Sorry for the title but lets see if I can make it clearer here.
I have just done this on my 2001/2002 4.0L V8
Jaguar Premium Stereo with AMP under shelf and 6 disc changer in the boot, changer has a 12 pin plug, not the Ai-Net plug.

I finally found a simple and working solution to putting an AUX-IN to my S-Type. All I wanted to do was have Planet Rock blasting out my speakers as and when I wanted it, but with out the expense and hassle of replacing the stock head unit and probably custom making a new surround because nobody does one that looks nice enough, plus I think a more modern double din unit would look out of place.

So really all I wanted was an AUX-IN socket.
AND I FINALLY FOUND IT.

Must say a big THANK YOU to EDDIEV on Taurus Car Club of America forum where I found this info.
The other great thing about having the AUX-IN socket this way is the lack of any special skills or tools required, and the bonus is, if like me you are playing your tunes or listening to DAB through your mobile phone, then you get an in-coming call, it cuts the radio and you have hands-free conversation.
But it is not true hands free calling, so remember that please.
The only down-side if there is one is that you cannot use the cd changer for music anymore, but no great loss in my world.

To the details then.
In my car I have the Jaguar Premium Sound with the Clarion 6 disc changer in the boot. This changer has the 12 pin plug going into the side of it. THIS IS NOT THE Ai-NET set-up that is in the later models.
All the work is done behind the head unit in the dash to just the changer plug.

Here's the diagrams:



When you've done this, just burn an 80 minute cd with nothing but silence on it, put it into the changer and away you go.
If for any reason you get some ignition interferance, you can quite easily double up the earth lead and send it to the chassis of the car, also behind the head unit.

Hope this helps in the quest for the elusive AUX-IN problems.

 

Dear Stevep,

Thank you very much for your post with the relevant information. In fact, I had been searching for this information about the CD Changer connector pins for a long time without success. Now that I have this data, I believe I can add an external audio input and the latest Bluetooth version to my 23-year-old car, while keeping the original hardware.

I just have three questions:

1. The twelve-pin connectors you show in the diagram—does the green female connector go into the back of the radio rack, or is it the black female connector that comes with some cables? It's important for me to correctly identify the pin numbers.
   
2. After cutting the cables going to pins 7 and 8, I understand that I should connect the L/R analog audio signal coming from the Bluetooth audio converter to these pins. Is this correct, or am I misunderstanding something?
   
3. At the end of your post, you mention the necessity to play a CD with no content. I don't fully understand why this is necessary, because if we cut the cables going to pins 7 and 8 (which I understand are for the CD audio input), the CD audio signal will never reach the amplifier. Instead, the new audio signal from the Bluetooth adapter will be sent to the amplifier and speakers. I understand that perhaps playing a CD is required to activate certain functions that ensure the Bluetooth signal is amplified and finally heard through the speakers. Could you help me understand this part better before I make any modifications?
   

Sorry to bother you and other members with what might seem like obvious questions. I would really appreciate your support, or any assistance from other forum members.

Thank you in advance!

 

Shame the OP hasn't come back to clarify the wiring. From the picture you cut the wires to pins 7 & 8 and leave those wires/pins unused. The aux in is connected to the wires that go to pins 1 & 2 - from the image the signal from the aux in goes down the wires labelled "console" - these look like they go to the amplifier/head unit.

The blank CD is just to make the CD player work - you can use any CD for this, but I assume the OP suggests blank to avoid any interference perhaps.

Hopefully the OP will clarify or maybe it should be obvious to you now if you look at the plugs again.

 

The OP is still around. Maybe send him a PM?
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Dear Dibbit and Cubairth1.
Thank you so much for your response; your support is greatly appreciated. I will try to test this solution to provide my early S-type with an analog aux input and Bluetooth connectivity. As soon as I can get some final results, I will prepare another post with pictures and information for anyone else who might be interested in the same modification.

Best regards,