Just saw this after I had set it up with the lasers, with no Toe in (wheels set parallel, it measured at 44 5/16" so 44.5" with the toe in set looks like my laser setup work.

Thanks CSBush for that, Lin, hopefully you get your answer too.

 

Chuck and Jon,
Thank you both! I will split the difference.
Lin

 

So i decided to go for coating the underside with Upol Raptor bed liner, it is supposed to be super durable, water tight, flexible and hard as nails !

I gave the underside a full 2 coats of epoxy in red oxide color, and then another coat of grey epoxy primer for contrast color so I could ensure full coverage.

Then taped up and went for it, 4 Ltrs of Raptor gave 2 good coats, and I am so far pleased with the results.

It has a slight textured finish, but should be much better for corrosion protection than other stoneguard products (I hope) It will get another 2 coats of 1K gloss black to finish the underside, I will then get her off the rotisserie and onto my other set of wheels/dolly I made up so I can paint the interior and engine bay ready for some reassembly at last.

 

That is a nice finish on there- looks very good and should seal nicely!

 

Thanks csbush, hopefully it's fully sealed, it's had nearly eight Ltrs of epoxy and raptor altogether, even I can't have missed anything after 8 different coats, and it has 2 coats to go!

Just threaded the tie rod ends ready for the new track rod ends and Gators this week, should have that buttoned down this weekend.

 

Got 3 more coats of gloss on the underside, and actually bolted on the first thing back onto the bodyshell, the fuel lines, quite a monumental occasion, after all the stripping, welding and finishing finally to put something back !

I decided to go with an M3 "Rubnut" which fitted into the original holes for the brake/fuel lines. I had to clean some out as there was so much paint on them, these I painted again with a small brush, put paint on the insert and put the insert in with wet paint to ensure a good seal.

I used P clips so all this can be taken off and no fear of damaging the paint and allowing corrosion with the original steel clips. I also went with brass machine screws and stainless washers for corrosion resistance, the inserts have brass nuts built in so again no corrosion issues in the future.

The track rod ends still haven't arrived, so I haven't been able to get on with finishing that hopefully they will arrive today, otherwise I won't get them until after the Easter break.

 

Progress! Looking very nice Jon.
Lin

 

TilleyJon,
Here, hear on the put something on to stay! Great progress. Looks like it will be a driver before the year is out.
It's always continued weirdness, putting parts on & taking them back off. My engine and transmission are out, and the rear end has been in and out twice in the last three weeks.

 

Thank you Lin
Clyde, thank you, at least I'm staying stock, so I don't have the same trial and see issues you have undertaken thank goodness, you are doing a remarkable job, I can only doff my Tilley to you. I'm not sure it will be a driver this year, but I have set a goal to drive it to a friends wedding next year !

I managed to spray the engine bay today, so got to see the body color on part of the car at least, I will post some pics when it's cured some more.

Blasted off the exhaust heat shields and handbrake compensator, I will paint those tomorrow, handbrake cables arrived and a few other parts so will try and finish the axles this week.

I was blasting off the Panhard rod assembly and realized that the adjusting end has been welded at the top of the thread, it must have snapped at some point in the past so this will have to be replaced.

 

Pic of the engine bay in Jaguar Gunmetal Grey.

Fitted the exhaust shields and handbrake compensator, and finished some bits on the rear axle, install handbrake cables ready for the new brake pots when I get them.

I lost one of the woodruff keys for the rear hubs, (it's here somewhere!) so I ordered another from SNG, it was too long by 20mm and too high by 2mm !!!
I had to machine off 2mm from the top edge in the picture, and cut it down in length, other than that it was a perfect fit ! Being too long obviously stops the nut going on and being too high stops the hub going onto the taper.

Another little conundrum, I sprayed the radiator and when I was moving it I realized that it had an extra pipe on the filler neck, so I'm back to the oddity of an expansion tank. There must have been one fitted, but the car was partly dismantled when I got it, and there is no sign of one, the radiator was in the car but on the back seat not the engine bay ! So I will probably fit and expansion tank and utilize the extra connection, unless anyone has seen this before and know what else it could be for ?

 

Well I thought I would get some bit cleaned and painted, as I can now put stuff back. So I cleaned and painted some of the brackets and then set on the brake servo.

