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Have you renewed your suspension? It's all going to be worn by now...
My XJR is only around 42k miles, but since 2008 has only been driving on the lousy london roads, and when I bought it, all the bushes, stabilisers and arms etc needed to be changed
Ok I am sold But you have the S type right? Is it lighter than the XJR X350? I will try to get the R1, but on their website, they do not seem to ship to UK
Cambo - which pads do you recommend? I do not hear good things about the EBC, and especially now with me experience with their rotors, I do not want to put anything on with their name. How are the R1 pads ?
Ok I am sold But you have the S type right? Is it lighter than the XJR X350? I will try to get the R1, but on their website, they do not seem to ship to UK
Originally Posted by XJRLondon2004
Cambo - which pads do you recommend? I do not hear good things about the EBC, and especially now with me experience with their rotors, I do not want to put anything on with their name. How are the R1 pads ?
Check the link in the other thread that I posted before, go to the R1 store on ebay.com, will ship worldwide via the Global Shipping Program, the shipping is quite cheap that way. The R1 website has ridiculous shipping costs to outside of the US.
I have an XJR. It's probably lighter than the STR. Mine weighed in at 1760kg, without me in it, or the spare/jack/tools and 1/4 tank of fuel.
I have EBC Yellowstuff pads on the XJR with the R1 rotors. They have been a good combination from my point of view. I also had EBC Redstuff on my old X-Type, as well as on my current Freelander 2. I am happy with EBC pads, primarily because of the low dust, but the performance has also been good. The Yellows were good on the track, and are fine on the street.
I also had a bad experience with EBC rotors on my old X-Type, and would never buy rotors from EBC again. The finish was poor and the bells/vanes were plain steel which rusted. The R1 (and Centric, Stoptech, brakeperformance) have the black coating which is excellent.
I don't have any experience with the R1 pads. Others have used them, but I don't recall anyone having used them on a racetrack. They will probably be fine for street use.
I have just spent a track day in Auckland NZ at Hampton Downs circuit - I did it with road pads rather than race pads - but I have some race pads on order - I now need new front rotors - I see the R1 rotor getting praise and so I have looked to acquire some - the front rotors per this site say that they are 365mm however the R1 rotors (they tell me) are only 355mm.
Your 2003 X350 XJR will have the Brembo package on it, the front rotor are definitely 365mm. It's the later models 2006 onwards that have 355mm rotors, and they are totally different to the Brembo setup, and will not fit.
Or it could be that if you select 2003 it's picking the X308 XJR (because in the US, the X308 was sold until 2003MY), which again are different rotors.
I don't know which ones you looked at but look for 2004 model S-Type R or XJR rotors, they will be the right ones with 365mm front, 330mm rear.
Here are the ones from the R1 eBay store, with the "cheaper" shipping to NZ...
I was looking to buy an original Brembo part pad which is available and I assume was never made by Jaguar. Still a bit on the pricey side on Ebay but I am now reluctant to use anything else.
The problem is I have had very bad rotor run out using the R1 Concepts rotors but unfortunately with a pad (English made) that seems to be too hard for the rotor which I sourced from Rimmer Brothers UK - an excellent parts supplier but the combo of that pad and rotor was disastrous!
I will now be on the 3rd machining..I assume the pads being too hard and causing the run out but cannot be sure. Maybe a higher friction pad? How can I tell as most of them claim they are high friction and hence the need to try a genuine Brembo pad. Another issue I can see is they are not Brembo rotors anymore and I cannot be certain that combination will be correct as well??
So it might be my time for new rotors. They're original 60K+ miles smooth as hell and within spec. I'm using Akebono pads so very clean and kind on rotors but I probably do get buildup spots which accounts for the pulsation at times.
I happen to think that given driving conditions this is just unavoidable even with a decent bed in procedure.
That's why Hawk pads recommended for cleaning the deposits off was so appealing but ... AFAIK they don't make them for the fronts! Yeah they sorta list something but it's clearly wrong.
Question then ... for the Brembos are these calipers really the only one to use this pad's dimensions other than thickness? I wonder ????
Removing the rotors just to clean them periodically is NOT going happen in this household. But slipping a set of cleaning pads could work.
I'm putting some EBC yellowstuff pads in another car this spring and they come with a built on abrasive now. They do make those for the STR but that's only good for one shot!
When I first got this car rotor costs were outrageous. Now Walmart markets the correct Centrics for $41!
So it might be my time for new rotors. They're original 60K+ miles smooth as hell and within spec. I'm using Akebono pads so very clean and kind on rotors but I probably do get buildup spots which accounts for the pulsation at times.
I happen to think that given driving conditions this is just unavoidable even with a decent bed in procedure.
That's why Hawk pads recommended for cleaning the deposits off was so appealing but ... AFAIK they don't make them for the fronts! Yeah they sorta list something but it's clearly wrong.
Question then ... for the Brembos are these calipers really the only one to use this pad's dimensions other than thickness? I wonder ????
Removing the rotors just to clean them periodically is NOT going happen in this household. But slipping a set of cleaning pads could work.
I'm putting some EBC yellowstuff pads in another car this spring and they come with a built on abrasive now. They do make those for the STR but that's only good for one shot!
When I first got this car rotor costs were outrageous. Now Walmart markets the correct Centrics for $41!
But centric rotors have no corrosion protection for the hubs that I can see?
Not happy about that ...
OK if you dig you can find that they use this: E-COATING
Well that link is full of crap. My rotors arrived today and they ARE not coated with the black anti corrosion protection!
Damn! So now I need to paint them I guess or send them back?
Made in China. I suppose most are now.
