3.0 L, 101K miles; coil packs changed a year ago. Battery cranks engine strongly, but no start...checked shraeder valve for fuel pressure on fuel rail, ok. Tried to start more than dozen times... NO MIL, but found some codes with snap on scanner: P0108 P0104 P0102 and P1388... IMHO none of these should have prevented start but wife had just filed gas and car started, died then crank no start...had car towed home and guess what? Cranked a bit but started right up. Drove 50 miles not a miss, no codes

 

Fuel pump is on its way out. You can try to change the fuel filter but your on "borrowed time". Rather common issue..

 

Welcome to the forum eclauderdale,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to S-Type forum. This is the place to post technical questions about your model.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

Thanks for the posts. Could be intermittent fuel pump. Gotta be spark or fuel. Codes are curious though. Note, when I could not start it, pressing the shraeder valve on fuel rail had significant pressure. Will put a gage on it.


Will run my solus pro on it to try to tease out more info. Since it has separate coil packs, I am tentatively ruling out spark problems.


PCM may also be culprit, but have changed good ones before on other cars and dont see the simultaneous senor signal losses I have seen before on bad PCMs. Not a daily driver so will keep working on it.


Car has been garaged most of its life, grounds are all clean
Thanks again!

 

P0102, P0104, P0108 - forum Search will show these just do not occur so something very weird has happened. Usually that is bad power (battery or connecting cables/grounds).

Last suspect is PCM. They are very very rugged. Unless it's wet. Worth checking.

 

As stated before more than likely fuel pump, especially if it was not run for a period of time.

They're known for seizing/drawing too many amps. Only way to capture psi is hooking up a pressure gauge at the Schrader Valve. You're looking for 40 psi+ with ignition turned onto run/no crank of engine.

Anything under 40 psi, you'll need a new pump.

 

Seems to be lots of leading horses to water these days..........

 

When was the last time you had your finger calibrated? It may no longer be accurate.

I’d definitely try an actual gauge instead.

 

Hello,
Thanks to JAGV8, and abonano for helpful/thoughtful replies. For joycesjag no comment and for kr98664. Sorry I do not carry my fuel pressure gage around in the car.

Here's the progress:
Got the car home and of course it started and ran perfectly. However, I need to diagnose the issue which is difficult with no defect. Do not want to just change the fuel pump without diagnosis, and I have time to diagnose now.

Began to look for obvious defects, (Agree that PCM fail is unusual, but wanted to get eyes on). Found it under the glove box, not where the manual said it was, but while I had the wheels off the ground, found worn tie rod ends lower ball joints, loose bushings on sway bar, and somewhat loose wheel bearings.

So, I replaced all those:
Upper ball joints were still good but "gaiter perished" so I changed them.
Difficulty was bolts/nuts holding upper control arm.

Lower ball joints somewhat difficult to remove due to geometry of
installation; ball joint removal tools were ok…barely adequate but ok.

Wheel hubs were fairly difficult to remove due to corrosion/road grime and 17 years of installation.

Sway bar bushing on driver side was straightforward, but on right side was a bit of an acrobatic exercise.

Replaced the sway bar links again because of "perished gaiters".

Ok, so that done I turned back to the "crank no start" problem...

A little info on me and my experience. Have owned 2.4 liter Mark I sedan (sold) and my 1965 Series 1 E-Type roadster since 1970. Used to work in foreign car garage in 70s and have done all my work, on a number of cars including auto trans rebuilds, engine rebuilds, etc... I am looking for diagnosis help, and have a snap-on solus pro to help diagnosis. Btw, if you have done the rebuild I just did on the front end, you will appreciate the effort, straight forward, but not a trivial job.

For a quarter tank of gas, still ran flawlessly, had wheels aligned then took her home. Then, when I got in to run the gas out of the tank to have a look, again crank, no start. This time the car is in my garage so it’s time to get to work.

Fuel pressure zero, no codes car cranks beautifully, but no start. For kr98664, calibrated finger gives same result as gage...no pressure.

Fuel pump relay does NOT cycle when key is turned to run, so I think its not being powered. Leading me not to want throw a new fuel pump in yet

Only clue so far is solus pro showing 0% fuel quantity. Often PCMs will not run the fuel pump with no fuel quantity showing... Cleared codes after front suspension work and now there are no new or pending codes.

Also, to let you know, the cars fuel quantity gage reads accurately…about 7/8th tank, even though the solus pro says 0%. (Is there a separate output from the pcm that operates the fuel pump relay…separate from the fuel quantity gage output which seems to be working).

