Jaguar Mk2 340 Restoration to date
#241
Well managed to get 2 doors on and in epoxy primer, and a 3rd door in primer, the last door skin has arrived, so I will spin the car around and get that last 2 doors on shortly.
I have ordered more Zinc rich primer for the bonnet and boot, so will get the bonnet in primer before turning her around, I can then finish the boot getting that in final paint and finish the speaker box trimming etc. I can then run the cables in the boot for the lights fuel pump etc.
I have ordered more Zinc rich primer for the bonnet and boot, so will get the bonnet in primer before turning her around, I can then finish the boot getting that in final paint and finish the speaker box trimming etc. I can then run the cables in the boot for the lights fuel pump etc.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (05-17-2018)
#242
#243
Advice required please gents, when I took out the window frames from the doors I had to wrestle them quite a bit, I consulted the manual for guidance, but it simply says remove the regulator from the glass channel and remove, (I have shortened that a bit) it wasn't difficult as such, but there was no finesse shall I say, however I would not want to put them back in in the same manner with finished paint.
Can anyone explain the easy way to do this, do you have the window up or down when you install the regulator, I had the glass in one frame when it came out, not in another etc. I have to trial fit the frames shortly to re-drill some fixing points that had rotted out, so would like a better approach that I can adopt before final fit later with paint on the doors.
Thanks in advance
Jon
Can anyone explain the easy way to do this, do you have the window up or down when you install the regulator, I had the glass in one frame when it came out, not in another etc. I have to trial fit the frames shortly to re-drill some fixing points that had rotted out, so would like a better approach that I can adopt before final fit later with paint on the doors.
Thanks in advance
Jon
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Hi Lin, both, but the rears are worse, it was mainly getting the glass disconnected from the regulators, do you leave the glass in the frame when you take it out, or leave it in the door, I am pretty sure the glass would not simply stay in the door, and I couldn't figure out whether to keep the window up or down to disconnect the regulator, or does the manual refer to actually lifting the glass out of the channel leaving the channel and regulator in the door, that would be easy if the rubber wasn't stuck to the glass with age at least if not something else !
I could do with a kind of :-
Wind the window down
Pull glass from channel
Undo frame fixings
Remove frame with glass
Remove glass channel
Remove regulator
Assemble in reverse order
I looked on valvechatter, and you seemed to miss this step, you took the frame out and then the regulator, but I couldn't see how/when you removed the glass.
I can get it back in, but I would rather learn from someone else's experience than damage the paint or break the glass learning for myself.
Hopefully you can give me one of your perfectly descriptive narratives.
I could do with a kind of :-
Wind the window down
Pull glass from channel
Undo frame fixings
Remove frame with glass
Remove glass channel
Remove regulator
Assemble in reverse order
I looked on valvechatter, and you seemed to miss this step, you took the frame out and then the regulator, but I couldn't see how/when you removed the glass.
I can get it back in, but I would rather learn from someone else's experience than damage the paint or break the glass learning for myself.
Hopefully you can give me one of your perfectly descriptive narratives.
#246
Hi Jon,
I can only speak about the “S” type, but the doors are essentially the same.
For removal, and for both front and rear, remove (wriggle out) the frame, with the glass still attached to the “sliding channel”. With the frame out, slide the glass sideways to disconnect it from the channel.
For the replacement of the glass, you place the glass into position on the window winding channel, and then slide the glass horizontally until it is between the legs of the window frame, then lower (a bit more wriggle) the frame into position.
For the rear windows, the manual suggests winding the glass up to about one third of its height, before lowering/inserting the frame.
Good luck!
Richard Hinds
I can only speak about the “S” type, but the doors are essentially the same.
For removal, and for both front and rear, remove (wriggle out) the frame, with the glass still attached to the “sliding channel”. With the frame out, slide the glass sideways to disconnect it from the channel.
For the replacement of the glass, you place the glass into position on the window winding channel, and then slide the glass horizontally until it is between the legs of the window frame, then lower (a bit more wriggle) the frame into position.
For the rear windows, the manual suggests winding the glass up to about one third of its height, before lowering/inserting the frame.
Good luck!
Richard Hinds
The following users liked this post:
TilleyJon (10-28-2017)
#247
Thanks Richard,
For my clarity of mind -
Start with window closed, wiggle frame up, glass will stay in place (frame raises in relation to the glass) then when the frame is clear, slide glass sideways disconnecting it from the regulator and remove glass ?
I assume "sliding channel" is the bottom channel that connects the glass to the regulator, and when you say disconnect it from the channel, is that glass from channel or channel(and glass) from regulator, I assume the latter.
Rear the same, but with the glass lower before inserting the frame ?
