F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

How to replace Xenon bulbs

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Old Oct 20, 2019 | 04:03 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DJS
Looks at the photo for any D3S bulb, like this...
https://www.amazon.com/HYB-Headlight.../dp/B01GRTEHKG

That one has a blue insulator. If that’s damaged, I would think it may arc to the glass body if there’s any surface contamination.
NOW I get it!
The OP was talking about part of the globe itself!
 
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Old Oct 20, 2019 | 06:47 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by DJS
Looks at the photo for any D3S bulb, like this...
https://www.amazon.com/HYB-Headlight.../dp/B01GRTEHKG

That one has a blue insulator. If that’s damaged, I would think it may arc to the glass body if there’s any surface contamination.
Yes, the blueish, green tube/wire that runs parallel to the main glass bulb. I think I'll replace it. Bummer, but worth doing right I think.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2019 | 09:08 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DJS
Looks at the photo for any D3S bulb, like this...
https://www.amazon.com/HYB-Headlight.../dp/B01GRTEHKG

That one has a blue insulator. If that’s damaged, I would think it may arc to the glass body if there’s any surface contamination.
+1. Needs to be properly insulated. A TEMPORARY fix with tape should be done immediately.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2019 | 01:07 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DJS
Hmm, pretty sure that wire carries the HV, which they say is 10s of kilovolts, at least during ignition. Not sure what I’d do in your case.
TWO wraps of electrical tape, then?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2019 | 08:34 AM
  #25  
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It was the return wire I damaged so I bit the bullet and replaced it (errrrrr). BTW.... I found changing the lights much more difficult than most indicated on the forum. Access on of both sides my 2015 V8S was a bear even after moving the fuse box and reservoir out of the way. My fuse box wires were secured to the body below the box limiting how far I could move it. Disconnecting the plugs from the bulbs themselves was also way harder than it should have been (although I saw someone else had an issue with that too). And lastly, locking down the lights back into place was the worst. Perhaps the size of my hands was an issue along with the limited space, but I really struggled to manage this while not damaging the bulb (or the return wire in this case). Technically not very complicated of course, but one of the "easy" projects that ends up taking you far longer than you ever expected.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2019 | 10:05 AM
  #26  
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On my car, the harness coming out the fuse box has a connector, that you can de-mate fairly easily. That allows moving the box more. I missed that the first time I tried.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2019 | 11:02 AM
  #27  
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Yep. Did that, but there's nearly no slack with those wires being clipped to the body below. I guess you could try to cut the wire-ties, but I am not sure I could reach it and didn't want to try that blind.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2019 | 04:19 PM
  #28  
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I read somewhere here that it's fairly easy to loosen off the front bumper one side at a time, without dropping it completely and without removing all that many bolts, and then you can gently pull that side of the bumper away just enough to get at the third/underneath headlight mounting bolt (the top two are easy to get at anyway) and then you can completely remove the headlight assembly which would make replacing the globe so much easier.
I know at the time I commented that next time I replace a headlight globe I will try that method.
I'm too lazy to search for that post though so I'll leave it up to someone else!
 
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Old Oct 25, 2019 | 04:53 PM
  #29  
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The right one really isn’t difficult - decent access after you move the fuse box, which is easy; remove two bolts, unplug a connector, then twist it out of the way.

Haven’t had to do the left bulb yet.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 10:33 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Milo
I gave it a go over the weekend and it worked. There is a switch to release the bulb. Once you know how, it is an easy 15mins DIY exercise. For the ones being no semi-professional mechanics, here is a brief step-by-step guide on how to replace the D3S xenon bulb in the passenger headlight of a MY14 (I have pre-facelift bi-xenon headlights with this moving-with-the-steering-option):
  • Open the bonnet, make sure lights are switched off.
  • Passenger side: the headlight has a rubber cover on its back. The bulb is behind it. Its access is blocked by a black/red fusebox.
  • Undo two bolts that are holding the box.
  • Plug out the black connector out of the socket of the very external side of the headlight (to release the black cable being between the fusebox and the headlight). Careful - you need to press a plastic piece to release it, no force required.
  • Once both bolts are gone and the connector is unplugged, you can move the fusebox up towards the radiator. This way you should gain comfortable access to the rubber cover of the headlight.
  • Open the rubber cover, you will see the back of the bulb. The bulb is connected via a cable on its lower end.
  • On the left side of the bulb, you will see a small black plastic - it is a switch, move it. This should release the bulb.
  • Pull on the bulb to loosen it. Once loose, unplug the connector of the bulb. It is the most inconvenient part, careful not to brake it.
  • Once unplugged, you can take out the old bulb and replace it with the new one. Follow the steps above upwards to connect and close everything.
Hope it helps, many thanks for your advice!
  • Pull on the bulb to loosen it. Once loose, unplug the connector of the bulb. It is the most inconvenient part, careful not to brake it.

I got to this point (pulling the electrical connection off the bulb) and could not get it off....was afraid of breaking it. Is there a catch/trick to doing this....


Thanks all!

jeff
 
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 09:02 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jcb-memphis
  • Pull on the bulb to loosen it. Once loose, unplug the connector of the bulb. It is the most inconvenient part, careful not to brake it.

I got to this point (pulling the electrical connection off the bulb) and could not get it off....was afraid of breaking it. Is there a catch/trick to doing this....


Thanks all!

jeff
It has been a while since I upgraded mine, but as I recall, they are very, very tight on the bulb. Very hard to pull off, but if you have everything removed, they do come off. No tricks...just elbow grease.

I am assuming you have already turned the locking ring to release the bulb? And you are talking about pulling the BULB out. The plug has a clip to press and then it pulls out too, but very tight!

Good luck

DC
 
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Old Mar 8, 2022 | 06:06 AM
  #32  
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Thanks. Yes, I have pulled the bulb "out" but could not get the clip off...did press the little clip at it was hard. What you are saying is that it is "pull hard" too, right? (on the clip)


jeff
 
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Old Mar 8, 2022 | 07:06 AM
  #33  
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I vaguely recall that when I replaced the globes some 5 years ago now those wiring clips were very tight and I levered them open/off with a flat blade screwdriver.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2022 | 07:24 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
I vaguely recall that when I replaced the globes some 5 years ago now those wiring clips were very tight and I levered them open/off with a flat blade screwdriver.
Thank you. That is exactly what I needed to know. (both of the last two replies have been awesome, thank you!!!)
 
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Old Mar 8, 2022 | 10:36 AM
  #35  
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Yes that wire to the DS3 bulb is a pain and I also had to lever it off like OzXFR. Even then I never could see what tab needed to be depressed. I distorted the sheet metal shell a bit but was able to reform it back close to factory using pliers. This was NOT on a Jaguar as I have LED headlights in my XJR.
I used some upgraded bulbs but they are expensive at around $250 for the pair.

I used Phillips 42403 XV2 Xtreme Vision bulbs. Anyone use these? Just installed them so claims of better light output are hard to determine.
DS3 Bulbs DS3 Bulbs


I replace them in pairs as the bulbs degrade over time and the car was a 2013 model (Lincoln MKS EcoBoost) so a good number of years on them. I first noticed the reduced HID light output on my old 2005 S-Type R. Replaced one side at first and noticed it looked different from the original side so then replaced that side too so they looked the same.
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