Can’t compress front brake caliper piston.
#1
Can’t compress front brake caliper piston.
So I’m changing my pads and rotors for the first time on this car. I have done this before on other cars I’ve had but this one is giving me a bit of trouble. The pistons seem really hard to compress to fit the new pads over the rotors. Not sure if there is a safer way to compress these ones but they do seem harder than they should be. Don’t want to damage anything so any advice would help.
#2
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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So I’m changing my pads and rotors for the first time on this car. I have done this before on other cars I’ve had but this one is giving me a bit of trouble. The pistons seem really hard to compress to fit the new pads over the rotors. Not sure if there is a safer way to compress these ones but they do seem harder than they should be. Don’t want to damage anything so any advice would help.
I have always used a small flat piece of metal over the piston(s) then a G-clamp over that, then simply screwed the G-clamp in.
Have you taken the caliper right off the caliper holder by removing the 9 mm slide pins?
If not, and you have instead removed the caliper and holder together by undoing the 15 mm caliper holder/bracket bolts then yes it is much harder to compress the brake piston(s) as the caliper holder gets in the way a bit.
Last but not least, have you taken the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and removed some of the fluid?
Not doing so could make it just a little more difficult to compress the piston(s).
#3
Thank you for your feedback.
Yes caliper is completely off. I’ve already removed the cap off the brake fluid reservoir but I didn’t remove any fluid. I put some wood against the pistons and applied a pretty fair amount of pressure against it with another piece of wood but the pistons didn’t budge. That was concerning to me. On my Vette the pistons required very little pressure to compress, so I guess I’m I little more cautious with applying more pressure than I’m used to. I’ll give it a go with some g clamps tomorrow.
I also tried to put the car in maintenance mode a few times but without success. Following the instructions listed on this forum. I thought that may have something to do with it but from what I’m understanding that is more for the rear than the front.
Thank you
Yes caliper is completely off. I’ve already removed the cap off the brake fluid reservoir but I didn’t remove any fluid. I put some wood against the pistons and applied a pretty fair amount of pressure against it with another piece of wood but the pistons didn’t budge. That was concerning to me. On my Vette the pistons required very little pressure to compress, so I guess I’m I little more cautious with applying more pressure than I’m used to. I’ll give it a go with some g clamps tomorrow.
I also tried to put the car in maintenance mode a few times but without success. Following the instructions listed on this forum. I thought that may have something to do with it but from what I’m understanding that is more for the rear than the front.
Thank you
#4
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Yep, maintenance mode is only for the rear brakes.
Sounds like a G-clamp is all you need, the pistons on the 380 mm brakes are fairly large and can be tough to move.
I'm also fairly sure that if you can't get maintenance mode to work then a G-clamp will also work on the rear brake pistons as they are not "wind in" like most other Jag rear brakes.
Sounds like a G-clamp is all you need, the pistons on the 380 mm brakes are fairly large and can be tough to move.
I'm also fairly sure that if you can't get maintenance mode to work then a G-clamp will also work on the rear brake pistons as they are not "wind in" like most other Jag rear brakes.
#5
Ok. Great. Thank you. I appreciate all the help on this forum that people provide. I prefer to do a lot of things myself rather than going to someone else. It’s a great way to learn and I know when I do it I am more thorough than most. Couldn’t do it without the help of other car enthusiasts, as I am not a mechanic. Unfortunately Not too much info out there for the diy person with this car.
Looking forward to being part of the community as this is my first Jaguar. Sold a 2014 c7 corvette with methanol injection, an A&A supercharger, as well as other mods and moved into a 2014 v8 s. I loved the Vette but have always wanted an f type. So far I’m happy with my choice.
Looking forward to being part of the community as this is my first Jaguar. Sold a 2014 c7 corvette with methanol injection, an A&A supercharger, as well as other mods and moved into a 2014 v8 s. I loved the Vette but have always wanted an f type. So far I’m happy with my choice.
#6
I can’t see why the brake maintenance mode would impact pad replacement on the front, but who knows for certain? If you haven’t already seen this particular set of more detailed instructions for putting the car in brake maintenance mode, here they are again:
1. This procedure requires the vehicle in the Park or Neutral position, with the ignition turned ON (the engine must be OFF) and the parking brake system released (Parking brake button pushed down for a second while clutch or brake pedal is depressed).
2. Press (down) and hold the parking brake switch in the release position.(do not release until told to do so)
3. Wait 2 seconds, then press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.(do not release until told to do so)
4. Wait 2 seconds, then turn the ignition Off and back On immediately.
NOTE: An audible noise will be heard to confirm that the parking brake has been released in Service Mode.
