Riddle me this, leaper lovers:

I started my car this morning, (2000 S-Type 4.0 Sport) and once it lit up, every system in the car seemed to fail in a massive cascade event:

Traction Control Failure (light & Warning Message)
Engine Failsafe Mode (Warning Message)
Oil Light On
Check Engine Light On
ABS light on
Brake light on
All gauges inoperable and at zero
Cruise disengaged
electric trunk release inoperable

On my 10 mile drive to work the gauges functioned intermittently and the lights and system warnings were blinking on and off at irregular intervals. As for actual performance during the drive, the traction control was definitely off and the engine/trans was definitely NOT in limp mode, as full engine performance was available. (I punched it at a stoplight, lighting up the tires and ergo, confirming both of the above)

I have an OBD2 code reader back home and will investigate when (should I say "if") I get back home this evening. I was hoping that perhaps this might sound familiar to someone who might point me in the right direction for diagnostics.

My initial thought was "battery," but I have full and fast cranking power. I'll get a system voltage read from the OBD2 later.

Anyone ever have something like this happen before?

Fred Marks
2000 S-Type 4.0 Black 111K miles
2007 X-Type 3.0 White 73K miles

 

Don't rule out your battery just yet. Failing batteries continue to be able to start the car for days or weeks or longer (especially in mild weather)....

 

#1 suspect - battery

Check its voltage after non-use overnight (and without starting the engine of course else you're measuring alternator not battery) as it'll have been recharged (hopefully) on ride home.

 

Battery.

Age doesn't mean much nor does decent cranking speed.

 

Will get the meter on that batter as soon as I get home. LOL, just drove over to Subway for lunch and the cascade fail continues, now A/C out, windows and locks and probably more things I havent even realized yet.

The Curse of Coventry has awoken and mischief is afoot!

 

If you can check each battery cell....go to most any auto parts store and get a hydrometer.
That will give you the condition of each cell whether it's good or failing, bet one or more is dying...

 

Did you check your grounds?

 

Yup, and battery terminals.

Maybe water in the trunk too.

 

Mikey you got it. Went to the trunk to check the battery and well, sh*t, I've got four inches of water in the spare well. Now, after draining, what's the best way to dry out the works with the greatest likelihood of saving the components? First thing I did was isolate the battery. ...

 

I kept the trunk lid open and aimed a fan at the black boxes for about 24 hrs.

 

Under the tire is a plastic plug pull it and leave it out it will not be a problem. Also I am attaching a little information on what I found on my car.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Gus, thanks for the info on where they leak. I've got a couple of tubes of clear silicone sealer I will put to good use now.

I think I will go with Mikey's advice and put a fan in the trunk for a day or two, then WD-40 the harnesses and connectors.

This is probably what caused the CATS system fault I was having earlier on. When I checked the CATS box thought there was no water, but there was evidence of prior wetting.

 

This is a link for the electrical wiring oneline for your car it has the locations of the control modules for the car.

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...01999.25en.pdf

 

[QUOTE=Exdamyankee;1366581]Gus, thanks for the info on where they leak. I've got a couple of tubes of clear silicone sealer I will put to good use now.

I think I will go with Mikey's advice and put a fan in the trunk for a day or two, then WD-40 the harnesses and connectors.

QUOTE]


I would not spray any WD anything on this electrical system. There are better sprays and cleansers to remove contaminates than WD. I would also used very low pressure compressed air to make sure the H2O is gone. A reputable company is CRC Industries. They specialize in Auto and Marine (water). I would call them and ask what will work to get rid of the corrosion and protect the wiring for later. I use their products on a saltwater boat and have never had any problems.

 

The WD in WD40 is for water displacement, specifically electrical connections. Although a poor choice for most other applications, it's the best I've seen for it's intended purpose.

 

I don't disagree. I would use air and then a corrosion spray first. There are also waterproof sealers that don't compromise the sensitive wiring too. If a circuit board is corrupted, not much you can do except buy a new one.

 

Not to stir up a #$%@storm, but I'd be leery of using WD40 on any system with sensitive electronics. Even though it is advertised as being a water displacement product, it leaves behind too much residue that can lead to problems down the road.

I am an electronics tech in commercial aviation, and my employer has specifically banned the stuff from the premises. We can't even have it for non-aviation purposes, such as shop equipment, door hinges, salad dressing, etc. The reasoning is there is too much risk of somebody inadvertently using it where it is banned. Also, keep in mind WD40 was formulated back in the 1950s, when present-day electronics were still just a dream.

WD40 is a combination product designed for lubrication and water displacement. With two purposes, it's like a spork, which is neither a good spoon nor a good fork. Personally, I prefer separate dedicated products for an intended purpose, whether it's dining or working on vehicles.

For drying wet connectors, I prefer good old compressed air, followed by isopropyl alcohol to wick out any remaining traces of moisture. Clean it a second time with compressed air, and finish with a good quality electronic cleaner, giving that time to air dry. Voila, you've got a dry, clean connector with no residue.

 

Good post, thank you.

 

Thanks. In defense of the stuff, I do keep a small spray can in my Jeep. Storage space is at a premium, so a dual purpose product makes sense for emergency use in the boonies, mainly in case I need to free a rusty fastener or am stranded with wet ignition. Keep in mind it's a 1948 Jeep, with a 1948 ignition system. Fortunately I haven't had to use the WD40 yet, but if I do, I'd still give the system a thorough cleaning upon my return.

 

I've found that WD40 sucks as a salad dressing all by itself. However, if I mix a little Thousand Island with it, my garden salad sure goes down the hatch quite easily....