I have a 2010 Jaguar XF 5.0 that was throwing a low coolant code and a key battery low code after driving for a while it's through a transmission abs battery as well as the first two codes. I had recently taken it to a reputable mechanic which stated that the coolant was not low it was probably a sensor. Then all these other codes happened about a month later while I was out of state. I got my son-in-law to charge the battery and it cranked but would not stay cranked past 5 minutes doing the same thing again. I don't know what to do at this point. I inherited this car and can't afford to sink thousands of dollars into it. I just need to trade it. Any suggestions would be helpful I'm not sure exactly how to get it out of limp mode although I have read several post that I'm willing to try. Please help

 

Also how do I check the codes if I can't crank the car and what is crank but not turn over if I have a push button crank.

 

Bev,

1. put an appropriate fully charged battery on the vehicle and many of these spurious electrical issues are likely to disappear. A new 'charged' battery still needs to be charged overnight before fitting to the vehicle.
2. when discussing or asking for advice about codes, give the actual codes and not any descriptions you may have been given.

Cranking for 5 minutes? No battery is going to survive that kind of treatment. Code reading only requires the ignition to be ON and NOT the engine to be turning over or running.

3. low coolant code - perhaps low coolant warning message? Check the level in the tank. If it's up to the level then it's only going to be a faulty sensor.
4. key battery low code - again a warning message? Just replace the batteyr in the remote.

Graham

 

Bev, to check the error codes of the car, you simply start with the car in the off state. Now, plug in your code reader and then sit in the driver's seat and leaving your foot OFF of the brake pedal, hit the START/STOP button. This will turn on the car, but not start the engine. At this point, you can read the codes. Post the codes here as what you are describing can have a lot of different possibilities. The codes will help point us in the right direction.

Like GGG stated, something as simple as a bad battery will put these cars through hell. Random codes, random problems, etc. So, I would say to also pull the battery from the car and take it to a local auto parts shop and have them do a load test on it. It could be something as simple as just having a weak battery. Please do not buy just the cheapest battery you find. Your car is not going to like it. What you are after is called an "AGM" battery. Yes, they cost a few dollars more than a conventional battery. But, you can buy a normal battery, have it work in the car for six months just to then start having these issues all over again to then have to buy the AGM battery.

Keeps us aware of what you find and we can help you get the car back up and running.

 

I wonder if Bev resolved their issues...

 

Logged off 11 minutes after making second post and hasn't been back in 35 days.

• Last Activity: 01-04-2022

Graham

 

I guess Bev resolved their issues. Another satisfied "member"?

 

I am new and considering a used 2010 I know is in Limp mode. Seller is tired of dealing with it so is taking a loss but before I jump in could anybody guesstimate some approximate cost? Will I spend 3k or more to get this fixed? I have no codes and not going to see the vehicle till Thursday? Any advice on what to look for will help. I plan on taking a code reader with me...

 

if I should make a new thread I'm happy too...this just fell into the search that I was looking for

 

Your best bet is to read the appropriate forum a lot.

If you then see you can DIY diagnose, may make sense to get the car. Otherwise, move on.