Also questioned Passive Anti-theft System as possible culprit but ruled it out since manual says it will disable the fuel pump AND the starter system as well… as stated, starter cranks beautifully.

So far, I am looking at a defect getting power to the fuel pump relay (which I believe is the #6 relay just forward/inboard of battery in the boot). I swapped the #6 and #7 relay (which I think is the brake interlock relay) and still got no relay cycling when turning ignition to run for the #6 relay.
My thoughts run from the ignition switch, PCM, and wiring, although these are all pretty uncommon.

Had to stop working so that’s it for now. Know this is a lot to read, but would appreciate any thoughtful comments.

 

I wouldn't worry about the 0% reading from the Solus Pro.

Never had much luck using that scanner on Jaguar's.

First, check the fuse for the fuel pump (if blown, change) then pull the electrical connector on the fuel pump and check for at least 10.5V w/ ignition on.

If nothing...

You can put a jumper in the relay socket to get 12V to the fuel pump. Recheck voltage. Again, look for 10.5V

If you get 10.5V at the connector for either test above your fuel pump is toast requiring a replacement. Be sure to change out fuel filter too.

Finally, you might have configured a "death blow" to your fuel pump by running the tank empty.

BTW - never allow these cars to go below a 1/2 tank. The gas keeps these pumps cool. They don't like running on "petrol fumes".

I'm still sticking with a failed fuel pump.

 

Thanks again to abonano......
First corrections to my earlier post. I read that the PATS would disable the starter and fuel pump relay together, but another source says PATS error codes 16 and above could result in good starter operation but no fuel pump relay or injectors. So, I looked again at the PATS and it gives the 3 sec LED confirming it is not disabling the starter and has good reply to challenge from instrument pack... PATS not the culprit.

Having said that, wish I could find good electrical diagrams for my older L55853 S-type. Have been working from downloaded manuals and Jaguar Technical guide which have significant errors. Some may be LHD vs RHD issues.. If anyone knows where, would appreciate it.

Errors I found... PCM on Passenger side, not driver side.

PATS info just noted is that good starter operation does not rule out PATS.

Jaguar Tech guide lists rear power distribution panel relay 6 as fuel, but it is gearshift interlock. Relay 7 is for fuel pump relay in my car.

Like I said I could not find good electrical diagrams for my early 2000 car. The diagrams I did find for 2001 car show fuel control relay pin 2 as ground and pin 1 as ignition switch enabled hot for the relay, but in my car for both relays 6 and 7 they are the opposite, pin 1 is ground and pin 2 is switched hot lead for the relay solenoids.

This made trouble shooting difficult, (could not follow pinpoint tests), however after I traced wires, that confirmed good power to and from the fuel pump relay, and good grounds, had to be the fuel pump (as abonano predicted)

After that, its a question of replacing the pump only, aftermarket fuel pump or obscenely expensive Jaguar pump. I will go with Delphi pump. Guess the good news is that the Lincoln LS similarities helps for some parts...

May rebuild the old pump as backup since individual pump seems available and inexpensive... will look at it later.

Should get it back together tomorrow...will update, thanks again...

 

I had a crank and no start fault with My 2000 S-type. I found the fuel pump fuse in the truck had blown. The fuel pump had quit.
I purchased a replacement pump for $20 and accessed the tank under the back seat.
The job took about two hours and was a bit of a puzzle to reassemble. An inline fuel filter is inside the tank too. I replace that as well.

The problem was repaired.

I recommend buying the $90 fuel pump assembly complete instead of the $20 pump part as this would make the repair simpler and take about an hour less time.

 

It might be worthwhile to test the voltage generated by the battery (12.4v - 12.6v).

Simply charging the battery may not be enough. It may turn the engine over fine, but still be a problem.

 

thanks,
My S Type is running fine again. Thanks for all the replies.
The biggest problem I found is with technical manuals. I bought online versions that covered my year, but not the right Production date. Mine is early 2000... L55853 the data was for later cars of the same year...
Big problem (explained in earlier post) was fuel pump relay and wiring associated with it were wrong in all the tech data I found Leading me to assume power was not available to the pump relay... Had to trace wires to find power was good and pump bad...
dont like to change parts without diagnosing the problem...

Will note that the filter in the pump assembly is just a screen for big debris, and the actual fuel filter is in the driver side wheel well.
Thanks to all