My error but the website is still sneaky as it doesn't show a 125 series for this car but they DO exist versus the 121 series which are not coated. Arg!
I was looking to buy an original Brembo part pad which is available and I assume was never made by Jaguar. Still a bit on the pricey side on Ebay but I am now reluctant to use anything else.
The problem is I have had very bad rotor run out using the R1 Concepts rotors but unfortunately with a pad (English made) that seems to be too hard for the rotor which I sourced from Rimmer Brothers UK - an excellent parts supplier but the combo of that pad and rotor was disastrous!
I will now be on the 3rd machining..I assume the pads being too hard and causing the run out but cannot be sure. Maybe a higher friction pad? How can I tell as most of them claim they are high friction and hence the need to try a genuine Brembo pad. Another issue I can see is they are not Brembo rotors anymore and I cannot be certain that combination will be correct as well??
Here Is the Rimmer Brothers link: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID300004
I finally removed the 'standard' spec TRW front pads I had installed in combination with the R1 Concept (slotted) rotors I ordered; from California I think. After a few smooth months of driving I started to get very annoying steering wheel shudder. Very odd and as per photo these TRW pads had really had very little use. So lightly machined the rotors again and tried another brand - this time EBC Red Stuff pads. Seemed okay for a couple of weeks but the wheel shudder is back..Only light now but still annoying and if last time is anything to go by it may get worse.
Not sure if it just build up or if the pads are causing run out/warping on the rotors? These mechanics I used never bothered to measure if any runout; just machine and back in..
The vehicle has low kms and this was my first rotor replacement. This was never an issue of course with the factory original rotors and pads.
Dont know if these R1 rotors will take any more machining as I did not manage to measure the front rotors to see if they were on the '30mm worn brake discard thickness'.
So not sure what to do from here? There seems to be no rotors to buy in Australia that are locally stocked/off the shelf, everything needs to be ordered from OS. Unless of course if I go to the local dealers! Its been expensive just ordering 2 lots of brake pad sets..We are not as lucky as you lads in the USA with lots of local options available.
Any input welcome!
Thanks for the reply Cambo. You are lucky. That's a pretty good run.
Options I suppose are to try another rotor if I could get one cheap enough locally (preferably European or US made) or try another pad. Some of the higher quality pads seem to be dearer than some of the rotors! Hard to find a 365mm rotor locally. Will try the mechanic first see if they have any answers.
New plain Centric rotors and Akebono pads going on. STR
So today I start this project and I've just pulled out the pads on the front right.
These are the original rotors and a set of Akebono pads that I put in @ about 15K miles? I'm at the 65K mark now and although the pads aren't completely gone they were close enough on the inner side of this caliper and the rotor is still within spec but I decided all new around means I'll be OK for a long time.
But ... as you can see from the photo the the wear is substantially uneven on the inner side of the caliper. I've been very good about flushing the brake fluid completely and did it again just about a year ago so I'm not sure I beleive there's an issue with the caliper. I haven't seen the pads on the LH side front just yet but here's a comparison photo of the two pads. It's easy to see how uneven they are.
What do folks think, time to rebuild the caliper or is this typical for these calipers on this car?
Make sure you thoroughly clean and lubricate the areas of the caliper that hold the pad in place as the pads to need to be able to slide freely to produce even wear.
Make sure you thoroughly clean and lubricate the areas of the caliper that hold the pad in place as the pads to need to be able to slide freely to produce even wear.
That got done last time, a while ago now, but I've not seen this uneven wear on my other cars with opposing 4 pot calipers? I've seen it on the one sided sliding pin type calipers.
Does anyone see a need to to put new stud clips on to hold the rotor in place before the wheels clamp it securely to the hub. I guess it's a nicety for when you are removing wheels so that the contact between the rotor and the hub isn't disturbed and grit or rust gets in?
I plan on using that PCB grease between the rotor and hub as well after a good cleanup of the hub.
This is the jag part # C2C33384010 About $3.50 each plus shipping.
I see these on Fords as well there must be a xref for that? Can't find anything yet.
Well the wear pattern on the front left is identical so I'm thinking this is just how they wear.
The rust behind the rotors and on the hub is pretty awful and I don't drive this car in the snow at all! So getting that nicely cleaned up should reduce the run out rotation of the rotors and less pulsing I'm guessing.
Shop around on eBay uk and the independent Jaguar parts suppliers.
In the last 12 months I've bought front and rear Mintex discs and pads for sweetshop money.
To give you an idea of the kind of possible savings, I am buying a pair of front Bilstien B4 shock absorbers for my V6 petrol for £120 delivered.
Check out the independents or established eBay motorfactors is my advice.
Does anyone see a need to to put new stud clips on to hold the rotor in place before the wheels clamp it securely to the hub. I guess it's a nicety for when you are removing wheels so that the contact between the rotor and the hub isn't disturbed and grit or rust gets in?
I plan on using that PCB grease between the rotor and hub as well after a good cleanup of the hub.
This is the jag part # C2C33384010 About $3.50 each plus shipping.
I see these on Fords as well there must be a xref for that? Can't find anything yet.
Well the wear pattern on the front left is identical so I'm thinking this is just how they wear.
The rust behind the rotors and on the hub is pretty awful and I don't drive this car in the snow at all! So getting that nicely cleaned up should reduce the run out rotation of the rotors and less pulsing I'm guessing.
Well the mopar ones arrived and while the ID is great the OD is too big. So either I grind them down a bit , use the old ones, get the JAG EOM ones or use none at all.
I have recently been looking at new disks due to warped and found it hard work with site contradicting one another. Eventually I have gone with EBC ultimax and yellow stuff up front and Brembo pads rear.