Hello to everyone.

Perhaps i should confess immediately that i do not own an E type, and that my usual haunt is the XK8 forums.

I have come to this forum to ask about the best way/s to restore aluminium parts, on the basis that owners of older (and more expensive) classic cars will have considerably more experience and knowledge of restoration techniques, than owners of more recent cars.

I hope you are able to forgive my intrusion.

Despite my chariot being of year 2000 origin, many of the engine parts are looking decidly tired, and will not come up with light polish due to oxidisation and pitting.

So to get to the point, i wondered if perhaps anyone could advise on effective ways of restoring these parts to look in as-new condition.

I have done some searching with regards to sand blasting services and tools, but from my understanding, most sand blasting machines for the home hobbyist run on air, and require a seperate compressor of at least 3HP to run.
If my info is correct, i gather that the maximum power of compressor that can be run from a normal mains socket in the UK, is also around 3HP.

I would prefer an electric polishing tool (if not too expensive) as long as it was capable of producing satisfactory results, (which would save me having to buy and run a compressor, i don't have a garage) or perhaps, the use of a professional service, subject to cost.

To give an idea of the condition of items i am trying to restore, i have included some pictures below.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

On my E-Type the only polished aluminium was the cam covers and the SU's but it may be different now.

Thought you might get better information from the motorcycle fraternity as they are fanatical about polished aluminium.

Try this link for a start:

How to polish aluminum for motorcycles to chrome like finish

It covers basic principles and materials.

Graham

 

You took the words out of my mouth Graham, motorcycle sources are the way to go.
Actually polishing those parts is going to be a long and tedious process, there are many nooks and crannies, maybe just defurring and cleaning would be better.
Bead blasting is also a possibility or blasting with some exotic material like walnut shells, that was a guess by the way, again the motorcycle guys are the experts.

 

Seems like they don't want to talk to me here

You had an E type GGG?

Which one?

My favourite was the 5.3 V12 2+2.

I had some success using fine grade sandpaper and T-cut aluminium polish (similar to solvol autosol), but as you say Norri, the throttle body i'm trying to clean has many nooks and crannies.

So i've ordered an aluminium polishing kit (in the piccie below) with some wire brush attachments that can be used with a normal electric drill.

If it gives satisfactory results i'll post before's and after's in the XK8 forum, for anyone else that may be thinking of freshening up parts that they are about to remove.

Thank you chaps, for not leaving me all alone here

 

I use Aluma prep which is a aluminum cleaner and protectant. I clean nasty suspension pieces to like new condition without changing the look or texture of a new part. PPG and other companies make products to clean and protect aluminum, Google is your friend

 

Hi Brutal,
i Googled Aluma prep, and found that it's main ingredient is phosphoric acid, which is an ingredient that seems to be common for most of the heavy duty aluminium cleaners.

I couldn't find anywhere in the UK to buy it, but have ordered a dilutable heavy duty aluminium cleaner off EBay which may be similar.

A spray on cleaner that can be worked in with a nylon brush and washed off, should help clean up the top of the block, because it was a bit of a mess in there once the intake manifold was off. Hopefully the stuff i've ordered will clean it well enough.
For the removable parts like the throttle body, i'll see how far the wire brushes and some polish get me.

I've put some piccies in so you can see what the block was like, and a couple to show the improvement made with some degreaser and soapy water. But the sides of the heads still look pretty grotty, so i'm hoping the spray on stuff will sort that out.

The block looks like it has a different finish to the heads, though i thought they were both alloy.

I'll probably have to settle for just having them look "clean", as opposed to "as new".

 

A 1968 4.2 Coupe for just over a year. Had to go in favour of a Series I XJ6 when we needed the extra seats and then I got involved with an Aston Martin DB5 for thirty years so never got back to E-Types.

It seems all aluminium cleaners are Phosphorc Acid based although some of the more astringent ones beef this up with Nitric Acid. That's a mighty potent cocktail. Visions of your TB disappearing down the plughole!

Good luck.

Graham

 

Anyone tried Coke? The liquid fizzy kind.

 

You've owned some great cars GGG, and you must have liked the DB5 a hell of a lot to keep it 30 years.

By contrast i've owned mainly mediocre Fords most of my life, and the only thing that got me vaguely interested in mechanics ( by necessity, because it was so unreliable) was the MK3 Cosworth Granada i owned until a few years ago.
I spent thousands on that thing, having it gas flowed, high lift cams, powder coated etc, and thousands more just trying to keep it out of the breakers yard, cos it was falling apart faster than i could fix it.
It also had a tendency to break gearboxes, and had 3 reconditioned gearboxes in 5 years.
I only bought it because of the sound it made, and because it went like a scalded cat. I wish i could get the Jag to sound like it. Even with the sports back boxes it's no match for the Cosworth on sound (and i don't mean decibels). That's a shame.

They do say that nothing sounds like a Cosworth, although Aston Martin have put some work in to the way their newer DB's sound, which is all good.
Anyway i'm digressing.

The phosphoric acid is just for the block and heads, and will be diluted before use and thoroughly washed off afterwards. I don't want to melt my throttle body just yet.

Norri if Coke has the same effect on my block as it apparently has on kids teeth, it should be a perfect dissolvent.
I'd have to make sure it was thoroughly washed off too, or i'll be surrounded by wasps

 

The "bite" in Coke is phosphoric acid. They just don't say at what concentration.

 

Would i be close in assuming it's the "fizz" in most, if not all, fizzy drinks plums?

Would never have thought of trying to clean my engine with a bottle of "pop" before Norri mentioned it.

 

No the "fizz" is carbon dioxide.

Lots of people have talked about using Coca-Cola to shine up chrome.

The site linked by GGG is really good reading for you project.

 

Yes i've read the link.

Several different methods there, one of which is to use wire brush wheels and finish with polish.

Since i can use the wire brush wheels i've ordered in my electric drill, and the kit includes buffing wheels for polishing, i'll go with that and hope it works.

I don't want to spend weeks sanding my throttle body

 

!!!!!!!

Now I'm not surprised they keep the formula a closely guarded secret.

Graham

 

Phosphoric acid on ferrous metal rust I can understand, (been using it since I was a kid)

Turns rust black BTW.

But, on Aluminium Oxide, Sulphate... Whatever..

We need a better Chemist than me.

 

I'm no McGuyver either (remember the tv show?).

Amazing what you can find out fom an innocent enquiry about cleaning bits of metal and plastic.

 

The balanced equation for the reaction of Phosphoric Acid on Aluminium is:

3Al3 + 6H3PO4 -> 9H2 + 2Al3(PO4)3

(forum doesn't like subscript which makes the formula look a bit weird)

That amount of Hydrogen release makes it a slightly risky process!

Graham

 

I am going to polish my xjs wheels, i will take the tire off, 1. get a wheel called a lap mop its an abrasive wheel, it will remove the coating to bear metal it will remove all marks as well. 2 i will belt file the rim it has one deep mark, 3 i will get a 8 inch dia polishing wheel made from rope material along with grinding compound, this will remove the marks from the lap mop,this will leave the wheel simi bright. 4 I will then use a cotton wheel and finishing compound, this will leave the wheel 100% shiny. 5 Next we need to put the car wheel up on a tool room lathe, rotate the machine at 200 rpm and get some abrasive nylon cloth as the wheel is turning the abrasive cloth will dull the wheel and now you have a satin finish wheel. 6 after all this it will need to be lacquered, out door lacquer that is.