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Hi, My name is Kenneth Lopour, I'm from San Antonio TX. I have beautiful 2001 Vanden Plas that my wife drives and is her favorite car in this world. I have been on the site a few times searching for much needed advice and information about this little kitty that drives ME crazy trying to figure out every little tic that rear it's ugly head, and I have found so many good posts from all of the owners here. Now though, I am at the crossroads. Yesterday the engine started pouring oil out of the bottom between the engine and tranny. Being that the car is a 2001 I decided to buy a rebuilt long block and just put a new engine in. She wants to keep the car anyway and she'd be dead before I could make her sell it. So..... I was looking for a repair manual so I might have some reference points, but can't seem to find it. It's mentioned but the post was in 2012. Any help would be appreciated. I have an extensive automotive background so I think the swap won't be too bad but I always like to know I have a place to get answers. I am hoping I can get it from y'all, THANKS in advance,
Kenneth Lopour
It sounds like you've already found your way to the X308 forum so there's no need for a link to it from me. The 'HOW TO' thread at the top is a good place to start for information on regular issues.
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Yesterday the engine started pouring oil out of the bottom between the engine and tranny.
You may be jumping to conclusions. This is actually a quite common leak. There's an oil galley plug on the back of the block that commonly was insufficiently torqued at the factory, as in barely finger tight. Eventually it will leak quite badly. While it requires removing either the engine or transmission to get to it, its like a $3.00 seal, plus go ahead and replace the $30 rear-main seal while you have it apart.
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You may be jumping to conclusions. This is actually a quite common leak. There's an oil galley plug on the back of the block that commonly was insufficiently torqued at the factory, as in barely finger tight. Eventually it will leak quite badly. While it requires removing either the engine or transmission to get to it, its like a $3.00 seal, plus go ahead and replace the $30 rear-main seal while you have it apart.
I will make sure I keep my eye out for that, but I decided to replace the engine with a rebuilt Long block. I figured that it being a 2001 I didn't want to go down a black hole as I was starting to have some other issues as well. Misses will get the car she wants and I won't be fixing every other little thing that might go wrong.
Most of your Jaguar's future issues are going to be the accessories and bits hanging off the engine so while you have it out, take advantage of the situation. Take the alternator to a shop and have it rebuilt with new bearings, brushes and regulator or buy a NEW one along with the starter motor which is a real bear to change with the engine in place. Press new bearings into the accessory drive belt tensioner and idler pulleys. Replace the water pump, the crossover pipe, thermostat tower, the suicide hoses/heater hoses under the intake manifold and the octopus hose at the firewall. Order the part load breather hose and the little tubes going to the coolant reservoir. Put in new O2 sensors. Power steering pumps are generally pretty robust and last a long time, but you WILL need a new return hose. You might want to consider replacing or rebuilding the AC compressor while its out, but its generally pretty easy to remove and replace anyway despite that it looks impossible. Of course ALL of the gaskets and seals.
Lastly, the engine wiring harness is going to be quite brittle at this point. You want to be very careful with all the connections. Don't try to fight them. If you don't see how they disengage, search on this forum or post a question. Most of the harness anchors will break, guaranteed so you'll want to order some replacements to have on hand. I kind of like these zip-tie anchors
, tho if I'm doing something like a Corvette, I will get the correct original style. Plan on having to re-wrap portions of the wiring harness as about half the electrical tape will be unraveling. And CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN the engine bay while the motor is out. That way when something does need work in the future, its SO much more pleasant a job than when the engine bay is caked with grease-mud. Do all that and you probably won't have to open the hood again for anything other than oil changes for a long time.
And if you have any thoughts of this Jaguar retaining value as a classic car someday in the distant future, hang on to the original engine and parts because they have numbers and/or date codes that associate them to the car they were originally installed in.
The repair manual I think you are looking for is sometimes referred to as the JTIS or Jaguar Technical Information System. Its a Windows program containing all the instructions and diagrams normally found in a paper shop manual. Somebody posted it in downloadable form version 1.4 many years ago. I don't recall the link or if a newer one is available but that should help you find it.
The only way to remove it is by banning the ssnake registration which I have done. You will get a notification "Re-registered: this old duplicate registration banned to remove it".
Update:
As of today Thursday the 27th of June the engine is sitting on the ground and I think is a now Long Block as I have removed all the accessories. Pictures following. My question at the moment is What is the best gasket set I should get to put my engine back together with. dirty, nasty, pressure wash tomorrow
I've copied the latest post #17 from your Intro thread to a new thread in X308 forum. Now you have got to the engine removed stage, that is the place to post technical questions.
replacing my engine.
