I appear to have the same issue as many (e.g, forum threads "battery drained due to OBD port", "Dead Battery ::FURIOUS::", etc.) who have returned from a vehicle service and found the Low Battery warning the next day on their dash board (and observed the door lock LEDs and hazard light remaining on for hours after parking and locking their car). The solution appears to be resetting the battery module by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.

The trouble is: how exactly do I go about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery?

After removing the trunk liner and opening the power connector box, here's what I see in my F-Type 2017:

F-Type 2017 with trunk liner removed and connector box opened, seen from top

 

See the short thick black cable bolted to the floor, LHS and just below middle of the pic?
That's the battery earth lead.
All you need to do is disconnect that lead for a while (and make sure the end stays away from any metal area).
From memory it's a 14 mm nut to undo, 2 minute job tops.

 

Thanks, OzXFR, I think that did it! The lock light turns off now, the hazard light apparently stays on. Date on dash was reset to 2014.

It was a 13mm nut -- close!

 

Correction: the hazard light turns off, too, it just takes a little longer.

As mentioned, date on dash was reset, windows needed to be reset (wouldn't go up all the way after letting go off window button; reset is done by lowering and raising each window 5 times (documented in owner's manual)); Bluetooth devices were retained.

 

Thanks! by the way, is it normal to see a electricity sparkle when I reconnect the black cable to the bolt?

 

Yes... your trunk lid is open and the courtesy lamp will draw power as soon as you reconnect the battery. Hence, the spark.

 

Is there a reason you recommend disconnecting the positive over the negative?? I would think the sparking would not occur if the negative cable was removed.

 

That IS the negative lead! Well in fact it's the earth/ground which runs from the negative battery terminal to a bolt on the floor of the trunk/boot.
And you are correct, little or no sparking disconnecting and/or reconnecting that lead but potentially lots of sparking from disconnecting and/or reconnecting the positive battery lead.

 

At least here you get good information. The facebook groups kill me. Some of them don't even know what a left handed metric Crescent wrench is.
Correct battery connect/disconnect sequence. Connect positive, then negative. Disconnect negative, then positive.

 

And even more don’t know what a flavistan is. Skyhooks used to be relatively unknown as well until Sikorsky got involved. What about muffler bearings and muffler grease?

 

And don't forget blinker fluid.

 

In the Army we have the Army Oil Analysis Program (AOAP) and send in oil samples on mostly just track vehicles now, used to be all vehicles. So we have Soldiers pull oil samples all the time. New Privates were given trash bags to go collect exhaust samples.

 

Tortlin rods, caniptin pins and bottles of compression were all items we would send newbies to other gas stations to acquire back in the day. Everyone was in on the ploy so it would be a few "we just ran outs" before most would catch on.

 

Don't forget frequency grease. Or, to run an op-check on the AN/TR double E.

 

We used to send newbies for weights. We told 'em they came in short, medium and long, so get the long weight.