I seem to recall that my glass would not come out of the bottom of the frame (the frame was narrower across the legs at the bottom than the glass) but I will have to check, I am away this weekend so not with the bits. The S Type should be the same, it's only the frame height that is different, the doors are essentially the same
If the glass does slide out of the bottom of the frame legs that makes
sense, but I think that's where I had the problem, I had to try and disconnect the glass channel from the regulator whilst trying to get the frame out at the same time, so I needed to be an Octopus to do it, I ended up laying the door face down on the floor and having a right wrestle with it to get them out, I didn't get one frame out the same as another and in the heat of battle I can't recall if any way was any easier than another I just remember thinking how the hell am I going to get these back in without damaging the paint !!!
For my clarity of mind -
Start with window closed, wiggle frame up, glass will stay in place (frame raises in relation to the glass) then when the frame is clear, slide glass sideways disconnecting it from the regulator and remove glass ?
I assume "sliding channel" is the bottom channel that connects the glass to the regulator, and when you say disconnect it from the channel, is that glass from channel or channel(and glass) from regulator, I assume the latter.
Rear the same, but with the glass lower before inserting the frame ?
I seem to recall that my glass would not come out of the bottom of the frame (the frame was narrower across the legs at the bottom than the glass) but I will have to check, I am away this weekend so not with the bits. The S Type should be the same, it's only the frame height that is different, the doors are essentially the same
If the glass does slide out of the bottom of the frame legs that makes
sense, but I think that's where I had the problem, I had to try and disconnect the glass channel from the regulator whilst trying to get the frame out at the same time, so I needed to be an Octopus to do it, I ended up laying the door face down on the floor and having a right wrestle with it to get them out, I didn't get one frame out the same as another and in the heat of battle I can't recall if any way was any easier than another I just remember thinking how the hell am I going to get these back in without damaging the paint !!!
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The following 2 users liked this post by MK2:
Don B (05-17-2018),
lickahotskillet (07-05-2018)
#253
Fantastic, Spielberg eat your heart out !
This is perfect, I will try it out, I took mine out without that finesse, that now clarifies what Richard described.
You should put this on Valvechatter under the windows and doors post Lin.
Thanks to Richard and Lin, I now know what the procedure is for the window glass and frame installation.
This Forum and it's members are such a great resource.
This is perfect, I will try it out, I took mine out without that finesse, that now clarifies what Richard described.
You should put this on Valvechatter under the windows and doors post Lin.
Thanks to Richard and Lin, I now know what the procedure is for the window glass and frame installation.
This Forum and it's members are such a great resource.
#254
Wow, well done Lin! That sure beats my verbal description, and proves the old adage, “a picture is worth a thousand words”!
Jon-it seems pointless replying to your further query, as Lin’s video says it all.
As a point of interest, what filler or gasket will you apply between the top of the door frame and the underneath of the window frame? Good luck with your re-assembly process, which of course we will all expect to be videoed!!
Richard
Jon-it seems pointless replying to your further query, as Lin’s video says it all.
As a point of interest, what filler or gasket will you apply between the top of the door frame and the underneath of the window frame? Good luck with your re-assembly process, which of course we will all expect to be videoed!!
Richard
#255
Thank you gents,
Glad to hear that the videos hit the mark. Jon, I will post them on my valvechatter site. I am just always a little behind on getting things from my head or camera onto the site. As the Manual states, on the rear doors the window must be up about a third of the way up to fit the window frames. That is not required on the front. Spielberg, I am not, and I was just the actor anyway. My wife, Judith, was the videographer! Credit goes to her.
Lin
Glad to hear that the videos hit the mark. Jon, I will post them on my valvechatter site. I am just always a little behind on getting things from my head or camera onto the site. As the Manual states, on the rear doors the window must be up about a third of the way up to fit the window frames. That is not required on the front. Spielberg, I am not, and I was just the actor anyway. My wife, Judith, was the videographer! Credit goes to her.
Lin
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A little slow, been busy with work and away last weekend, there is never enough hours in the day, and with the short days and colder nights, one never gets as much done as one would like.
The Bonnet took quite a bit longer than I thought to line up, the repairs to the hinge mounting points threw it off, not a lot, just enough to make it a pain in the proverbial !
1/32nd " at that point makes a big difference at the center of the grill at the front, and when your trying to do it on your own it is not exactly simple !!!
Anyhow, the cussing is over for now. Just put the skin on the second back door, and it is nearly 1/4" shorter(front to back) than the other rear door skin, so have to gap it up with the MIG which is always fun.
The Bonnet took quite a bit longer than I thought to line up, the repairs to the hinge mounting points threw it off, not a lot, just enough to make it a pain in the proverbial !
1/32nd " at that point makes a big difference at the center of the grill at the front, and when your trying to do it on your own it is not exactly simple !!!
Anyhow, the cussing is over for now. Just put the skin on the second back door, and it is nearly 1/4" shorter(front to back) than the other rear door skin, so have to gap it up with the MIG which is always fun.
Last edited by TilleyJon; 11-07-2017 at 11:25 AM.
#260