I have ordered the fluid side repair kit, and dismantled the servo to check all was in order and to replace the seal in the cylinder.

Here are some pictures of the progress so far.

 

Jon


Looks great! You did a clean job with the lower vent openings. You probably do not need to go to the extreme as me but one thing I wished I did before putting the engine is, is to line the trans tunnel and possibly the firewall with "Lava shield" by Heat Shield Products to prevent heat into the car. I cannot do it now without removing the engine so what I did that helped was to fabricate two shields around the exhaust about two feet long around the trans area and use Lava Shield. That reduced the heat build up in the trans tunnel. I think Doug used something similar on his trans tunnel and firewall. The Lava Shield looks nice, looks like carbon fiber a little and is very thin, and just is applied with a adhesive back. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-shield

 

Thanks Primaz, I have been looking at this, I think you recommended it to me before.

There already heat shields as in this pic https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...e-img_1715.jpg , would you line those, or does the heat sit in the trans tunnel.

That was my dilemma, stop the heat at the heat shields (Lava on the shields), or stop it getting into the car (lava on the tunnel), or is there somewhere else you would recommend putting extra shields ?

 

Very nice Jon. Someday maybe my car will look that clean!

 

The stock rear heat shields are fine, you could line those but it is not necessary. What I did is have a round exhaust pipe wider than the exhaust pipe I used. That was then cut in half and bent a little so that it was more of a "u" shape. That was mounted above the exhaust pipes in that 2 foot area below the trans tunnel which has prevented most of the heat from getting into that cavity. I had to use heat shields as I did not think of lining the trans tunnel before I put the engine/trans in and on my car I cannot take the trans out without removing the engine.

 

Part 2 of the brake servo, the parts arrived for the fluid side repair, carefully taking the air valve apart, the first picture shows the top separated revealing the top air valve and spring, and the lower air valve set inside the large diaphragm.

There are 2 gaskets one attached to the large diaphragm and the other under that, these are carefully separated as these do not seem to be available, this reveals the larger spring and push rod which sits inside the pressure piston.

The 4 bolts can then be removed and the air valve separated from the main cylinder revealing the piston. This is carefully removed, you can see the piston seal which is part of the repair kit.

Everything was cleaned, checked, repainted etc. and then finally put back together and attached to the cover ready to be bolted back into the car. I will use a black foam or rubber seal when this is mounted just because I think it will look better, and help stop water sitting between the 2 mating surfaces.

Track rod ends have finally arrived with the gators, so I will get the front suspension completed this weekend.

 

TilleyJon,
Looks like it'll stop on a dime and give you nine cents change.

 

Maybe it won't work at all and I will be rebuilding the front end Clyde!!!

 

Autopsy of the brake master cylinder, for anyone interested that has not done the seals on the master cylinder here are some pics and info that are not clear in the manual.

Once you have taken the innards out from the cylinder, you will have what you see in the last picture, which is the insides back together with new seals.

In order to fit the new seal you need to remove the spring from the plunger, the spring retainer has a tab on one side which needs to be pulled out slightly to release the spring retainer from the plunger, you can see where the tab is on the first picture.

The valve now comes away from the spring retainer by moving it sideways to the larger area in pic 2. You will then have a dismantled assembly as in pic 3. Note the position of the spring washer (pic 4), this is quite small and can easily be lost.

The seals can now be changed, and the assembly put back together in reverse order, the tab can be pushed in slightly before pushing the spring retainer onto the plunger so that it will "click" back in place, be careful not to push the valve when reassembling as it will easily come back out of the retainer until the retainer is back on the plunger.

I'm in the process of refurbishing the pedal box and clutch cylinder and will post when that is completed.

 

Ok so I think I'm going mad !

Picture 1 is from MK2 (Lin's) website, pic 2 is my pedal box with a new spring ordered as a Clutch return spring, but fitted on the brake pedal, and the final picture is from the parts catalogue showing the brake return spring.

Either I AM going mad (which is possible), or the parts catalogue and SNG Barrett are showing/suppling the wrong spring or this is the correct spring and Lin and I are fitting them incorrectly, can Lin or someone please tell me I am not going mad, and that I need to order a Brake return spring to fit on the Clutch pedal !!!