MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Jag MK2 Sill Wiring Harness

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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 08:28 AM
  #1  
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Default Jag MK2 Sill Wiring Harness

I have the installation of the LH and RH sill wiring harness ahead of me. Does anyone have any tips to make this an easier job than it appears to be?

Thank you!

Lin
 
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 08:37 AM
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Doesn't the harness go over the doors like the MKI? I used a coat hanger and run it thru the hard places then pulled harness thru.
 

Last edited by Jagfixer; Mar 17, 2015 at 08:37 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 02:53 PM
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If the old one is still in - bits of string on the end of it before you pull it are ideal.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 07:43 PM
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Default Jag MK2 Sill Wiring Harness

The old harness is already out and no the wiring goes through the sills, not over the door. Thanks.
Lin
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 04:29 AM
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Hi Lin

Does this photo helps?




Regards,
Oliver
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 06:10 AM
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I have used a vacuum cleaner to suck a piece of string through, then used the string to pull the wires. On an Alfa Spider though but it might work on your jag.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 06:13 AM
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Default Jag MK2 Sill Wiring Harness

Oliver,
yes. Those are helpful. At least now I can see what the probable path looks like. Of course, my outer sill is not removed so it will still be a challenge.
Thank you!
Lin
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 08:36 AM
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Default Jag MK2 Sill Wiring Harness

Oliver,
It looks like you installed new inner sills. Were the wire clips the same on the original inner sills that you removed?

Lin
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 07:20 AM
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Hi Lin,
The position of the clips are not exactly the same as original (but +/- they have been nearly those positions).
Regards,
Oliver
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 05:15 AM
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Try using a plastic "snake", the ones domestic electricians use when installing extra power points. Rigid enough to push thru but also flexible to work around obstacles.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:54 AM
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There should be an access hole at the front of the rear wheel arch. It's normally covered by a grommet. When I did mine in the mid-80s, I removed the looms, but pulled a piece of string behind the loom. If you haven't got this, then a fairly stiff piece of wire will be needed. I'd use this to get a piece of string through first. Remember halfway along the loom some wires come out of another hole to go up the central door pillar. Of course the factory workers had to get the loom through with nothing to help them, so it is possible. They probably had what 'redtriangle' mentioned. When I had some electrical extensions done in my house the electricians had these, and some were as long as fishing rods !
 
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 06:46 AM
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I'd love to go back in time & see how they did this job on the production line!

Also, how they managed to fit the rear bumper in reasonable time. It took me 5 hours last Saturday nite.

There were spanners thrown severely and a liberal amount of swearing!
 

Last edited by redtriangle; Mar 23, 2015 at 06:47 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 11:30 AM
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Default Replacing Rear Bumper.

I too have replaced the rear bumper after a complete re-spray. It took forever! And I managed to damage the new paint job! The problem is that the two main bolts at the rear are "head heavy" In that you can locate them but cannot turn them to get a bite in the thread. As you fiddle about, the heavy head pulls the bolt down and out of the hole. In the end, I fashioned a piece of wood to jam between the bolt head and the bumper. Then I could carefully rotate the bolt head "flat by flat until I had a bite. The exhaust tail pipes also have VERY sharp edges!
 
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