all that expensive. There are quite a few manufacturers of this type of device, Pertronix is one that springs to mind.

I would suggest completing a Static Ignition Timing (ignition timing with the engine stopped) before you try anything else. You should find information in you Workshop Manual as to the angle to set for Static Ignition Timing. Once you have done this, the engine should start and the Dynamic Timing checked with a Strobe Timing Light.

This is quite a basic mistake, but ensure that you have all the plug leads connected in the correct firing order. I work a lot on V12 engines, and its not all that hard to connect a couple of leads up wrong with the V12 configuration. On the 6 cylinder engines, number 1 cylinder is closest to the firewall.

Sorry andypreston for the reiteration of what you said, I was still typing when you made your Post.


Regards,

Brent

 

Thanks guys will keep in mind. I did set the wires up correctly with cylinder 1 being closest to the firewall. Actually it was kind of a no brainier because the wires were pre-cut to length. With my distributer as far as the gap goes I think I am confused. It seems no matter how I adjust the base plate via the adjustment screw the point always go back to touching so how do I proper set the gap. The Hanes manual is very vague.

 

Ignitor

Is this what you are referring to?

 

Hello Ol Blue,
Yes, that's the Pertronix's device.
You will note that there is a 6 lobe cam on the centre shaft of the distributor that facilitates the opening and closing of the points in sequence with the plug leads. The point's gap has to be set with the cam follower of the points device sitting on the high point of the cam lobe. To achieve this, the engine is turned over by hand via the front crank shaft pulley, or with the car in high gear and pushing the car; I prefer to rotate the engine with the crank shaft pulley.

With the In Distributor, Electronic Ignition System (irrespective of brand), the signal is derived from a Hall Effect Sensor. Accordingly, the gap between the magnets (6 magnets (for a 6 cylinder engine), located equidistant around a ring that is secured to the distributor centre shaft), and the pickup sensor is unimportant so long as the sensor is not touching the ring. Correspondingly, there is no requirement to use a feeler gauge to set any gaps.

Regards,

Brent