Hi all,

I wonder if you could help me - I've only just discovered this site so first post for me, but it seems like there's lots of knowledgeable people here.

I'm taking my 1960 mk2 to bits so that I can refresh the weather proofing on the chassis steel. I have an engine crane on its way but just realised I don't have the correct lifting tool as shown in the service manual. I have 2 braces on the engine that are fixed through the head studs - hopefully I've managed to attach a picture. Are these OK to lift with? I'm planning to leave the gearbox attached, so estimate of weight is ~400kg?

If not OK, do I have any other options?

Any advice would be much appreciated - hopefully I can return the favour at some point.

If anyone would like any photos of it as it comes apart just ask.

Cheers,

Barney

 

 

Second attempt!

 

When you get the engine etc. Out I recommend towing it to a place that will bead blast the body and chassis. Then use Por 15 metal prep then their chassis paint and the car will nr rust.

 

Barney, those lifting eyes bolted to the head are forged and very strong - more than adequate for removing the engine/trans. A load leveler on the hoist is a big help in getting the proper angle to help the trans clear the firewall. I found elevating the rear of the car on jack stands with the front end on the ground makes for a lot less angle needed for the engine/trans during removal. Good luck with your project.

 

Doug, many thanks for the quick reply - that's good to know, and saved me a bit of worry. The engine crane turns up tomorrow, and I saw they did a load leveller and luckily ordered one at the same time, so its good to know that was the right choice. Good tip about jacking up the rear - I'm a little tight on head room so that might make all the difference.

Primaz - ideally I'd do exactly that, but I'm having to do the strip of the old underseal myself. Once the engine is out, I plan to spend a great deal of time protecting the paintwork and interior, then I've got a few options for stripping the old gunk. Ranging from elbow grease and a scraper to angle grinder with wire brush attachment. Then its more prep and POR15 - apparently its lethal but the best it gets.

I'll let you know how I get on ASAP.

Cheers,
B

 

Right! A productive day - the engine is out and no major disasters. I ordered the engine crane and load leveller from sgs engineering - a really good company, good price and they do next working day delivery for free. Enough of the plugs - once the crane was assembled we rolled the car out of the garage as there wasnt much headroom in there.

Jacked up the rear, but then had to jack up front a little to fit the legs of the crane under the wishbones (the legs are quite wide). The load leveller worked well and between three of us we got it out in an hour and a half.

If anyone is following the haynes manual method, there are a few extra buts that i needed to remove to get it out cleanly:

- washer bottle bracket
- starter solenoid and water deflector above it
- as soon as you can get access, remove the bolt through the bearing in the rear engine support rod. Otherwise it will neve escape!
- i found a water hose(?) connected to the brake servo housing that wasnt mentioned? Not the vacuum tube.

Apart from that the gearbox mount bracket spring is very stiff so the split pin came out by breaking it - that's it. Would reccomend a soft blanket canle tied across the bridge of the front where the grille sits - you will hit this with the flywheel as it comes out. Definitely remove te gearlever too!

B

 

I guess saloons don't have the nasty habit of falling backwards off the jackstands like their slender cousin the "E" when the motor comes free. I was about to post a warning when I read you had it. Well Done!

 

Hi Steve,

No luckily the proper jacking points are sound and the rears are very close to the wheel arches so most of the weight is forward still. Its now back on the rear wheels so all is well.

I have found that the pipe to the brake servo is definitely vacuum, just surprised by where it routed to on the engine!
B

 

You never know with British engineering, somehow they would incorporate the water jacket into the brake servo unit so it will function properly.