I just removed my badging but this will be very helpful if I ever decide to put them back.
Thanks Rock

 

I guess what confuses me is the off kilter card mask to the lettering - and do the cutout and holes serve any useful purpose....

 

Those MIGHT be provided as guides for a positioning template, used after repainting a bumper by body shops.
Rock's measurements are a good substitute.

 

The body isn't flat; if you applied the letters straight, they would be optically crooked.

I would assume the notch and holes fit an alignment jig at the factory.

 

I think during assembly on the line, there is a jig that aligns badges and they use a roller to seat them. That may be where the notches are used. In the wild....I lose the cardboard and use the alignment as they stay fixed in the adhesive wrap.

DC

 

Just to follow up on the badge discussion, I purchased the “OEM“ leaper from eBay - it showed up with some thick-low quality tape. I tore the “J” off while drying the car quite easily, so I ordered the real OEM one from Brit-car. It’s a huge difference, the lettering is almost flush to the trunk and is definitely better quality. I got a full refund for the one I bought on eBay and the real one was only a few bucks more, but we’ll worth it!

 

Does anybody know the part no. of the "S" badge in black? I cannot find it anywhere, I thought it does not exist but a few posts above @fuzzysquid says he has it...

 

(I haven’t logged in for years but got a notification on this thread…)

For clarification my black S badge is just my original silver badge from the factory, plastidipped. When I did these mods 5 years ago there was no oem black S badge. I don’t know if that’s still the case.