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hi, am new here. I bought a problem child 2003 S type R with 65k miles.
I enjoy having some vehicle projects so bought this accepting it'd need a lot of work. Fortunately the engine trans and body are in pretty good condition (or so it appears)
Unfortunately, the electrical gremlins seem to be strong with this one, and I'm not even sure where to start specifically, but I think checking the harness in the front bumper area is a good place.
The codes I pulled are:
b2373 - Reverse parking aid state illumination LED circuit fault
b2622 - Automatic Headlamp Leveling, CAN dip beam message error
c1989 - Parking brake apply and release switches simultaneously activated (I've ordered a new switch)
b1263 - Climate Control Panel mode actuator motor drive circuit fault
P1799 - CAN network timed out to ABS system. CAN network fault.
Car starts right up but has a rough idle - and a brake issue. I replaced the brake booster already, but I'm pretty sure the vacuum line connector @ the intake is the culprit. Will break into that within the week. And someone broke the strut tower bolts off before I got in here.
Those strut tower bolts will always shear off. The threads are exposed underneath and rust badly. I try to soak them for at least a couple of days BEFORE I attempt to remove them. But even then it's still likely to happen.
Yes fix the vacuum fitting on the SC elbow going to the PB booster. Very common.
Do you know about the under SC coolant hose? Another common failure and it's a big job to change but the hose itself is cheap.
Read up on the DCCV as that will likely need replacement unless it might have already been changed?
Do you have all the jaguar manuals?
JTIS for the shop manual.
JEPC/JPART for the parts catalog.
All free on this forum with a bit of work to install.
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.
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Some of those fault codes you retrieved may not be much of a concern. They may be historical, going back who knows how long ago and are no longer active.
For the parking brake fault message, take a look here:
These cars are VERY sensitive to low prestart voltage. If the car had been sitting for any extended period, the battery may have morphed into an unwieldy paperweight. Before going into FullPanicMode™, it may be worth gambling on a new battery.
Those strut tower bolts will always shear off. The threads are exposed underneath and rust badly. I try to soak them for at least a couple of days BEFORE I attempt to remove them. But even then it's still likely to happen.
Yes fix the vacuum fitting on the SC elbow going to the PB booster. Very common.
Do you know about the under SC coolant hose? Another common failure and it's a big job to change but the hose itself is cheap.
Read up on the DCCV as that will likely need replacement unless it might have already been changed?
Do you have all the jaguar manuals?
JTIS for the shop manual.
JEPC/JPART for the parts catalog.
All free on this forum with a bit of work to install.
.
.
.
Thank you, do you happen to know a part number for the SC hose? I'd love to do any preventative maintenance while I'm in there. Found a list of all the hoses https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...e2/#post854184 but which one specifically is the difficult one under the SC?
Also, I'm going to tap a brass fitting into the intake for the brake booster vacuum instead of replacing it with the OEM part. Was suggested by a forum member & I agree with the repair. ( https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ng-fix-105997/ )
Can the DCCV cause electrical havoc?
And I've got virtual machines and the JTIS stuff, it was indeed a PITA to install but I got it x.x
Originally Posted by kr98664
Welcome to the forum.
Some of those fault codes you retrieved may not be much of a concern. They may be historical, going back who knows how long ago and are no longer active.
For the parking brake fault message, take a look here:
These cars are VERY sensitive to low prestart voltage. If the car had been sitting for any extended period, the battery may have morphed into an unwieldy paperweight. Before going into FullPanicMode™, it may be worth gambling on a new battery.
Hi, kr, I put the car on the battery charger the day I bought it, few weeks later it's still sitting on it. I'm only seeing about 12.5v on the charger, so I may need to pick up a heftier charger. This battery looks brand new, but when I get home from work tonight I'll try to see the age of it.
I DID clear the codes after I made note of what they were, and a lot of the faults disappeared, so you may be correct. I have an iCarsoft cr pro scanner coming today (and sometime next week should get an IDS cable) so I will rescan the vehicle and see if anything has changed. Thanks for the info
Original part.
This Valley Pipe Hose. Jaguar part No. AJ 89746, Made in Poland,
Being made up of.
A Small bore section 3/8in single braided EPDM hose length 655mm. A Plastic coupler reducer 3/8 x 3/4in. 10mm bore, and length 40mm. A Short larger bore section 3/4in single braided EPDM hose length 65mm.
It tends to last about 65K ish. Before failing at the large bore section, 3/4" Likely because it is short and subjected to the pressure pulsation from the water pump, before hitting the reducer, 10mm.
Better making up a hose, with a smooth reducer, and increased length of the larger bore hose to damped out the pulsations, or you will just be doing the job again after 65k. In CW rated braded silicon hose.
While I do not subscribe to the high temperature fluctuations, and UV ozone? It is silicon, stronger and smoother flow than the original poorly design hose.
Installed a new battery today. Took note of the old codes, then cleared them and re-read the codes.
Mostly just faults for vehicle speed data missing & failure to communicate with the ABS module.
Thank you bydand! Your right that under SC hose should be at least Silicone. So glad someone does offer an upgrade.
If I had my way that SOB would be a metal line!
I was wondering if a bad ABS sensor could pull down the entire system. Fuse looks fine. I do have an exact replacement module, want to make sure the wiring checks out okay first before I fry that one too or something. I work a lot so hard to find the time.
I get no codes related to specific ABS sensors since the modules not even found.
Followed the flowchart for diagnosing ABS module issues. Found an open connection between each canbus wire to the ABS module itself. Who knows if there's other wires that have a broken connection as well. Now to just locate wherethe failure in the harness is.
From another thread, I found someone say [[color=#222222]When I was a Jag tech we often had CAN issue cause by broken/ corroied wires in the front end harness (behind the front bumper) The twisted pair of CAN wires were from the Engine ECU to the ABS ECU. It is relativly easy to repair/replace these wires, finding the break is the hard part.] https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...18/#post913671
So hopefully that will lead me in the right direction. Will report back.
Finally got into the wiring harness, every thing's looking good. Swapped the spare ABS module in and ABS faults went away. Replaced handbrake switch & now that's working too.
Ordered a new front suspension for it. Decided on repainting the car British Racing Metallic Green.
Works sending me to schooling for working on some new equipment, so unfortunately I'll be gone for 30 days within the next 2 months :/
Michigan winters suck up here so I got a lot of work to do to finish this. oh well
03 STR Repair Thread
