Delay going into drive from neutral and reverse
I have a 2002 S-type Sport with the 4.0L V8 and, I assume, a Ford automatic 5-speed transmission. When I back up and shift from Reverse to Drive, there's a momentary delay and a "thump" when Drive engages. Same thing going from Neutral to Drive, only less noticeable. The car drives well otherwise.
Anyone else experienced this and found a solution?
Anyone else experienced this and found a solution?
I remember performing a series of procedures for the 5R55N for a customer complaint of delayed engagement.
I can't find it now. It was NOT a TSB, just an info email.
The procedure was about letting it idle and then shifting into certain gears for a certain period of time and repeating several more steps.
That was more than 15 years ago so my memory is 'foggy' about the exact method.
We DID perform PCM re-configurations for gearbox 'gitches'.
TSB S307-07 was one of the one's I remember.
I can't find it now. It was NOT a TSB, just an info email.
The procedure was about letting it idle and then shifting into certain gears for a certain period of time and repeating several more steps.
That was more than 15 years ago so my memory is 'foggy' about the exact method.
We DID perform PCM re-configurations for gearbox 'gitches'.
TSB S307-07 was one of the one's I remember.
Last edited by motorcarman; Dec 2, 2021 at 08:42 AM.
I have a 2002 S-type Sport with the 4.0L V8 and, I assume, a Ford automatic 5-speed transmission. When I back up and shift from Reverse to Drive, there's a momentary delay and a "thump" when Drive engages. Same thing going from Neutral to Drive, only less noticeable. The car drives well otherwise.
Anyone else experienced this and found a solution?
Anyone else experienced this and found a solution?
Drive car until normal operating temperature - drive the car as you need to ensure the trans temp is warmed up as well.
With car stationary with your foot firm on the brake pedal throughout...
Shift from. P TO R, R to N, N to D, then over to each gear on the left side of the gate (I recon, 2, 3, 4 then back to D)
D to N, N to R and R to P then repeat 5 times.
Also R to D, D to R, P to D and D to P.
The trick is to wait 10 seconds after each shift noted above.
This will take 10 - 15 minutes.
You will teach the trans computer to allow faster shifts between gears.
Remember, 10 seconds between each one!!!
Good Luck
UPDATE: Followed the instructions and shifted between the various gears many times, allowing 10 seconds in each gear. Shift delay is no better, but also no worse. Since the transmission shifts well otherwise, I'll just have to suck it up. Thanks for the suggestions, guys.
I believe this model uses the ZF 5 speed automatic which has a known problem with the pressure regulator valve. There are upgrade kits available from TransGo. Fortunately, installation does not require that the transmission be removed.
https://transgo.com/product-details/...ulator-repair/
https://transgo.com/product-details/...ulator-repair/
It doesn't.
As posted already it's the 5R55N.
As posted already it's the 5R55N.
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Does it shift through the J gate all the way into the 4 3 2 gears? Sometimes the selector cable can be slightly out of alignment and it can take a moment for drive to engage. This can be exagerated when the car rolls slightly from lifting off the brake or accelerating.
Yes, it shifts properly through all of the J-Gate 4-3-2 gears. When I start the car cold and back out of my driveway then shift into drive there is a noticeable delay (about 3 seconds) before it engages with a thump. This becomes less noticeable as the car warms up, but is still there to a lesser degree. Part of it, I'm sure, is that the car is idling higher than normal when cold, but I'm concerned that I may be overlooking a potential transmission problem that should be addressed sooner rather than later. In all other respects, the car seems to drive and shift normally in both regular and Sport modes.
Back in my (ford) tuning days I recall that in the tune there is a commanded shift time and commanded shift pressure. User makes the shift and the computer is constantly trying to adjust time and pressure to achieve the commanded engagement spec. There is also a clamp pressure after the shift as well as a system wide "global pressure" (base).
IMO the clue here is the "thump when Drive engages". That's not commanded and so if it doesn't diminish w/use... you have a physical problem.
My first thought is low fluid level, a filter that's plugged, or (not likely) the seal between it and the valve body. Filling a pump adequately and on time is step #1.
My second thought is debris in the valve body or for some other reason the valves not moving quick enough. I suspect this and the computer is raising the pressure to try to achieve the commanded. Either the fluid is late to the party and suddenly moves the valve -or- the valve is requiring abnormally high pressure to move and then BANG it moves slamming the clutches together and you feel the thump.
IMO... I'd either ignore it until it doesn't work anymore and just replace the trans (there are usually "limp home" countermeasures built in) -or- take it to a trans shop now while its salvageable. IMO.. assuming your fluid level is ok, either way you have a physical repair in the future.
IMO the clue here is the "thump when Drive engages". That's not commanded and so if it doesn't diminish w/use... you have a physical problem.
My first thought is low fluid level, a filter that's plugged, or (not likely) the seal between it and the valve body. Filling a pump adequately and on time is step #1.
My second thought is debris in the valve body or for some other reason the valves not moving quick enough. I suspect this and the computer is raising the pressure to try to achieve the commanded. Either the fluid is late to the party and suddenly moves the valve -or- the valve is requiring abnormally high pressure to move and then BANG it moves slamming the clutches together and you feel the thump.
IMO... I'd either ignore it until it doesn't work anymore and just replace the trans (there are usually "limp home" countermeasures built in) -or- take it to a trans shop now while its salvageable. IMO.. assuming your fluid level is ok, either way you have a physical repair in the future.
Last edited by wydopnthrtl; Jan 2, 2022 at 06:48 AM.
There are threads about the 5R55N, with sources of parts, typical faults, etc.
https://www.sonnax.com/home may help.
https://www.sonnax.com/home may help.

As you had already suggested, make sure the fluid level is correct. Personally, I'd gamble on a new filter, too. Take care of those basics and see if that helps.
Something to consider is the logistics of checking the fluid level. If you don't have a lift, it's quite the challenge to get the car high enough on 4 jack stands so you can get underneath. It's a simple task for a shop with a lift. Just be careful, though. Some transmission shops have a canned diagnosis that a full rebuild is required for practically any fault. I hate to disparage the pros, but that is how some transmission shops operate, unfortunately, so check around
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