well i have a catch can that's been sitting around same size as the jegs one.. just need to see which pcv lines to hook it up to.

 

make sure its not the type that has a atmospheric vent.


Leave the pcv valve bolted on to the pass side valve cover, your going to install the sep just after the valve and some where on that vacuum route.


my plan was to thread a fitting in to the pcv outlet and run that in to the sep. I have an extra pcv I was going to cut part so I can use that original outlet to plug in to the vacuum line for the sep outlet so I don't have to molest the stock vac line.

 

The smoke and code have stayed off after the o2 sensor. A few drive cycles after the next code that came up was P0430. Its hard getting the spun cats in california but I should have them installed in the next few days.

 

I installed a oil separator. Unfortunately my plan didn't go as planed. The oil caused the vacuum line that goes to the PCV to degrade and it broke off. On the bright side I eliminated a previous vacuum leak on the vacuum line to PCV connection but I think I caused a very small leak some where down the vacuum line. I ordered a new one from the dealer. I will change the set up a bit once I get the new vacuum line, maybe a hard line set up with some flare fittings.


The only down side to the oil sep is the small diameter airway compared to the stock set up. I can also hear a pulsating air flow noise from the PCV. I'm assuming the pcv will now not be able to handle the excess pressure from the crank case as well as before, can any one confirm that the excess pressure will end up coming out of the left side valve cover and vent in to the intake duct?

 

I had a broken egr tube, which would make an exhaust leak sound on a cold start, after warming up the exhaust leak was hard to hear. I have drove the car for a few days with out the P0430 coming back on, I will post if the egr tube has fixed the p0430 code.

The new tube was $150 but much different then the old one, much more heavy duty. The egr gasket for the end that bolts to the exhaust was incorrect, I had to cut out some slots in it for the bolts to fit through.

 

P0430 came back on. I installed the 2 magnaflow cats and the code has stayed off and car has passed smog.

 

I have the same problem. Was it hard to replace? Is there a how to posted?

 

It was hard because my egr bolts were all rusted and frozen in place. To make it easier you should use wd-40 every day for a few days before repair. BEWARE if you strip the heads off of any of the egr valve bolts you are in a world of hell due to the small space on the STR I can not stress this enough.


It was alot easier to do if you disconnect the 3 heater hoses and 2 brackets holding them on because I routed my arm along side of the egr tube to disconnect the valve, I don't remember this step in alldata. Also I found it easier to disconnect the egr valve from the intake manifold then it was to just disconnect the tube from the valve due to the space issues.


Call me crazy but I think the standard socket worked better on the valve tomanifold bolts then the metric, I think some of these bolts on the car are standard, maybe some one can confirm this because i'm not sure.

 

If they're rusted, a marginally smaller socket/spanner can be the answer. They were probably metric but rusted. (I can recall years ago on Imperial nuts hunting for the next smaller metric socket. Same reason, just the details swapped.)

 

have you ever got the oil separator to work??

 

yes the oil separator works great. It would be better to have metal line flair fittings due to the amount of vacuum tends to collapse the hose a bit. I believe this design is much better over stock, I think the stock connection between the pcv and vacuum line does not completely seal, you mite be able to hear a very small vacuum leak with the correct tools. After I created my own connection that very small vacuum leak is gone.


After about 300 miles the separator collected about a T spoon of oil.

 

There should be no leak with the stock fittings. They need fixing if there is a leak.

 

new dealer pcv + new dealer vacuum line + poor design = vacuum leak . I have heard this faint leak on the pcv with many jaguars I've owned over the years. People consider it normal. If you take a mechanic stethoscope with the probe off and aim it at the pcv to vacuum connection you will hear what im talking about. That slight hissing noise will be completely gone if you create your own and better connection.

 

Hang on. Older jags did not have modern engine controls and legal requirements. Old ones may have had those leaks (I don't know) but new ones should not have. This is true for all modern cars with PCV, regardless of make. Any leaks will affect emissions controls. There is no evidence on here of this being a comon issue, though a tiny few have had issues and then fixed them.

 

I guess i have a better ear than most. The leak is small enough to not cause a running issue or code and your car will pass smog.


my 05 stype has a new pcv and vacuum tube and the leak
my 03 str has the modified pcv and tube with out the leak.
I will try to record the sound via a mic with a tube pin pointed on the area when I have the cars back.

 

Show the fuel trims, too