Got a can of BG 44K that I’m planning to put in the fuel tank later this week.

Any recommendations for other BG products to run through to do a full system cleaning to get the most benefit before an oil change? I know there are others they say to put in the oil or run directly into the engine, but I’m not entirely sure how to go about doing so on an F-Type and want to make sure I’m not wasting money on additional products that may not have any benefits.

I’m primarily hoping to clean the injectors and valves as I suspect there’s some significant build up.

 

I am a fan of BG 44K and have used it a few times now.
I have also used their oil additive, BG MOA (Motor??? Oil Additive), and their engine flush additive BG EPR (Engine Performance Restoration).
I have no evidence that the MOA or EPR made any difference at all, but they didn't cause any problems either.
I figured that an engine flush was probably due after four years and some 30,000 miles so I used the EPR.
I tried a can of MOA to see if it reduced the massively rattly engine noise but it made no difference. I am now leaning towards a rattly supercharger, not the coupler but the supercharger itself.
None of these products have any chance of cleaning the backs of the intake valves.
As I have previously advised I have also recently tried a can of the CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner, which in theory cleans much of the carbon crud off the backs of the intake valves and the intake tracts, and possibly the injectors as well.
Same story to report - no massive improvement in performance or drive-ability but no drop either and it still goes like stink.

 

Whenever rebuilding a race engine, I would religiously and thoroughly slather MOA all over the reassembled parts, and would then run in the engine with MOA added to the engine oil. My dealer has been adding MOA with the annual oil change in the last couple years. Needless to say, the oil analyses have been showing higher levels of molybdenum recently.

 

Oil additives are very dangerous - at best they do nothing, at worse they cause serious damage. Especially never add stop-leak or liquid gasket type of additives unless you just need to drive it to the scrap yard- these gum up internal passages and make any further repair impossible.

 

Isn’t that like lumping Harvoni and snake oil all into the same pharmaceutical basket?

 

No, it is like lumping mint tea and bloodletting into the same medical treatment basket - best case scenario is that you are still ill, but have minty breath.

 

Discounting the use of BG products represents a huge loss of weaponry in the war against automotive entropy. I worked closely with them at their labs in Wichita 30 years ago while developing specialty performance fuels. I can assure you, they have the “clinical” results to backup the claims for any of their products.

 

Additives are a nerf knife in a gun fight.

We are rehashing old conversation. Lubrication changed in 30 years, what might have been an effective with mineral SAE 40 oils is no longer needed when using synthetic 0W20 oils. When I asked you if BG offered proof of effectiveness of their oil additive products on modern engines you had to admit that they did not.

More so, "drain oil until ceased" test is too easy to rig. It is good showmanship, but poor proof of additive effectiveness. The proper test (that existed for more than 30 years) can be seen in the following video at 3:00 mark:

 

I thoroughly enjoyed that guys video presentation... Engineering testing 'proper style"!

 

Following back up on this. @OzXFR I'm planning to do a motor and differential oil change. Would you recommend the intake cleaner and EPR at the same time, then do the oil changes, then add MOA to the new motor oil? Also, would you recommend doing an initial oil change first, then doing the previous steps?

I can't tell what it is, but something about the car has just seemed off recently. I've had it well into the mid triple digits recently and there seems to be some combination of the car not seeming to be 'breathing' as well as it should along with a fair amount of vibration. No CELs under fairly hard driving, but again, something just doesn't seem quite right with it. I have no idea if any of this is engine related, but I figured taking these steps above won't hurt as a relatively low-cost experiment.

Thanks

 

Yep, the best way to go would be intake cleaner first followed by EPR then an oil change + MOA.
Also an update on mine, it seems to be running exceptionally well now, very smooth at idle and cruise and great throttle response throughout the rev range.
Still bloody rattly though!
Funny thing is if I open the hood and press down on the top of the supercharger (really the coolant jacket) the rattle changes to a lower tone and quietens down a fair bit. Weird!

 

I've always been leery of using additives (other than those already present in the oil) in my engine. I don't have the experience of working in the oil or additive industry, but I had been a mechanic for over 25 years and was ASE certified in my formative years. My opinion is that it may provide some help on the preventative side, but more likely not on the restorative side. To me, the juice isn't worth the squeeze, but I wouldn't fault someone for using some of those products from the more reputable manufacturers.

 

i suspect that large unsupported surface (except on the edges) is acting much like a speaker cone that serves to amplify/transmit the sound waves from within.

 

Yep that makes sense to me.

 

Thanks @OzXFR , glad to hear yours is running smoother now!

My question now is, where do I spray in the intake cleaner?

 

This is how I did it, into the brake booster vacuum line, no drilling no holes one man operation and no fuss no muss: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post2182115