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LR186859 Engine Coolant Outlet Flange $167.31
LR186917 Engine Coolant Outlet Flange $68.26
LR122709 2010-2022 Land Rover - Engine Coolant Outlet Flange $125.99
LR097165 2010-2020 Land-Rover Water Pump Assembly $181.77
LR032135 2010-2020 Land-Rover Thermostat Unit $90.12
Plus going to give the brass fitting and aluminum connectors to/from the water pump a shot
Also have the solid couplers and SC oil coming, will have the shop replace any other hoses/fittings that they deem needing replacement. I know also sometimes the overflow tank has problems but mine seems fine so far and is something I can replace myself at a later date.
One thing to look out for is the gear driven vacuum pump is a known oil leaker. Has a couple of O-rings in it and a simple repair. Have you looked at the front of the engine? It's a fairly common problem. You will be right in the area with the water pump repairs.
Now I know I am repeating myself but do change out the PCV diaphragms especially if you have the SC off. Very simple and cheap to change when the SC is removed.
I use the RKX ones that are supposedly made out of a better compound.
I forgot but what are doing with the Symposer? Leaving it alone?
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One thing to look out for is the gear driven vacuum pump is a known oil leaker. Has a couple of O-rings in it and a simple repair. Have you looked at the front of the engine? It's a fairly common problem. You will be right in the area with the water pump repairs.
Now I know I am repeating myself but do change out the PCV diaphragms especially if you have the SC off. Very simple and cheap to change when the SC is removed.
I use the RKX ones that are supposedly made out of a better compound.
I forgot but what are doing with the Symposer? Leaving it alone?
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Great suggestions thank you - will definitely research those two things. Symposer- not sure what the effect is removing it, I know it pipes sound into the cabin but I don't really have any complaints about sound with this car (my neighbors might...).
BTW I think I am going crazy. No sleight on the aftermarket stuff but I just went ahead and made the decision to go OEM JLR, stock plastic everything (i.e. the rear pipe, thermostat) except for the new JLR aluminum pipes that are on the new LRs that folks have successfully installed.
The mechanic I made an appointment with said he wouldn't install those newer JLR pipes, but would install the aftermarket stuff? Saying I was mixing and matching parts and I didn't do any research and thwy won't fit... uh so anyways I'm having a hard time, I just want someone to update my 2015 R so I can have some peace of mind
Great suggestions thank you - will definitely research those two things. Symposer- not sure what the effect is removing it, I know it pipes sound into the cabin but I don't really have any complaints about sound with this car (my neighbors might...).
BTW I think I am going crazy. No sleight on the aftermarket stuff but I just went ahead and made the decision to go OEM JLR, stock plastic everything (i.e. the rear pipe, thermostat) except for the new JLR aluminum pipes that are on the new LRs that folks have successfully installed.
The mechanic I made an appointment with said he wouldn't install those newer JLR pipes, but would install the aftermarket stuff? Saying I was mixing and matching parts and I didn't do any research and thwy won't fit... uh so anyways I'm having a hard time, I just want someone to update my 2015 R so I can have some peace of mind
2 months ago I had;
JLR aluminum pipes x2
EuroAMP aluminum thermostat
Euro AMP aluminum cross pipe
aftermarket water pump
all installed, zero issues and i drive my car hard.
The Symposer removal is just personal choice and it only effects the sounds inside the car. No effect outside the car. I found it had an odd hooting or booming sound. You can temporarily block it off to test if the effect is big enough for you to worry about.
Since your not DIYing the repairs your at the mercy of what the mechanic will do. There have been some issues with the Al. after market pipes as there are a number of vendors selling them but minor and related to the seals. I did use Jaguar seals on my after market rear water manifold. Just because they looked better to me.
Not sure if it's been mentioned but the first metal replacement part we got was the small water transfer tube running from the back of the water pump to the oil cooler brick. I would add that. I also recently swapped the plastic bleed port screw out to the brass version after a forum member reported he had the factory plastic version blow out twice.
No problem using the newer plastic parts BUT just stay on top of the coolant level and the engine temperature and you will be fine. It's the owners who don't ever check under the hood that get the massive coolant geysers and fried engines after they keep driving to next exit or back home. When the car gets hot turn if off NOW and flat tow it to a shop or back home.
Too many have kept driving until total destruction occurs!
Consider what a number of us have done and that's to use a after market scanner to monitor the real coolant temperature. You can even set alarms to let you know when the engine is over heating.
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Last edited by clubairth1; May 15, 2025 at 08:24 AM.
Do you gave the JLR part number for this please?: "I also recently swapped the plastic bleed port screw out to the brass version after a forum member reported he had the factory plastic version blow out twice."
I'll have to read up on the symposer removal - not sure if I hear any odd sounds but it seems to be a popular thing to do.
I'm a big DIY'er actually, did a bunch of things to my old car myself (FR-S, supercharger, headers, coilovers, etc.) but things are just too busy these days and I unfortunately can't spare the time anymore. I do understand that mechanics need to limit their liability on things, but it just drove me nuts that this guy would install all sorts of aftermarket stuff on these motors no questions asked, but wouldn't install the JLR pipes based on my testimony because they have Land Rover part numbers. Drove me up the wall, apologies for the venting.
I did order the small aluminum pump -> oil cooler tube as well as that other brass inlet elbow for the water pump (although I've heard mixed reviews on those). I'll look up the bleed port screw.
To-date the plastic parts have treated me well - I've had my car for about 3 years and it has always had a bit of a coolant smell and I have to top off the coolant every maybe 4-5k miles. Nothing big, but it's now a 10 year old car and I feel like it's time to refresh everything. I do keep an eye out for signs failure though and know to shut the car off as soon as humanly possible - these cars do not suffer overheating well.
