Hello,

2000 v6 S-type.

5R55N - removed 11 securing bolts + 4 torque convertor nuts. Starter motor, prop-shaft + exhausts.

Cannot detach transmission from engine.

Is there a correct method of detaching off dowels - i.e. with a chisel or small bottle jack?

Thanks,

 

Here are the instructions from On demand. Hope it helps.

1. Place selector lever in "N" position. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Remove drive shaft. See DRIVE SHAFT . On 3.0L V6, remove starter motor. On 4.0L V8, disconnect Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) connector. On all models, remove heat shields.
2. Disconnect oxygen sensor connector block. Remove torque converter rubber access cover. Rotate torque converter and remove 4 torque converter nuts.
3. Detach oil cooler tubes from oil pan. Detach oil cooler tubes bracket from automatic transmission. Allow fluid to drain into a suitable container. Remove gear selector cable bracket retaining bolts and disconnect gear selector cable.

WARNING: Secure transmission to hi-lift transmission jack with a safety chain.
Failure to follow this instruction can result in personal injury and damage to transmission.

5. Loosen retaining nut and disconnect transmission body electrical connector. Disconnect Intermediate Shaft Speed (ISS) sensor and Turbine Shaft Speed (TSS) sensor connectors. Detach wiring harness from transmission housing.
6. On 3.0L V6 models, remove 4 upper transmission housing bolts and then remove 4 lower transmission housing bolts. On 4.0L V8 models, remove 8 upper transmission housing bolts, and then remove 8 lower transmission housing bolts.

CAUTION: DO NOT allow torque converter drop out of transmission. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury and damage to torque converter.

7. On all models, using transmission jack, lower transmission from vehicle

 

If you are SURE that all the bell housing fasteners are removed then soak the steel locator dowels with penetrating oil and drive small wedges near the dowels
(dis-similar metal corrosion will seize the locators on a lot of gearboxes).
Start with a thin wedge and move to thicker ones next to the thin until something 'gives'.
Keep a prybar on the torque converter to keep it in the bell housing when you move the gearbox rearward.

'Wedging' the bell housing with a fastener still in place will result in a broken bell housing!!!!!!!

bob gauff

 

Thanks for your replies,

Well JTIS diagram shows 8 bolts, 4 upper, 4 lower for 3.0 - THIS IS WRONG. Being thorough with the fingers, I discovered 11 bolts - 3 (or 4) of which screw from engine side into bell-housing - all bolts removed without having to lower unit.

So 11 bolts - I hoped someone can verify this.

Should we support the engine to help break the two apart - where are the dowels located roughly?

Thanks,

 

You can also take a rubber mallet to those locating pins. Ensure you secure the transmission to a transmission jack before disengagement from the engine - Thanks!

 

The last pic of tdc's thread shows the top of the bellhousing, might be helpful?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ion-faq-64612/

 

Thanks,

v8 slightly different arrangement. Would like to know exactly where to hit with mallet.

 

Both engines have the same 5R55N trans - the picture should be beneficial. Double check to ensure you have all bolts removed.

 

It's off!

Tapped with a wood-chisel slowly working the circumference - one of the dowels shows reaction with the steel.

I noticed there's a pink paint mark next to one of the torque convertor studs and a mark on the back of the flywheel - any significance with alignment at factory???

How do I remove the convertor?

Thanks.

 

Good deal - I believe the converter should slide off the input shaft (double check all bolts are loosened off the flywheel) - I believe the marks you are refeering to are allignment marks - best to preserve those marks and reallign when putting the trans back together...

 

Abonano,

Have you ever rebuilt the 5R55N, could you point me in direction of where to look for failures?

We had p0733 3rd gear ratio code from the Jaguar. I'd previously replaced the 4-3 prestroke spring and continuity checks reveal solenoid, sensors are within resistance values - this didn't resolve driving issue.

Currently on a tight budget, we're going to dismantle ourselves following an ATG repair manual....

Thanks

 

Leonard85 - No, I haven't rebuilt the 5R55N trans personally but was very involved with the shop, who rebuilt my unit.

From reading on the forum the 4-3 prestroke spring breaking is a very common fault, even after replacing. (you might get in there and find the spring broken yet again)

Did you replace the 4-3 prestroke with a Sonax spring unit?

I have heard (and read) the Sonax springs are far superior.

For peace of mind I would certainly go with replacing the 4-3 prestroke spring again but with a Sonax unit since you are showing that dreaded P0733 and if your going for the gusto - replace the other springs in the valve body with Sonax units.

I have also heard the solenoid pack is prone to issues/failure as well but yours seem to check out - might be a good investment to get a rebuilt unit - since your in there already AND... providing the rest of the trans checks out good (clear fluid - no debris/metal shavings)

Check this out as these might help you... Thanks!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ild-faq-48240/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...-6-them-67759/

 

Thanks,

Yes it was a Sonnax aftermarket. Appears it's still currently OK.

We're going on the assumption the clutch-material and seals requires replacement - there's been an ever increasing gear delay from P---->D, shudder from 1st gear and very high revs between gear changes.

I was told by a transmission specialist, while he was test-driving the vehicle, that the seals will eventually fall into pan causing a complete loss of drive.

Not convinced it's the solenoids after electrical tests.