5.ONLY NOW, Release the accelerator pedal and release the parking brake switch.
1. This procedure requires the vehicle in the Park or Neutral position, with the ignition turned ON (the engine must be OFF) and the parking brake system released (Parking brake button pushed down for a second while clutch or brake pedal is depressed).
2. Press (down) and hold the parking brake switch in the release position.(do not release until told to do so)
3. Wait 2 seconds, then press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.(do not release until told to do so)
4. Wait 2 seconds, then turn the ignition Off and back On immediately.
NOTE: An audible noise will be heard to confirm that the parking brake has been released in Service Mode.
5.ONLY NOW, Release the accelerator pedal and release the parking brake switch.
#7
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#8
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The first time I replaced the rear brake pads on the F-Type (the 326 mm ones) I got it done by a specialist brake shop.
The mechanic and I both thought/believed that the rear brake pistons wound in like most other Jag rear brakes, so he tried to wind them in using a pair of needle nosed pliers in two of the three "slots" in the pistons. He turned and pushed with all his might and eventually moved the pistons back in about 1 mm. In hindsight we think it was the pushing and not the turning that moved the pistons. But this still wasn't quite enough for the caliper to fit back over the new pads. We then had a brainwave and he simply pushed the pistons in the last 1/2 mm or so using a G-clamp!
So they will push in at least the last 1/2 mm that way.
I didn't have that problem when I upgraded to the 376 mm rear brakes as I was fitting brand new calipers with fully depressed pistons anyway.
#9
I can’t see why the brake maintenance mode would impact pad replacement on the front, but who knows for certain? If you haven’t already seen this particular set of more detailed instructions for putting the car in brake maintenance mode, here they are again:
1. This procedure requires the vehicle in the Park or Neutral position, with the ignition turned ON (the engine must be OFF) and the parking brake system released (Parking brake button pushed down for a second while clutch or brake pedal is depressed).
2. Press (down) and hold the parking brake switch in the release position.(do not release until told to do so)
3. Wait 2 seconds, then press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.(do not release until told to do so)
4. Wait 2 seconds, then turn the ignition Off and back On immediately.
NOTE: An audible noise will be heard to confirm that the parking brake has been released in Service Mode.
5.ONLY NOW, Release the accelerator pedal and release the parking brake switch.
1. This procedure requires the vehicle in the Park or Neutral position, with the ignition turned ON (the engine must be OFF) and the parking brake system released (Parking brake button pushed down for a second while clutch or brake pedal is depressed).
2. Press (down) and hold the parking brake switch in the release position.(do not release until told to do so)
3. Wait 2 seconds, then press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.(do not release until told to do so)
4. Wait 2 seconds, then turn the ignition Off and back On immediately.
NOTE: An audible noise will be heard to confirm that the parking brake has been released in Service Mode.
5.ONLY NOW, Release the accelerator pedal and release the parking brake switch.
One thing That was surprising is how heavy the rotors are in this car. I bought the R1 concepts rotors which are about the same weight as the stock ones. I will definitely be looking to upgrade to the wortec rotors in the future.
#10
Maybe, maybe not.
The first time I replaced the rear brake pads on the F-Type (the 326 mm ones) I got it done by a specialist brake shop.
The mechanic and I both thought/believed that the rear brake pistons wound in like most other Jag rear brakes, so he tried to wind them in using a pair of needle nosed pliers in two of the three "slots" in the pistons. He turned and pushed with all his might and eventually moved the pistons back in about 1 mm. In hindsight we think it was the pushing and not the turning that moved the pistons. But this still wasn't quite enough for the caliper to fit back over the new pads. We then had a brainwave and he simply pushed the pistons in the last 1/2 mm or so using a G-clamp!
So they will push in at least the last 1/2 mm that way.
The first time I replaced the rear brake pads on the F-Type (the 326 mm ones) I got it done by a specialist brake shop.
The mechanic and I both thought/believed that the rear brake pistons wound in like most other Jag rear brakes, so he tried to wind them in using a pair of needle nosed pliers in two of the three "slots" in the pistons. He turned and pushed with all his might and eventually moved the pistons back in about 1 mm. In hindsight we think it was the pushing and not the turning that moved the pistons. But this still wasn't quite enough for the caliper to fit back over the new pads. We then had a brainwave and he simply pushed the pistons in the last 1/2 mm or so using a G-clamp!
So they will push in at least the last 1/2 mm that way.
#11
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