Much appreciate the advice! Devil is in the details here and I don't want to cause myself more problems than I'm fixing
bobjagbob No part number as these are all after market improvements. Take a look around on EBay and other places. The brass plugs are very common and cheap.
Hey thanks for asking as you made me look! I found out that LR does have a factory brass bleed screw! I had never seen this before and I wonder if it's like the front Aluminum cooling pipes that showed up at LR in 2025?
Part number LR031393. I found one for $8 so the price is good too. One last check is the thread size but since it's for the 5.0L it should be fine for Jaguar too. I did see that these bleed screws are common across the JLR product range. I did see this description;
Made to fit almost all 3.0L V6, 5.0 V8, 4.4L V8, 4.2L V8, 3.0 Diesel V6, Ingenium 3.0L I6 and 2.0L I4, and 2.0 Ecoboost 204PT I4 Jaguars and Land Rovers. The plastic or OEM versions often melt, cross thread or crack, causing engines to lose coolant and overheat.
Funny but this part number also brings up a coolant hose?? Both the same number?
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Last edited by clubairth1; May 16, 2025 at 08:08 AM.
bobjagbob No part number as these are all after market improvements. Take a look around on EBay and other places. The brass plugs are very common and cheap.
Hey thanks for asking as you made me look! I found out that LR does have a factory brass bleed screw! I had never seen this before and I wonder if it's like the front Aluminum cooling pipes that showed up at LR in 2025?
Part number LR031393. I found one for $8 so the price is good too. One last check is the thread size but since it's for the 5.0L it should be fine for Jaguar too. I did see that these bleed screws are common across the JLR product range. I did see this description;
Made to fit almost all 3.0L V6, 5.0 V8, 4.4L V8, 4.2L V8, 3.0 Diesel V6, Ingenium 3.0L I6 and 2.0L I4, and 2.0 Ecoboost 204PT I4 Jaguars and Land Rovers. The plastic or OEM versions often melt, cross thread or crack, causing engines to lose coolant and overheat.
Funny but this part number also brings up a coolant hose?? Both the same number?
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I'll share some of our experience/progress. The job isn't completed, since I need some VC related parts. That's called foreshadowing.
-Supercharger was very stuck, so I used an engine hoist to put tension on it while hitting with a dead blow. This broke the seal.
-The supercharger sound insulation underneath collects/holds water and that rusts out the valve cover bolt heads. I removed the insulation.
-The valve cover bolt heads are captured, so unfortunately the VC has to be removed to replace them.
-I have no idea how anyone would ever pull that Y-pipe or snout with the SC still installed on the car.
-The #6 intake valves were extremely dirty, along with visible oil pooling at the back of the SC. Looks like that's where the air pushes the oil vapor. Other cylinders were very marginal compared to #6.
Here are some shots after the walnut blasting. Much better!
@CarlB For those with or considering a methanol-water injection kit, I wonder if the mist just ends up in one spot. Seems like there's no way there can be a uniform distribution of mist for all the valves, even if the injectors are drilled in past the throttle body.
Did you DIY the walnut blasting? Better than a brush and carb cleaner, and "all-organic"
@CarlB For those with or considering a methanol-water injection kit, I wonder if the mist just ends up in one spot. Seems like there's no way there can be a uniform distribution of mist for all the valves, even if the injectors are drilled in past the throttle body.
Did you DIY the walnut blasting? Better than a brush and carb cleaner, and "all-organic"
I think it's partially the speed of the air, since it stalls at the back of the charge cooler. But also the fact that's the rear wall, so fluid is more likely to stick/accumulate onto a surface. So while not perfectly uniform between all cylinders, it is being distributed.
I could have really used this setup when I had my Audi TFSI 2.0 with the carbon deposit issue.
Just #6, since all others were just a tiny amount on the stem. My wife wanted to just let those fly for now. I'm going to see about adding an improved racing catch can.
Just an FYI - I have a 2022 F-Type (3K miles on odo) and a 2021 F Pace SVR (20K on odo) - both have the supercharged V8. The Jaguar dealership quoted me around $2500 to replace the plastic coolant pipes with the aluminum ones on my F-Pace. Seems like big $$ to fix a design flaw. I am wishing JLR would make it a JLR-campaign, but given JLR's current situation in the US with very little product to sell and low sales volumes, I don't expect much support from JLR.
Just an FYI - I have a 2022 F-Type (3K miles on odo) and a 2021 F Pace SVR (20K on odo) - both have the supercharged V8. The Jaguar dealership quoted me around $2500 to replace the plastic coolant pipes with the aluminum ones on my F-Pace. Seems like big $$ to fix a design flaw. I am wishing JLR would make it a JLR-campaign, but given JLR's current situation in the US with very little product to sell and low sales volumes, I don't expect much support from JLR.
Not sure it’s fair to say “design flaw”. There was definitely a design flaw with the previous seamed pipes. They did replace with updated seamless pipes to address that, which should be much better…Plastic pipes is an industry practice in a lot of cars now, not technically a design flaw. Totally cheap and sucky that they went cheaper, don’t like it at all, but not really a design flaw.
That said, at some point I will eventually convert over to the new metal jag parts at 15k or 25k miles or so as a precaution. Why not…I figure I’ll roll with the updated seamless stuff for quite some time and keep an eye on things. Maybe as soon as warranty ends or something, have it done to be proactive far in advance.
Couple of nice vehicles ya got there BTW, but I’m biased ;-0
